Advise on Engine Rebuild

[wjr85]

Body work now finished and painted after 5 years, chassis stripped and painted ready for reassembly, I think it is best to get gearbox and engine rebuild and fitted to rolling chassis before lifting bodytub on to save chance of damage to paintwork if it was done the other way around. I'm I right in my thinking??

 

Now need to farm out engine and gearbox overhaul, gearbox should not cause too much hastle, but which firms are best, don't necessarily want to go with the cheapest just one that is reliable and cost effective. Do any forum members have anyone in mind they would recommend from experience ??

 

Engine more difficult decision, how far do you go in modification terms, I only want to rebuild the engine once, spent thousands already but at the same time want a finished car that drives, pulls and keeps up in modern traffic. What do you all suggest and again what companies would you recommend from experience??

 

Eagerly await your replies

 

Regards to all John Ramsey

[TR 2100]

For modifications, and assuming you don't want to go too far,

stick with the ones that you need to do as part of the engine

rebuild. That's a warmer/hotter cam (say fast road), balanced

engine, 87mm pistons and liners for sure, maybe a lightened

flywheel (not too extreme).

 

The best value for money bolt-on goodie is a 4-branch - essential

in my book as the original design restricts the gas flow so much.

 

That will give you a smooth engine, a fair bit more power and torque

than standard at a modest extra compared with a rebuild to standard

spec.

 

There are quite a few specialists around and you will get many

recommendations. I use TR Enterprises and have a high regard for

their service, but I'm not saying there aren't others who do a

good job.

 

AlanR

[Menno van Rij]

Don't know any engine rebuilders in the UK. I had my TR's engine rebuilt two years ago by a well reputated company overhere in Holland and I went for the safe options: fairly standard stuff: one size larger pistons.

 

More important is balancing all parts before assembling, loosing some weight of the flywheel and flowing the head. Nothing too fancy. My car keeps up in daily traffic easily without me worrying about exotic stuff under the rocker cover!

 

I agree about the four branch manifold and I do want to emphasize on using a rolling road to adjust the carbs! There's a lot of HP to be found by carefully adjusting the carbs.

 

 

Menno

[Ashley James]

I agree with Menno, especially as a nineteen fifties electric milk float would keep up with dozey Brit traffic anyway!

According to works records, a change of needles and 87 mm pistons gave 10.4 secs to 60 in a TR3A, which is moden average.

Be wary of camshafts that give more at the top at the expense of much more useful torque.

My Bristol gives 125 bhp with a sports cam, but less power than the standard 100 bhp cam until the car is doing 87 mph!

Ash

[Ian Vincent]

I was specifically advised not to take any weight off the flywheel for a road car. Otherwise as for Menno, but with a better cam and larger valves as well as a moderately gas flowed head.

 

Rgds Ian

[Menno van Rij]

I was specifically advised not to take any weight off the flywheel for a road car. Otherwise as for Menno, but with a better cam and larger valves as well as a moderately gas flowed head.

 

Well, that's going to be interesting... As said, my car's engine was rebuilt a few years back. Part of the deal with the company that rebuilt the engine was (is) a free rolling road session. Back then, they were building a new workshop and rolling road. Now, after about 4K kms, I think it's time to put the car on the torture machine...

 

So, earlier today, I made an appointment for next week's Thursday, July 8th. Be sure I'm taking my (vid) camera with me! And be sure I'll be reporting here on Thursday evening!

 

To be continued... (Jaws tune on the background)

 

Menno

[ianc]

You might find it helpful to read my article "Talking the Torque" in TR Action 238 (October 2009), pages 28-31. In particular, think hard about torque, because it is the key to good performance in a road car.

If you haven't got a copy, or cannot get a back number from the Office, e-mail me (see addresses inside rear cover of TR Action), and I'll e-mail a copy to you.

Ian Cornish

[TR 2100]

I was specifically advised not to take any weight off the flywheel for a road car.

 

Very surprising. Can't think why, unless someone was worried about the

effectiveness of their balancing. There is of course the risk of failure

if you remove too much metal from a standard flywheel.

 

You certainly don't want to take off too much, and don't go for one

of the 'finger' flyweels, but the heavy standard flywheel is largely

to compensate for the manufacturing tolerances of the factory.

 

If you have the engine balanced, you don't need the same weight.

It won't give you more power, but will improve acceleration a bit.

 

AlanR