Richardtr3a Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 I am trying to buy a new master cylinder for the TR3A and there are a lot on offer out there. Please can someone let me know the correct bore size for the 1958 cars with, of course, remote reservoir. Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Hi Richard, 3/4" or if you prefer metric 0.75" is what it should be. Personally I'd stick with one of the main TR specialists and get the correct item, and avoid the various 'alternative' offerings on ebay and elsewhere - they may be chaeaper, but I could live without the hassle ! Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 I agree with Alec. Mine came from Moss. No problems at all. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted August 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 Thanks for the answer. I am off to Knebworth tomorrow and I will now be looking for .75". I am keen to find old Girling stock and have had some problems with other new parts. About 6 years ago the brakes stuck on and we had to stop. The repair was an overhaul kit. But this time, before we grind to a halt, I think that full replacement is the answer. It also gives me a reason to go to the autojumble. Thank you for the spec. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 Had you thought of sending it off to Past Parts to be lined with a stainless steel tube and rebuilt, which is what we have done with all old cars and then change the brake fluid annually. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
angelfj Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 Had you thought of sending it off to Past Parts to be lined with a stainless steel tube and rebuilt, which is what we have done with all old cars and then change the brake fluid annually. Ash It's easy to criticize vendors for poor quality parts and I have been known to be vocal about this issue. So, I thought it would be important to provide positive feedback when a vendor does something good. It's only fair. Check this out for authentic reproduction of brake/clutch master cylinders. Unlike earlier units, these do not require the in-line conversion fitting. I compared the casting to an old originals and they are identical, except sans Girling name. The price is reasonable, also. Two of these went into the "Lady" this weekend. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=92822 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Richard - The master cylinders for my 1958 TR3A had the outlets straight up - not inclined as S-T adopted the change somewhat after mine was built and delivered. Mine is TS 27489 LO and mine are correct as per my atachment in early 1958. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 It's easy to criticize vendors for poor quality parts and I have been known to be vocal about this issue. So, I thought it would be important to provide positive feedback when a vendor does something good. It's only fair. Check this out for authentic reproduction of brake/clutch master cylinders. Unlike earlier units, these do not require the in-line conversion fitting. I compared the casting to an old originals and they are identical, except sans Girling name. The price is reasonable, also. Two of these went into the "Lady" this weekend. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=92822 I wasn't criticising anyone, merely suggesting that a stainless steel lined cylinder was better and more long lasting than an aluminium one, especially if the car isn't used all the time. FWIW my experiences of new Girling master cylinders was that they could be a real pain to prime. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
angelfj Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 I wasn't criticising anyone, merely suggesting that a stainless steel lined cylinder was better and more long lasting than an aluminium one, especially if the car isn't used all the time. FWIW my experiences of new Girling master cylinders was that they could be a real pain to prime. Ash Ash, Sorry. I didn't mean to imply that you had an axe to grind. I got lazy and copied one of my posts from another forum that I frequent. I DO have issues with the **** some suppliers are providing, but when they do something positive I have tried to recognize their efforts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Ash, Sorry. I didn't mean to imply that you had an axe to grind. I got lazy and copied one of my posts from another forum that I frequent. I DO have issues with the **** some suppliers are providing, but when they do something positive I have tried to recognize their efforts. I certainly don't have an axe to ground unless it it is to slaughter every maker of pattern parts that has caused me to have premature failures, breakdowns or that have not fitted. Buying parts after the production of vehicles has ceased is a nightmare, so I agree that the companies who get it right deserve praise. IMO Past Parts of Bury St. Edmunds are a godsend. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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