Starter bendix not disengaging

[jbenajes]

Hello,

 

After being completely dismantled and internally and externally refurbished I have checked the function of the long-neck (not bomb) starter, and it seems to be able to properly drive the engine without sparking plugs and without carbs.

 

However, the" bendix" seems to be unable to disengage the starter gear from the pinion ring. I understand that probably this would not happen if the engine would start, since due to the higher ring teeth speed, the starter gear would be thrown backwards and disengage. Even by tapping it slightly with a hammer or by loosening the two bolts it remains jammed.

 

Is there any off-the-shelf solution for fixing this problem?

 

Thank you for your help.

 

Jesus

[Don Elliott]

It sounds like you're starter solenoid up near the voltage regulator is defective. If the contact inside it is staying closed, you're starter will continue to receive power. Disconnect the large power cables from the front of your starter solenoid and then touch the wires together for a second. Then separate them. If the starter starts and then stops after you break the connection, it seems like you may need a new solenoid.

[TR 2100]

I don't think the problem could be related to the electrics, as the

bendix is NOT held into the flywheel by any current.

 

It could well be that, in a normal operating situation, the engine

starting would throw out the bendix and you would have no problem.

 

But it still shouldn't be so difficult to disengage with the persuasion

you have used already.

 

Maybe it's just a matter of rough edges that will soon disappear with

use, but naturally you want to know now.

 

What has been replaced? What was the extent of the 'refurbishment'?

 

AlanR

[jbenajes]

Don, Alan is right, since I fed the starter directly from the battery. It is definitely a mechanical problem

 

I dismantled completely the starter (one of my favorite hobbies), changed bushes and brushes, got the coils wrapping renewed and as far as the bendix, I took apart all the pieces, cleaned them and assembled everything in the same position. Perhaps the preload on the big drive spring is not the same as before.

 

When I move the starter gear by hand towards the starter body (in the direction that it should engage in the flywheel gear), I notice a weak throwing-out force from the small spring, so that the gear does not return freely to its original position without a small push.

 

 

[stuart]

Don, Alan is right, since I fed the starter directly from the battery. It is definitely a mechanical problem

 

I dismantled completely the starter (one of my favorite hobbies), changed bushes and brushes, got the coils wrapping renewed and as far as the bendix, I took apart all the pieces, cleaned them and assembled everything in the same position. Perhaps the preload on the big drive spring is not the same as before.

 

When I move the starter gear by hand towards the starter body (in the direction that it should engage in the flywheel gear), I notice a weak throwing-out force from the small spring, so that the gear does not return freely to its original position without a small push.

 

If it doesnt return freely then thats why its jamming in. The small spring may well be weak or broken .

Stuart.

[sforster]

Jesus,

I recently changed my starter for a new high torque one, if my old one can help you let me know.

Simon.

[jbenajes]

Jesus,

I recently changed my starter for a new high torque one, if my old one can help you let me know.

Simon.

 

 

Hi Simon,

 

Glad to read from you again.

 

Thanks for the offering. As I explain in another post below, I think I have fixed the problem. However, do not throw the old starter, if you want to get rid of it, tell me and I will go to collect it.

 

Hope to meet you again.

 

Jesus

 

 

[jbenajes]

I think that I have fixed the problem (touching wood).

 

I dismantled again the bendix and cleaned the light grease I had used initially in the belief that this would help. But is seems that, according to the instructions in the manuals, no grease nor oils must be used in the bendix, and in fact, this was the culprit for some sticking of the sleeve that prevented the throw-out action.

 

Thanks again for your help and support.

 

Jesús

 

 

[Trevor S]

Glad to hear you've solved the problem Jesus. The small spring isn't very strong so I thought it unlikely that would be the problem. I had a mechanical problem with the starter when it wouldn't disengage wheh the engine was running. I measure teh distance from the engine casing where the starter attaches to teh far side of teh flywheel, and measured teh distance from teh pinion edge ot where teh body of teh starter bolted to the engine and found a very mall overlap. I changed the pinion discovering another one I had was very slightly shorter and this solved the problem. Just a thought if the problem comes back.

[john.r.davies]

Jesus,

You got it ahead of me!

Any type of grease or oil is wrong on the Bendix, It will pick up clutch dust and jam.

The recommended lubricant is graphite powder.

EG:

http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-316744/ck-t6283a-graphite-dry-lubricating-powder.html

(Just the first hit on a Google search - there are lots of other suppliers)

 

JOhn

[whiteone]

Jesus,

You got it ahead of me!

Any type of grease or oil is wrong on the Bendix, It will pick up clutch dust and jam.

The recommended lubricant is graphite powder.

EG:

http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-316744/ck-t6283a-graphite-dry-lubricating-powder.html

(Just the first hit on a Google search - there are lots of other suppliers)

 

JOhn

 

[whiteone]

I remember doing a lot of work on this subject as a development engineer in the sixties.

The helix on the armature shaft had to be spotless - I then "lubricated" it with an HB pencil

It was also essential that the mounting flanges on the clutch housing and starter were undamaged and not contaminated as this could produce a side loading on the Bendix mechanism, causing it to jam in mesh.