tr4u2 Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 I want to change the front spring pin but having looked at the Moss catalogue it appears the pin is shaped like bolt with two flats on the head. I assume this goes in a tube through the chassis rail from the inside of the rail. My chassis has the later steering rack mounts to date it and has a boss welded into each rail and it appears the pin fits from the outside interferance or taper fit?, on the inside of the rail the boss is tapped 5/16" unf which I think is used to push the pin out of the boss. any ideas/comments welcome regards Adrian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodri Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 I was lucky with mine and changed it with the body off during restoration. It is an ex - USA car and the pin came out easily. However, it is more difficult with the body on and especially if it has seized in the tube. Those who have experience of the latter will advise I am sure. There are stainless replacements available which may not seize so easily. Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 I want to change the front spring pin but having looked at the Moss catalogue it appears the pin is shaped like bolt with two flats on the head. I assume this goes in a tube through the chassis rail from the inside of the rail. My chassis has the later steering rack mounts to date it and has a boss welded into each rail and it appears the pin fits from the outside interferance or taper fit?, on the inside of the rail the boss is tapped 5/16" unf which I think is used to push the pin out of the boss. any ideas/comments welcome regards Adrian I would imagine that it is the same as a TR3a in which case it is a parallel pin that slides in from the inside of the rail. My 3a has the same 5/16 tapped hole on the inside of the pin (i.e. the head with the flats) and I assume that it is put there in case you need to put some sort of puller on it from the inside whilst you hit with a hammer from the outside. Mine came out fairly easily after I sprayed them regularly with penetrating oil and left them for a couple of weeks. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 I assume that it is put there in case you need to put some sort of puller on it from the inside whilst you hit with a hammer from the outside. Yes. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 I would imagine that it is the same as a TR3a in which case it is a parallel pin that slides in from the inside of the rail. My 3a has the same 5/16 tapped hole on the inside of the pin (i.e. the head with the flats) and I assume that it is put there in case you need to put some sort of puller on it from the inside whilst you hit with a hammer from the outside. Mine came out fairly easily after I sprayed them regularly with penetrating oil and left them for a couple of weeks. Rgds Ian How the hell can you hit that with a hammer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 How the hell can you hit that with a hammer? Only with the body off Thats why years ago you used to see lots of side screen cars with a hole bored in the bottom of the rear quarter panel They can be an absolute pig to get out if they are frozen in. Best soaked for a long time first!! The original idea of the 5/16" hole was to fit a threaded bar in and then using a tube that would fit over the pin and a large washer and a nut on the thread wind them out. Yea right!! I have had to drill them out of a bare chassis before now and that aint an easy job as they are hardened pins originally. Its easier to unbolt the body and then jack the rear end up off the chassis, cut the old spring off, remove that side brake drum and back plate and then you can fit a new spring fairly easily. (not as silly as it sounds and a damn sight easier ) Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 How the hell can you hit that with a hammer? With the aid of a short section of U-channel. Not saying it's easy, though. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamie hart Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 It does come out eventually but as Stuart says it is really a body off job to get access. If you are ding it with the body on, I suggest you put lots of penetrating fluid on it and mine needed a blow torch to heat up the chassis where the pin goes through. I tried using a puller, but even a high tensile bolt did not help so I resorted to a Birmingham spanner plus heat an eventually it moved!! Have put the new one in with lots of copper slip!! Hope this helps! Jamiw Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr4u2 Posted August 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 Thanks for all your comments, the body is off for painting so i can get to it easily regards adrian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 23, 2010 Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 Be careful using excessive force to get the pin out as it can distort the tube in the chassis. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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