boggie Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Hi all, Dad and I are well into the TR3a body restoration and whilst trying to create a good shut line on the doors we are having to remove material from the edges. This means that the seams will need re-welding so what type of welding gear is best? ARC, MIG or GAS? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 Hi all, Dad and I are well into the TR3a body restoration and whilst trying to create a good shut line on the doors we are having to remove material from the edges. This means that the seams will need re-welding so what type of welding gear is best? ARC, MIG or GAS? Thanks Boggie, had to do the same on bottom part of the back of the passenger side door of my 4A. Although I could have used the MIG and then shaped it with a flap disc, I clamped the 3 layers together and used silver solder to stick them together and get a nice edge. Just meant there was a lot less cleaning up and reshaping. (I have gas/oxy but gas/air should melt the silver solder rod.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 For that sort of job TIG. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 (edited) I'm sure Stuart is right with the TIG suggestion. I'm told a that a good welder can manipulate a puddle on a beer can indefinitely with a TIG. Unfortunately, I don't have one so I'll make some comments from my experience. First, quality welds in sheet metal require considerable skill no matter what type welder is used. The good news is that I find one of the easiest welds to make are along seams such as on your door. Mig will produce little distortion but will add lots of metal and will require lots of grinding. Since I find grinding MIG welds difficult I would not recommend it. Oxy-acetylene will add little or no metal, as long as you spare the filler rod, but it will distort quite a bit more than MIG. I find oxy welds are relatively easiy to straighten afterward, however. Oxy-acetylene would be my choice for welding. A slip or two with any welder can create scrap from a nice door in a hurry, which is why I also like littlejim's silver solder suggestion. I've seen old timers (back in my youth) do this with lead too. Tom Mulligan Edited March 22, 2010 by TomMull Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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