randall977 Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 Last night I put a gallon of petrol in the tank and then looked for leaks (it's a restoration). Sure enough the union below the tank was weeping so I tightened it - still didn't stop. Today I took the new copper pipe out and put a brass olive on it (it was just flanged before). Tightened it up - noticed it was still weeping...tightened it more and suddenly the outer thread started turning!!! It is possible that this is where it was weeping from before (I would like to think!) as it was quite wobbly. Anyhow the leak got much worse so the tank is now out for repair / replacement. The tank is in excellent condition so it is annoying that this has happened. Can anyone suggest a simple and sensible solution to how to stop the treaded nut turning and whilst sealing it... I am not a rich guy so I would like to avoid replacement. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 You need to use the correct olive on the end of the pipe and the correct union as well. I use a drop of liquid PTFE for sealant.If the actual flange fitting is gone in the bottom of the tank then I would be very suspicious of the rest of the tanks integrity. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodri Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 If you are going to Malvern, I have a spare tank going very cheaply if you should happen to need it. I would have to give it a look over to make sure it is absolutely sound, and give you a report on it. I don't want to wrap it up to send it hence Malvern or pick up from SW Wales. Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 Thanks Rhodri...I am actually going on holiday to S Wales (St Davids) in two weeks for two weeks...can I get back to you soon on that one! I did use PTFE sealant, the pipe and olive did match...I suspect the joint was already leaking looking at it now. The inside of the tank really is as new and the joint shows no sign of decay...it may just have been over tightened / undone in the past. My first thought was to get it rewelded but cleaning the tank adequately is a big job. My second thought was to get the threaded insert welded into a small plate then fixing it to the tank with metal weld (which is actually good for tank repairs) and sealed rivets. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 I would get the tank steam cleaned out and properly repaired or replace. The repair you are proposing is not acceptable. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 As Stuart insists, steam clean and a proper repair, or replace. Glueing and/or riveting a tank connection is not adequate for anything other than, possibly, an emergency repair. Even then, only if you're somewhere that recovery services aren't available, and you're prepared to take a big risk. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 When I was restoring my 1958 TR3A from 1987 to 1990, I didn't notice a pin-hole leak in the rear face of the tank half way up. When I finished it in 1990, I got the smell of fuel in my boot and all over the house. So I took the tank out and took it to a shop where they work on radiators and tanks. He told me he would not weld or braze it because of the very high risk of an explosion. So he cleaned the tank inside and "slushed" it with a mix of epoxy and something. A day later, after turning the tank round and round and over and over, it was ready. No more leak and it's been sealed all inside with this epoxy type mix for 21 years now and 104,000 miles since 1990 with no issues. Another advantage is that any loose rust dust or powder flakes become encapsulated in this epoxy mix and during all this time, the glass filter bowl just ahead of the mechanical fuel pump on my TR3A engine block has always been free of sediment. The only negative point I heard was from a TR6 owner who had had his fuel tank done. A "flap" of this coating material formed across the outlet where the fuel enters the pipeline to the fuel pump and it would cause him the "run out of petrol" even though his tank was full. The "flap" was acting like a clappet valve and when it closed down over the outlet, there was no fuel flow. So if you do this or have it done, make sure that you remove all the way around this "flap" (valve) and also make sure you remove the bit so this problem will not happen to you. POR 15 make a similar kit and I used that on a late TR3A which I restored from 2000 to 2006. http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=28&frostCat=Rust Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodri Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 If you do need my tank, I am on the way to St Davids, 12 miles away. PM me if needs be. Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 Rhodri - problem sorted but thanks - could have been useful! Here's how I sorted the tank out. I would like to point out that I have a lot of experience with fuel tanks much more complicated that these ones, I know the do's and dont's! So...my tank is actually in excellent condition apart from the sheered outlet so I didn't really want to loose it. I cleaned the outlet and scored it heavily where I intrended to rebond it. Initially I set the outlet back in place with superglue (as it is not effected by petrol) - don't worry there's more! I then mixed a metal bonding epoxy and applied carefully - I don't expect any problems...ever! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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