Norman D Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Having painted body tub and installed tank I am ready to install pipe from tank to engine bay. The tank outlet seems to be 8mm or Imperial equivalent so I tried to use 8mm central heating pipe which was a miserable failure as it kinked very easilly and would not make the necessary tight bends. I am just following the sketch in the workshop manuals as regards runs as I did not dismantle the car in the first place. What have others used as brake pipe ? Is the joint needed because of the difficulty of installing the pipe in one piece ? How many clips are needed? Is the pipe clipped to the bulkhead in the engine bay? (Do not intend to use tap as I do not have one and previous posts suggest they are troublesome, unless someone out there knows where a modern replacement can be sourced?) Help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin in CT Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Having painted body tub and installed tank I am ready to install pipe from tank to engine bay. The tank outlet seems to be 8mm or Imperial equivalent so I tried to use 8mm central heating pipe which was a miserable failure as it kinked very easilly and would not make the necessary tight bends. I am just following the sketch in the workshop manuals as regards runs as I did not dismantle the car in the first place. What have others used as brake pipe ? Is the joint needed because of the difficulty of installing the pipe in one piece ? How many clips are needed? Is the pipe clipped to the bulkhead in the engine bay? (Do not intend to use tap as I do not have one and previous posts suggest they are troublesome, unless someone out there knows where a modern replacement can be sourced?) Help! Hi Norman D.- I'm not an expert, but have been through this stage of an as yet not completed TR-3B 'rehab' (not a 'true restoration' as we're not going to be stock/original at the conclusion). Anyway, I ended up using Cunifer (nickel/copper coated tubing) as I did with the brake lines I fab'd up, b/c it is quite nice to work with and has a good safety record. It bends or shapes well for larger diameter tubing, and flares and fits-up nicely. Yes, IMO, a joint is absolutely necessary, don't know how you could fit it with out. I think the clips are easily counted from a Moss catalog drawing, if not the original StanParts catalog. I'm not planning to use a tap either, tho 'Menno' shows a really cool one in his Photobucket restoration series. I just can't find one as nice, so far! Best, Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
joespiro Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 When you say the pipe kinked badly, was that using a proper pipe bender or just bending by hand? I used this to bend the fuel pipe on the warwick and had no problems. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/28586/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Pipe-Bending/Irwin-Hilmor-Multi-Mini-Tube-Bender?cm_re=SEARCHPROMO-_-PIPE%20BENDER-_-28586 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Norman D Posted December 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Thanks for quick replies, was trying to use external spring for bending but got in a real mess. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Hi Norman, have you considered using one of the Automec kits - they have everything in them for your needs. They do Copper as well as Cunifer. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Well worth fitting an isolator tap in the engine bay - obtainable from the usual TR suppliers. If you don't, you'll kick yourself every time you want to clean the pump filter bowl or do any other such job! I have never understood why Triumph discontinued the tap when the TR4 came in - many of us have fitted a modern isolator tap to our TR4s. I have had a tap in place on my TR4 since 1993 with no problems whatsoever - and it is a real blessing when doing the work which I have described. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 I used off the shelf pipe from an ordinary car parts supplier. Just bought a lenght (don't remember the exact lenght) and started installing. I followed the original routing: there's a joint halfway up, next to the chassis. I used the existing holes: I used a special type of rivets: with a hole it which a self tapping screw fits. I used P-clips and the prementioned self tapping screws to attach the pipe to the chassis. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3BGeorge Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Well worth fitting an isolator tap in the engine bay - obtainable from the usual TR suppliers. If you don't, you'll kick yourself every time you want to clean the pump filter bowl or do any other such job! I have never understood why Triumph discontinued the tap when the TR4 came in - many of us have fitted a modern isolator tap to our TR4s. I have had a tap in place on my TR4 since 1993 with no problems whatsoever - and it is a real blessing when doing the work which I have described. Ian Cornish To reinforce what Ian said: when the rebuilder of my TR3B replaced the fuel pipes, he installed a tap right where the pipe enters the engine compartment, down low. At first, I couldn't see why he would have done it, but Ian has summed it up pretty well. This tap will preclude messing with golf tees, and the like, when doing any fuel pump cleaning. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Forgot to mention the tap, indeed! Here's a pic (I've shown that one before). Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Menno, that looks like a tap for water pipes. Does the nylon inlay support gazoline over a longer period Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Menno, that looks like a tap for water pipes. Does the nylon inlay support gazoline over a longer period It's a genuine fuel tap sold by a well known rally/race/tuning company overhere: Biesheuvel. The same tap can be found at The Webcon website (at least, I think I've seen it there too) Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Menno, that looks like a tap for water pipes. Does the nylon inlay support gazoline over a longer period I was thinking the same thing. Normally you should be able to get a data sheet from the suppliers to confirm its suitability. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Shame it's in Dutch, however FIA approved. Biesheuvel Pay attention to the Weber logo on the right. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 I have no objections Menno, it would be intersting to compare them with the ball valves available at DIY shops. Like this one Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Norman D Posted December 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 Thanks for all the replies guys have sent off for pipe bender and will try again with 8 mm central heating pipe since I have a 50ft coil,have also bought a connector to do the job in two stages and have found what looks like a suitable tap from a kit car supplier on ebay, looks very similar to Menno's. More questions soon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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