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Hi all,

 

I'm looking at buying a new bonnet badge for my '62 as she nears completion.

Thing is, from Moss North America the badge cost $160. The TR Shop in London has them listed for about 35 quid. Now even with the exchange rate this is an enormous difference. Has anyone used the TR Shop item? Is it a lower quality or is Moss just ripping people off here?

 

Paul

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I'm looking at buying a new bonnet badge for my '62 as she nears completion.

Thing is, from Moss North America the badge cost $160. The TR Shop in London

has them listed for about 35 quid. Now even with the exchange rate this is

an enormous difference. Has anyone used the TR Shop item?

Is it a lower quality or is Moss just ripping people off here?

 

Hi Paul,

 

I don't know for sure about the TR Shop (or Moss UK) badges,

but the most recent re-manufacture here produced very nice

looking badges, but the pins were too large in diameter (so

you have to at least drill the bonnet) and they were angled

in (try to bend them and you'll crack the enamel).

Oh yes, and the curvature wasn't right for the bonnet.

 

When you look at the cost of TR2 and TR3 badges - much more.

Maybe the price of TR4 badges is low just to shift them?

 

I don't know for sure about the Moss North America badges but

my guess would be that they are not the same manufacturer.

 

What about TRF?

 

AlanR

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http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/tc/full.aspx?Page=22

 

Paul, Unless I'm reading the on line catalogue wrong Victoria British seem cheaper. See link above. You may get the same problems with the UK repro ones as mentioned above, the biggest being the fact that the front retaining pin isn't angled on the repro ones and they can't be bent without damaging the enamel fronts. If you enlarge the bonnet hole slightly and shorten and file down the front pin you should get it to fit, but it's not a great fit anyway.

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Hello,

 

I have a Red TR4A down here in Australia. I got the USA Moss Motors bonnet badge, it was so good that I took a bonnet photo of it and sent it to Moss.

 

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/601-088.pdf

 

They did a great job replicating the original, and I'm a hard taskmaster and not very easily impressed by many replica parts.

 

(I've just joined this register and I am shortly going to post some articles which include:

Lucas dynamo charging circuits and electronic replacements of the Lucas RB106 regulator- two different solutions created for a TR4A in Australia.

Overdrive Logic units for the Laycock type A overdrive for Triumph TR sports cars).

 

Hugo.

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Hello,

 

I have a Red TR4A down here in Australia. I got the USA Moss Motors bonnet badge, it was so good that I took a bonnet photo of it and sent it to Moss.

 

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/601-088.pdf

 

They did a great job replicating the original, and I'm a hard taskmaster and not very easily impressed by many replica parts.

 

(I've just joined this register and I am shortly going to post some articles which include:

Lucas dynamo charging circuits and electronic replacements of the Lucas RB106 regulator- two different solutions created for a TR4A in Australia.

Overdrive Logic units for the Laycock type A overdrive for Triumph TR sports cars).

 

Hugo - are you aware that two respected UK suppliers of TR parts, Revington and Racetorations, offer overdrive logic kits for TRs? I fitted a Revington unit about 6 years ago and found that it eliminated all the minor niggles with overdrive, such as: changing from 1st to o/d 2nd because I had forgotten to flip the switch when I came to rest, having to use both hands when changing from o/d 4th to direct 3rd or 2nd, etc.

Ian Cornish

 

Hugo.

 

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Hello Ian,

 

Yes, I know about those units.

 

The unit I will be posting is made by oneself as a home built item, from a few simple parts, and links easily into the existing wiring and uses a easy to get 1960's vintage silicon controlled rectifier and requires no modifications to the existing switches etc. It can also be executed with the right relay, but it's better to use the SCR and have no moving parts. I will upload the data on it this weekend.

 

Also I have some interesting data on type A O/D units including the math formulas for the O/D ratios of different units and the speedo drive ratios. I also have a very unusual and interesting description of the overdrive functionality(which has not been seen before), based on an electrical equivalent circuit analogy of the hydraulic components of the O/D unit. This provides insight into the behavior of the unit in fault modes, when leakage of fluid around the working seals increases with age or when valves become leaky or fail.

 

The Electronic RB106 regulator replacements I will post also use 1960's vintage electronic parts, so as to match the age of TR4's they are intended for, but they could equally well serve earlier cars and they completely eliminate the problems of the Lucas electromechanical regulator box. The Lucas dynamo itself is in fact quite a good machine, even though it has been said that: " When Joseph Lucas designed his dynamo he did so using neither an excess of copper nor steel"

 

best regards,

Hugo.

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Little bit of useful information from my inside source at Moss London. The last lot of 4 shield badges have been binned as rubbish and there will be a new batch coming soon made by a very respected maker (Not cheap before you ask but will be as near perfect as possible)

Stuart

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