Choke Set Up

[Duncan Elliott]

When I bought my 4A it was missing the choke cable - I have a new cable ready to fit and although the set up should be quite

Self explanatory a close up pic would be greatly appreciated.

 

The linkages seem very sloppy and loose - I presume that they shouldn't be?

 

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

Duncan

[RAHTR4]

Duncan,

 

What type of carbs do you have, HS6 SU's or Strombergs?

 

Each type have different operating methods and choke cable routes.

 

Regards, Richard

[Duncan Elliott]

ah... good point

 

They are SU's

 

 

 

Thanks

[RAHTR4]

Duncan,

 

This first photo shows where the choke cable attaches to the rear carb :

 

 

This second photo shows the route of the cable back into the car :

 

 

On a standard TR4A you will find two 1" diameter holes in the bulkhead, one directly under the bonnet catch bracket through which the speedo cable is fitted, then a second lower down and this is for the heater control valve cable.

The choke cable can come through either of these to give the best route for smooth operation - I do not know which the Factory originally used.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Regards, Richard

[Duncan Elliott]

Thanks for that Richard - much appreciated.

 

My set looks different to that and seems to be a link type setup. The links are pretty slack and don't seem move much on the carbs at all. I guess once I figure out where the cable is supposed to fit I will get an idea on how the links engage the choke mechanism.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks

Duncan

[stuart]

That will be because your car has the earlier TR3/4 type H6 carbs instead of the later HS6 type. The outer sleeve of the choke cable should be gripped by the bracket on the bottom of the front carb and the inner cable goes into a screw type nipple in the hole above the lowest link that goes back to the rear carb.

Stuart

[Duncan Elliott]

Excellent - Thanks for the input

[TR 2100]

That will be because your car has the earlier TR3/4 type H6 carbs instead of the later HS6 type.

The outer sleeve of the choke cable should be gripped by the bracket on the bottom of the front

carb and the inner cable goes into a screw type nipple in the hole above the lowest link that

goes back to the rear carb.

Stuart

 

 

Stuart,

 

To avoid any confusion - can I clarify that your response relates to Duncan's

original posting (and photos of the blue car) and NOT the photos of the red TR

that has the later HS6 carbs.

 

AlanR

[MikeF]

My car was a mess in this area with similar issues/queries as you. So one not small point: the inlet manifold. I can't quite tell from your picture which one it is. The linkages you have are 3 and 4 as mentioned, which means you have H6 carbs. If your car is a 4A though, then it will originally have had long slightly curvy inlet manifold rather than the short straight arrangement of the earlier cars. The difference in length is made up by the carbs. HS (for short presumably) on the 4A compared to the longer H6. If you have the longer 4a manifold and trhe longer H6 carbs, then the aircleaners will foul on the wheel arch when the engine rocks.

 

 

Mike

[stuart]

Stuart,

 

To avoid any confusion - can I clarify that your response relates to Duncan's

original posting (and photos of the blue car) and NOT the photos of the red TR

that has the later HS6 carbs.

 

AlanR

 

That is correct Alan. Somehow Duncans car has ended up with a TR4 set up.

Stuart.

[Smokey]

This is the correct connection for the choke cable.

[Duncan Elliott]

Thanks for the replies - and thanks for the pic's.

 

 

Wonder why my 4A has the 4 carb set-up ???? maybe it isn't the original engine.

 

Anyway, at least I now know exactly how to connect the choke cable :-)

 

 

 

 

 

Duncan

[Kiwifrog]

Thanks for the replies - and thanks for the pic's.

 

 

Wonder why my 4A has the 4 carb set-up ???? maybe it isn't the original engine.

 

Anyway, at least I now know exactly how to connect the choke cable :-)

 

 

 

 

 

Duncan

 

 

Duncan

 

Remember our cars spent a lot of time as old bombs or junkers before they became collectable and the parts supply became excellent as it is now with the likes of MOSS RF etc supplying new parts for 50 year old cars so anything to keep them on the road was the rule, it did not matter if the parts were origonal or not as long as the car could be driven

 

Cheers

 

Alan

[Duncan Elliott]

Yep... it's a fair point.

 

My red RH drive 4A turned out to be an ex pale blue LH drive car - presumably imported to Australia from the US some years ago.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Duncan