wire wheels

[GPICK]

Looking for a bit of advice. When checking the 4a over for MOT I noticed slight rotational play between hub extensions and wire wheel centres with the brakes locked on. The question is am I looking at replacing all the wire wheels and hub extensions or is there a chance that replacing just the hub extensions may solve the problem? Suppose I'm asking which component is likely to have worn the most? Has anybody else solved the problem by fitting hub extension alone?

Any input would be appreciated.

 

Regards, Geoff.

[Badfrog]

Hi Geoff,

 

This happened to me years ago when I discovered the basic law of mechanics: reciprocity. When two parts interact, they deteriorate together unless one is much harder than the other. So, borrow a good wheel and try it for play (not foreplay, mind you...) on your hubs. Then ask a friend who has good hubs and try your wheels on his hubs (still no foreplay, just ask).

 

My bet: both are down, the wheels a lot more than the hubs.

 

Cheers,

 

Badfrog

[GPICK]

Hi Badfrog, foreplay aside-had a sheltered upbringing- will try that. Looks like I might have to dig deep and get some replacement wheels if the worst comes to the worst.Perhaps a set of minilite replicas. If I went for a set of 5.5 j's would I be able to reuse the 165x15 tyres being used on the wires at present, or would I be best to upgrade to say 185's.

Cheers Geoff.

[Smokey]

If one is worn, so is the other. I tried to save $$ by replacing just the wheel, but the worn hub soon ruined it. If there is any play, you need to replace both.

[GPICK]

Hi Smokey, sounds like I'll have overcome the short arms and and deep pockets syndrome I suffer from being a Yorkshire man, and do some serious spending.

 

Cheers, Geoff

[Alec Pringle]

Hi Geoff,

 

it's unusual for just one of the pair to be at fault, and if that is the rare case then it's down to poor material spec of the offending component - and the good item will start to wear pdq, albeit probably not as quickly as the bad. The simple answer is to remove the wheel, clean up it and the hub extension, and examine the splines . . . . a magnifying glass will soon show up any wear. And yes, odds on the wheels will show more wear than the hubs.

 

165/80 tyres work perfectly well on a 5.5" rim - that was, after all, the original TR6 fitment.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[GPICK]

Hi Alec, will have a good look for wear tomorrow, and given everone's response, it sounds as though I,ll be looking for some new wheels on Monday. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

 

Regards Geoff.

[RogerH]

Hi Geoff,

usually the rear wheels/hubs (drivers) go first as they suffer the effects of acceleration/deceleration more than the front (not driven).

If you only have play on the rear then try swapping the front wheels to the back and back wheels to the front and see whats going on.

You may get away with replacing only two wheels/hubs or, if lucky, none at all.

 

If you go for minilites etc research your wheel studs before hand in conjunction with the wheels of interest.

 

Roger

Edited August 29, 2010 by RogerH

[GPICK]

Hi Roger, did think about that, but the fronts have play on the splines too, so its quite possible that they have been changed round by a previous owner. Having cleaned both splines and wheel centres this morning wear is visible on both in all 4 wheels and splines so it's going to have to be new wheels . With regard to the studs I realise I'll have to replace the existing ones as they are shotened versions to allow the fitting of the hub extensions.I'll have to talk to the supplier when I purchase wheels as I just presumed standard studs for original steel wheels would be what I would be looking for.

 

Cheers, Geoff.

[Badfrog]

Dear Geoff,

 

If I get your last post right, you intend to cut the expense by buying steel wheels and remove the hub/wire wheel combo. This implies that you need to replace your sawed-off studs with standard length ones. This may be quite expensive if you don't do the change yourself (and I wouldn't). Make sure that new hubs plus wire wheels aren't cheaper compared to new steel rims and long studs installation.

The bolt-on studs currently sold are not bullet-proof IMO and you should have them hammered flat at the rear (good gracious me, I'm not sure I'm using the proper terms ...) so the metal overlaps the threaded holes in the hub and thus studs can't come off. This implies half-shafts dismantling.

 

If you go for steels 5.5, the ideal mount is 175.80.15 XAs Michelin (superb but a shock to the wallet) or Vredestein 165.80.15 (excellent and very reasonable, my favorites)

 

Cheers,

 

Badfrog

[RogerH]

Hi Geoff,

if you go for minilites you will find a number of methods of attaching them.

Don't know the correct name but there are nuts that have a parallel barrel section that fits into the wheel and would probably suit the shorter stud (just) although the purist would probably fit the standard length stud (apprx £5 each = £80 possibly less)

These wheels are pigs to get the nuts on/off.

 

If you go for the wheel with the coned nut then life gets interesting.

The front wheels can be fitted with extended studs (may need some machining.

However the rear studs have no direct extended stud. The front extended can be used with a fair bit of machining (countersink head etc)

 

Or, you could go for the mimilite that fits onto the splined hub (new hubs required) these are the bees knees.

 

Roger

Edited August 29, 2010 by RogerH

[stuart]

If you decide to stick with wires then TR Shop probably offer the best deal for a set of four with hub extensions, spinners and new nuts and I think even throw in a copper and hide mallet and a cleaning brush . Currently £560 for painted 60 spoke.

Stuart.

[GPICK]

Hi folks, why is life never simple! The plan is to go for minilite style wheels as even with new studs they come in a lot cheaper than wires. The one's I've seen are from the TR shop and although I'll have to talk to them, in the brochure it looks like there is some form of washer which goes on before the wheel nuts, which I was hoping could be used by replacing the current short studs with standard long studs used for steel wheels. Roger what do you mean when you say that there is not a direct rear extended stud? Would a normal stud for steel wheels not do the job at the rear.

 

Cheers Geoff.

[RogerH]

Hi Geoff,

it all depends on the design of the wheel at the stud holes.

If using the parallel barrel nut that extends into the wheel stud hole then the standard stud (and possibly the short stud) will do the job.

However if you have wheels that utilise a cone shaped nut then the stud needs to be a lot longer in order to pass throughy the wheel stud hole and still have enough exposed thread to set the nut on.

 

You need to measure the stud length you want to use and then measure the wheel you intend to use.

You need apprx 8 to 10 turns of the nut to tighten.

 

Roger

[GPICK]

Hi Roger, I see what you mean. Will have to run this past the supplier.

Thanks for the advice.

 

Regards, Geoff.

[Guest ntc]

You should replace the wheel studs if they have been cut

[GPICK]

Hi ntc, intend to replace them, but it sound as though I might be strugling with the rear studs,though if a supplier is selling this type of wheel with cone type nuts, would like to think he could supply suitable long studs for the rears.

 

regards,Geoff.

[Guest ntc]

Hi ntc, intend to replace them, but it sound as though I might be strugling with the rear studs,though if a supplier is selling this type of wheel with cone type nuts, would like to think he could supply suitable long studs for the rears.

 

regards,Geoff.

 

 

If they have washers they will be sleeved maybe coned at the end but irrelevant,they will not fit as they should anyway unless something has changed

[graeme]

Geoff,

 

I have Minilite wheels of original design which use the standard cone nuts and the standard wheel studs are long enough.

 

Maybe the replica minilite type wheels are thicker and as Roger says require a longer stud.

 

Go with genuine Minilites

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

[GPICK]

Hi folks, will have to put this to the supplier and if they wont fit without lots of hassle will have to rethink things.

 

regard, Geoff.

[peter clarke]

Hi, I have replaced wire wheels with minilite replicas from the TR Shop and they are supplied with the barrel type nuts and a steel washer to protect the aluminium wheel. They fit onto the short studs with sufficient turns of the nut.

[GPICK]

Hi Peter,thanks for that. Did try to phone the TR Shop today to get some answers but it was closed due to the bank hol. Looks like the chidrens inheritence is going to take another hit! TR Shop here I come.

 

Cheers Geoff.