randall977 Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 (edited) My wiper motor works very well but... 1. The sweep radius is too large. 2. The blades do not return to the stationary position, they just stop where ever. The heater blower does not switch on... 1. The motor is fine. Question: 1. Where should the two white wires from the heater go? 2. What wires should be plugged into the heater switch? 3. Which wire allows the wiper motor to put the blades back to rest position? 4. Which wires should be plugged into the wiper switch? 5. Could the voltage stabiliser to broken and how would I know? I have the circuit diagram so need to know what the reality is. Thanks Edited July 12, 2010 by randall977 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Hi Christian, the voltage reg does not control the wipers/heater. The wiper with parking facility is controled inside the wiper motor so if the wiring is OK then this needs to be looked at. The wiring diagram should be able to sort out your wires for both wiper and heater. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted July 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 The red wire which goes to the round cap on top of the motor I assume? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Rotate the cap to set the "park" position. The WSM has the wiring loom diagram with colour-codes - A bit baffling at first, but well worth persevering! Ade Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KnightsT Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Having just rewired a TR4A I would answer as follows: 1. One white goes the the blower switch, the other to a convenient earth. Which one you select to the switch sets which way the fan rotates, so try them and see which way round gives you air out of the vent at the bottom of the heater unit. 2. Most heater blower switches I have seen have three spade connectors, but only 2 terminals if you look carefully at the back. (one is a double!) Heater switch has the white wire above wired to the single terminal, and a green 12v supply wire (not from the volt stab outlet, but from the volt stab supply from the fusebox - see below) wired to one of the double. I used the other of the double to 'piggy back' a supply on to my elec washer pump switch. 3. the red one that you can see going to the circular plate on the top of the mechanism. Loosen the 4 small nuts and rotate the circular plate to vary the park position. If it is not parking at all take the top plate off altogether and check the copper spring clip that make the connectio hasn't snapped off, and that the connections are clean. Normally this part of the wiper will be full of age old almost solid grease that you should clean out and replace anyway to avoid premature motor death. 4. a black one to terminal 4, a light green/red to terminal 6 and a brown/purple to terminal 7 (basically you want the switch to earth (black) the brown/purple for slow and both the brown/purple and light green/red for fast - if I recall correctly) 5. unlikely as someone has said the supply to the wiper/blower is not on the output/stabilised side - they are supplied by a piggy back off the supply side to the volt stab, and it is v. easy to get this wrong - the flasher unit supply is the same. Basically you should have the green supply from the fusebox and two other green wires connected to the B terminal (battery). One of these supplies the wiper and blower, and the other the flasher unit. If you connect either, or both to the I(instruments) terminal the wiper and blower will run slow, and the flasher will do all sorts of odd things depending on your bulbs, connection quality etc. As you will gather a connectivity tester is helpful to figure out which green wire is which! You should have another, but only one, green connected to the I terminal that supplies the fuel gauge and water temp gaugeYou can test with a voltmeter with the ign on - one probe of any earth and the other to the volt stab outlet (terminal I) - should read 10.9v Hope this helps Mick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted July 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Hi, that helps a lot - thanks. If it wasn't dark I would correct those things right now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geoff359 Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Dark? You should live up here; broad daylight 'til 10.30pm. Ideal for working on the TR. Mind you it's a bit dark in the winter!! Geoff Masterman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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