JJC Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Does anyone have experience with electric fuel pumps? As in, are they reliable, which one to buy, are they easy to fit, which ones go under the bonnet, that kind of thing. I'm at the point of reassembling the fuel system on the 4. Unfortunately the original pump is on daughter's 2 because hers started to leak and despite several attempts with a rebuild kit I couldn't stop it weeping from the top cover. So in essence my question is should I try with a new kit to rebuild the weeping pump or go electric and if so which one? I'm not bothered about originality. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GoGuy Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Does anyone have experience with electric fuel pumps? As in, are they reliable, which one to buy, are they easy to fit, which ones go under the bonnet, that kind of thing. I'm at the point of reassembling the fuel system on the 4. Unfortunately the original pump is on daughter's 2 because hers started to leak and despite several attempts with a rebuild kit I couldn't stop it weeping from the top cover. So in essence my question is should I try with a new kit to rebuild the weeping pump or go electric and if so which one? I'm not bothered about originality. JJC Hi JJC I have used Facet Solid State pumps on several TR's with 100% success, though these have been the cube shaped ones, but no reason to believe that the newer pattern would be any problem. They need to be mounted below the fuel level, so in the corner of the spare wheel well is ideal.Your carbs.on a 4, either Stroms. or SUs, need 2.5ppsi, so include a pressure regulator in the feed line. If you prefer an underbonnet fitment, then a Facet Interruptor pump will be needed, but these are more expensive. The rear fitment also has the advantage that a concealed cut-off switch can be positioned in the boot,thus providing a degree of security. Regards GoGuy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 Fitted one of these last year on inner n/s wing, easily plumbed as inlet/outlet are adjustable: http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=29 Fit one of these beside it in case of shunt: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/INERTIA-SWITCH-CRASH-FUEL-CUT-OFF-DEVICE-/200481831488?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eada5fa40 Cheaper from a Landrover dealer on ebay, but you need the jack for connecting the wiring, or go to the breakers yard and buy the whole unit..... No problems with lack of fuel at carbs since and a happy customer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 Thanks for replies, very helpful. Has anyone experience of the Moss replacement mechanical pumps? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmr Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 I bought a replacement mechanical pump from Moss only a few weeks ago. Fitting was simple and quick. No problems. I now have a leak-free TR. James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Moss replacement pump has no hand primer (well, the one I bought hasn't). I have used the Moss kit to replace valves and diaphragm in my old (hand primer) pump with complete success - but you may need to tweak the screws on the diaphragm cover after a few miles, as a small weep may appear once the thing gets used. Before I fitted the replacement valves, my pump was incapable of priming itself from the tank (insufficient suction!) - now it works properly! As long as it is in good condition, the mechanical pump is quite capable of keeping up with a car generating some 140 BHP in rally conditions (they did so in the 1960s, after all) - beyond that, you probably need an electric pump. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 I run a Mitsuba fuel pump directly connected to the Weber carbs. Cheers Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Moss replacement pump has no hand primer (well, the one I bought hasn't). I have used the Moss kit to replace valves and diaphragm in my old (hand primer) pump with complete success - but you may need to tweak the screws on the diaphragm cover after a few miles, as a small weep may appear once the thing gets used. Before I fitted the replacement valves, my pump was incapable of priming itself from the tank (insufficient suction!) - now it works properly! As long as it is in good condition, the mechanical pump is quite capable of keeping up with a car generating some 140 BHP in rally conditions (they did so in the 1960s, after all) - beyond that, you probably need an electric pump. Ian Cornish Ian - any tips on reassembly? I tried to use the repair kit but suffered weeping where the diaphragm clamps. Would gasket sealer be any good? Also the diaphragm in the kit seems to be three layers of some sort of rubberised fabric, not a single rubber sheet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 (edited) Ian - any tips on reassembly? I tried to use the repair kit but suffered weeping where the diaphragm clamps. Would gasket sealer be any good? Also the diaphragm in the kit seems to be three layers of some sort of rubberised fabric, not a single rubber sheet. Interesting.... I have just bought a couple of repair kits for my fuel pump and the diaphragm is a single sheet not 3 laminations type, that were stapled at the tab. All my old used diaphragms (yes I know, chuck out the junk)are the 3 laminated sheet type with AC emblazoned on them, they are red not black. One of them is shaped also, not a flat sheet. (I'll do photos if any one is interested) I notice that the oil seal in the base of the pump, that the metal rod from the diaphragm goes through to connect to the lever, is not included in the kit. Shame as this is seal stops oil from the crankcase entering the lower diaphragm area of the pump. The lower area, where the seal is, is (correctly) vented to atmosphere, so a poor seal will let oil come through and then drip from the vent hole. The seal used to come in the major rebuild kits with the levers and pivot shaft (8G2040 was the OE number for the kit - Moss kill it as NLS). Could be an item to make if owners rebuilding pumps have suffered with oil drips from the side of the fuel pump. Cheers Peter W Edited September 28, 2010 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 I think my replacement diaphragm might have been more than a single sheet of material (it's 4 years since I did it, so I can't be certain. I didn't use any sealant as one can never be sure that the sealant won't damage the "rubber". It's important to thoroughly clean the mating surfaces and to exert even pressure by going round and round the screws, gradually tightening each - then check again once the engine has been on a test run, then again periodically to ensure no weeping. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geoff359 Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 I bought my AC pump spares from Dave Davies in Manchester. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/carljdavies/Bearing2.htm or Tel 01942 891447 Mob 07909737531 I bought a master kit which included the seal & retainer and a seal & retainer for a spare as well! Prices are good too! Geoff Masterman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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