Control head

[Menno van Rij]

After readjusting my carbs., I took the car for a tour around the country site. After a few turns, the traffic indictor switch on top of the control head started acting 'stubborn': pushing to the left was more ore less easy, pushing to the right didn't work: the traffic light would come on. Things got worse during the trip: but side don't work anymore. And I think I used too much pressure: the complete c/head is turning with the steering wheel as well The control head is about the only car part that wasn't renewed during the restoration...

 

First, what to do? I think I can remove the control head with the car up on a car lift. Do I have to remove the brass nut at the end of the inner tube? If so, I'll need a new copper ring, I suppose.

 

And here's the dilemma: a few years back, these control head were not easy to obtain. In 2005, I found a complete but tired looking one on eBay. And I managed to buy a new inner tube as well. At that time, new control heads weren't that good, I think: 'iffy' quality, so to speak. What's the current quality of the control heads , as sold by the leading suppliers.

 

And off course, tips and hints are always useful!

 

Menno

Edited April 27, 2010 by Menno van Rij

[stuart]

After readjusting my carbs., I took the car for a tour around the country site. After a few turns, the traffic indictor switch on top of the control head started acting 'stubborn': pushing to the left was more ore less easy, pushing to the right didn't work: the traffic light would come on. Things got worse during the trip: but side don't work anymore. And I think I used too much pressure: the complete c/head is turning with the steering wheel as well The control head is about the only car part that wasn't renewed during the restoration...

 

First, what to do? I think I can remove the control head with the car up on a car lift. Do I have to remove the brass nut at the end of the inner tube? If so, I'll need a new copper ring, I suppose.

 

And here's the dilemma: a few years back, these control head were not easy to obtain. In 2005, I found a complete but tired looking one on eBay. And I managed to buy a new inner tube as well. At that time, new control heads weren't that good, I think: 'iffy' quality, so to speak. What's the current quality of the control heads , as sold by the leading suppliers.

 

And off course, tips and hints are always useful!

 

Menno

 

You can remove the control head without removing the stator tube. Disconnect the wires at the joint by the steering box and then undo the three grub screws on the steering wheel and gently pull the head towards you. It is possible the tube on the base plate is starting to break away from the base. The head itself can easily be dismantled and you may find the self cancel ring has been chafing as well which is why it stiffened up.

Stuart

[vivdownunder]

Menno, before you take the control head out, tape a "pull through" string to the wiring tails below the steering box.

 

Use it to pull the wiring back down the stator tube when refitting the control head.

 

Can save some shocking language.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

[TR 2100]

Menno, before you take the control head out, tape a "pull through" string to the wiring tails below the steering box.

 

Use it to pull the wiring back down the stator tube when refitting the control head.

 

 

 

It shouldn't be too difficult.

 

There are three bullet connectors at the end of the control head wiring.

Three together will NOT pass through the tube.

In a rare moment of inspiration, the factory fixed these at slightly different

position, and the tube is just large enough to take two wires and one connector.

These should push through without too much of a problem.

Maybe repros don't give the same attention to detail?

 

There is another part that I suspect is essential, may well show up on the

exploded Parts Book (which isn't to hand).

I don't know the right term for it - it's a sleeve that is part-cut, lengthways,

and expanded. If you have seen one, you'll know what I'm talking about.

If you haven't, my attempt at a description will be useless!

 

AlanR

[stuart]

It shouldn't be too difficult.

 

There are three bullet connectors at the end of the control head wiring.

Three together will NOT pass through the tube.

In a rare moment of inspiration, the factory fixed these at slightly different

position, and the tube is just large enough to take two wires and one connector.

These should push through without too much of a problem.

Maybe repros don't give the same attention to detail?

 

There is another part that I suspect is essential, may well show up on the

exploded Parts Book (which isn't to hand).

I don't know the right term for it - it's a sleeve that is part-cut, lengthways,

and expanded. If you have seen one, you'll know what I'm talking about.

If you haven't, my attempt at a description will be useless!

 

AlanR

 

I think what you are trying to describe Alan is the anti rattle tubes that go on the outside of the stator tube in a couple of places inside the column.

Stuart.

[Menno van Rij]

Thanks! Next Friday is a National Holiday overhere (Queen's birthday). That will give me plenty of time! I'm glad I don't have to remove the brass nut and the inner tube. The thin piece of rope trick is a great heads up! Certainly something to forget...

 

I'm glad that there's a possible way to safe the current c/head. Mind you, it came with the car and it's showing it's age! Lots of patina, which looks great, imho.

 

I'll keep you posted!

 

Menno

[TR 2100]

I think what you are trying to describe Alan is the anti rattle tubes that go

on the outside of the stator tube in a couple of places inside the column.

Stuart.

 

 

Two of them, huh? You learn every day.

I thought they had more significance than just being anti-rattle.

Can't imagine what rattle you would feel through the scuttle shake!

 

AlanR

[stuart]

Thanks! Next Friday is a National Holiday overhere (Queen's birthday). That will give me plenty of time! I'm glad I don't have to remove the brass nut and the inner tube. The thin piece of rope trick is a great heads up! Certainly something to forget...

 

I'm glad that there's a possible way to safe the current c/head. Mind you, it came with the car and it's showing it's age! Lots of patina, which looks great, imho.

 

I'll keep you posted!

 

Menno

 

Menno when you take the head apart take care that the springs dont fly off every where, just think its a bit like taking a watch apart.

Stuart.

[nickthepedal]

Does this help ?

 

Cheers.

 

Nick.

Sidescreen Control Head-disassemble.doc

Sidescreen Control Head-disassemble.doc

[Menno van Rij]

Yes, I've seen the Australian pages before. I was amazed when I found out that the 'simple' control head contains so many parts etc. Although I've read it before, it's a good article to read again before starting the surgery! I like to do these jobs on a white table in the kitchen. Small parts can be retrived easily. And the floor under the table is flat, paved with very large tiles. That makes things also easier, I know (I've been there...).

 

As said, I'll keep you posted.

 

Menno

[Richardtr3a]

You can work on it without pulling the wires up the stator tube, if they will move enough to give you some clearance. They may be stuck after many years.This will knock your kitchen table plan for six. Your problem may be easy to fix. The top of my stator tube broke off and allowed the control head to turn with the steering wheel. I had it welded back on and now all is well. You need to be very careful on assembly to place the hinged sliders back the correct way or you will not have self cancelling.

Good luck,

Richard

[vivdownunder]

Alan mentioned three connectors at the bottom of the stator tube, but with the horn there are actually four wires in the tube loom.

 

Green Feed from the indicator canister

Green/red LH indicators

Green/white RH indicators

Brown/black Horn

 

These can be difficult to get back down the stator tube if it has rusted internally over time. The tube can also gunk up down near the bottom from steering box oil seeping into the open end, and absorbing road dirt.

 

The horn wire in the tube is always live, ignition on or off, and draws a lot of current, so make sure its insulation is good, even though it is fused. (The horn button when pressed connects the live feed to earth).

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

[Trevor S]

Viv just tried to send you a personal message but I got a response stating "the member cannot accept any personal messages". I assume you message box is possibly full and needs emptying a bit.

Sorry to hi-jack your post Menno, I hope you make progress on your holiday tomorrow.

[Menno van Rij]

'Springs are in the air' is a good title for today's story... A day of high and lows (luckily, ended with a high)

 

I started undoing the wires behind the front apron and I attachted a wire to the bullet connectors when I pulled the harnass out of the stator tube. I reattached the wire (the one sticking out of the stator tube) and inserted the new harnass. And that went totally wrong! This modern harnass has some sort of braided cloth that's loosely knitted around the 4 wires. And it came off, blocking the tube completely. I notice that I was unable to pull the wiring through the tube, so I started pulling it out, and rethink. And that's where it went wrong! I couldn't push nor pull the harnass anymore. Stuck in the tube. I tried to avoid to much force off course.

 

I didn't have an answer for the problem and I thought that I would address this later on. So I turned to the 'new' control head I had lying around. I decided to rebuild the spare control head with the wiring I pulled, because this wiring was in far better shape then the one on the spare c/head. So I printed the Australian page about the c/head and started. Within minutes, springs flew all over the place. (I'm sure Stuart will think: "I told you so"...) These springs are shown on the Australian pages, but not in situ!!! And the phrase: "If you are careful, the springs will stay in place" was not really happening with my c/head... So that's where the guessing started! Where have all the parts have to go? After deducting and trying, a next problem appeared: how to reassamble the thing with only two hands!?

 

First, connecting the good wiring harnass. That was the easy part. On the backside of the element you have to control 3 springs, a direction stalk and two hinged followers that are loosely fitted on their seating... And that's wher an extra set of hands would come handy. After 10 attempts, I succeeded. Shortly after that, I noticed that I put the hinged followers the wrong way round. So I had to start again... During this trial and error fase, there was a moment that I thought 'Sod it, I'm forking out 200 euros for a new control head". And just after that, I managed to install all parts correctly and reassamble all parts.

 

Ever wondered why there's not a part two of the Australian c/head saga? After today, I know why...

 

Now, tomorrow it's back to square one: how to remove the braided wiring from the tube. For what it's worth: I have a spare stator tube in my garage. So I can replace the whole thing, but I'm afraid that reusing the olive will not stop the steering oil leaking. (It's dry now!)

 

It's been a nice day; I've learned new things

 

Menno

Edited May 3, 2010 by Menno van Rij

[Norman D]

Appologies for butting in but my control head is rotating with the wheel too, the head itself is not jammed but there is a 2 1/2 inch tube on the rear of it which slides over the stator tube for about 3/8 of an inch ,it seems to me that these should be locked together somehow and the stator held stationary by the olive at the bottom. They are just plain tubes, one a good sliding fit in the other.Am I missing some form of clamp? Or keyway? Any help appreciated.

[Menno van Rij]

There are three grub screws on the back of the steering wheel boss (Is that the term in English?) These screws hold down the round metal plate that's on the back of the c/head. These screws, togegether with the round back plate keep the c/head in the upright position. But due to twisting etc. over the years, the slotted 2 inch on top of the stator tube can break (don't ask how I know that).

 

The outside measurements of the stator tube is 0.92cm. Not a size that you can pull off the shelf at a DIY shop. However, a metal workshop stores this size pipes and you can always ask them to grind off a piece for you.

 

Menno

 

 

EDIT: I managed to pull out the remaining part of the wiring harnass. The renewed c/head is installed and I will connect new bullet connectors tomorrow. Any advise about soldering these connectors is highly appriciated!

 

What did I learn: if you install a new wiring with this silly woven cloth, remove all cloth before you begin and use shrinking tubing instead! Second: make sure the end of the tubing sticking out of the steering wheel is smooth! No sharp edges. These edges will destroy the cloth/tubing.

 

Menno

[vivdownunder]

Menno, why don't you fill the steering box with Penrite Steering Box Lube. It's a slumping grease that will never seep out past the stator tube olive.

 

After 13 years, I don't have any leakage around the steering box at all. Many cars using oil have a huge mess in that area again, only a short time after rebuilding.

 

Being a thick brew, it's a slow process to get the steering box completely full so the upper ball and cage bearing gets lubed. Then it's "set and forget".

 

Incidently, when taping on a pull through wire or string to the control head loom, you have to run the sticky tape along the loose wires and up over the braiding. Then the braiding pulls through OK, or at least the original tightly knitted braiding does. Black electrical insulation tape works well for this.

 

The bullet connectors have a hole in the top. You pull through the stripped wire, bend it over, and put a dab of solder on. I masking tape the wire to something nearby, with the connector in a convenient position, as you need both hands free. Obviously one hand to hold the solder and one the soldering iron.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

[Menno van Rij]

The bullet connectors have a hole in the top. You pull through the stripped wire, bend it over, and put a dab of solder on. I masking tape the wire to something nearby, with the connector in a convenient position, as you need both hands free. Obviously one hand to hold the solder and one the soldering iron.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

 

 

Wow, your comment comes just in time: I'm heading for the automotive suppliers in few minutes time. I have to buy a new soldering iron as well, but that's another story.

 

Menno

[Norman D]

You are spot on Menno there is a 2inch long slotted section snapped off and stuck inside my control head ---- surgical quality welding required. Thanks

Edited May 4, 2010 by Norman D