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Hi Torque Starter


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2 - the higher the terminal voltage, the bigger the wallop delivered by the coil to the spark plugs.

3 - the engine will be rotated more rapidly, which will tend to suck in the petrol/air mixture sooner which, one hopes, will kick the engine into life more quickly.

 

 

Ian

 

Spot on. If your old starter is knackered or becoming unreliable, unless you've got a bad case of originality OCD, why wouldn't you replace it with something that's technically better?

For me, the hi-torque starter significantly improves PI cold starting - now mine actually fires up on all 6 each and every time :rolleyes:

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Ian

 

Spot on. If your old starter is knackered or becoming unreliable, unless you've got a bad case of originality OCD, why wouldn't you replace it with something that's technically better?

For me, the hi-torque starter significantly improves PI cold starting - now mine actually fires up on all 6 each and every time :rolleyes:

 

 

 

Well, old starter now removed, it was tight but came out without any issues.

 

So will be replaced with a Tr Shop Hi Torque jobby, for all the above reasons.

 

Cheers

Guy

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Well, old starter now removed, it was tight but came out without any issues.

 

So will be replaced with a Tr Shop Hi Torque jobby, for all the above reasons.

 

Cheers

Guy

 

 

;) You will not regret it sounds ace, and it will start it has no option hot or cold :lol:

and Tony remove the excess thread on yours while you can ;)

Edited by ntc
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'Scuse me guys, but am I missing something here ? What the heck is wrong with the original starter ?

I spent years driving Triumph 6-pot saloons and sports cars as daily drivers, none of them ever spent

a night in a garage - not in the UK, Austria, Germany, Switzerland, wherever. OK, I can't recall trying

to start one at colder than -15C, although I do recall digging them out of snowdrifts to access a door,

but equally I can't recall ever having to churn the starter more than twice.

Was I lucky or what ?

Cheers,

Alec

 

Quite agree Alec, nothing wrong with the original starter. I've used the original 2M100 type

later starter on my TR6 for the past thirty one years and had no problem in starting in all

weathers or indeed removing it with the various types of exhaust manifolds that I have had

in that period.

just my tuppence worth

cheers

Derek

 

 

I drove a bog standard TR6 in the UK back in the late 70s as my every day transport.

Parked outside, all conditions (including snow), not particularly well maintained.

I can't remember any car I've owned that was better at starting.

 

There wasn't so much 'knowledge' then about fuel injection and I just attributed the

good starting to the fuel injection.

Now, it seems, the original starter motor and fuel injection seem to be the cause of

bad starting?

I don't think so.

 

AlanR

Edited by TR 2100
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Strange that the Japanese used the same teeth pitch as BL; as is 240Z wheels PCD 4-1/2". It was said in the early days they would buy established British goods - take them apart - and then produce a better product / cheaper.

 

 

Aha, is that why they also drive on the LHS?

 

Did the British Car Industry not train the Japanese to build their own after WWII? Shot in the foot.

Edited by smizgals
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Hi Smizgals,

 

the Japanese motor industry started in a serious way during WW1, when Japan was an ally . . . and co-operation with European and American manufacturers continued up until WW2 and resumed thereafter. Wolseley and Austin were the two most significant British partners, Fiat from Italy, Graham from the USA - along with manufacturing/tooling input mainly from the USA, and to a lesser extent from Britain. That was all pre-WW2.

 

Hi Ian,

 

the reason that so many 6-pots start so badly is lack of use, and lack of tuning - poorly set up and pussyfooted around. There's nothing wrong with the PI or starter specification. Back in the 90s I used to enjoy frightening PI owners with the late Dave Lightning Brown. The average 5 or 6 wouldn't keep up in a straight line with whatever everyday saloon I was driving at the time - Renault 30, Sunbeam Rapier, Humber Sceptre, Renault 21. Put Dave behind the wheel and the TR would get a lot closer. Treat it to an hour or two's attention and it would go like it should, and blew the saloon away. Too may owners and/or garages ignoring the priorities, and/or fiddling about with things they didn't understand. The reason the PI system got a bad press in the first place. Nothing new there.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Just to share my own experience : if an original starter motor can be repaired, I do this.

If it's beyond repair, and if I hadn't a spare old one in stock for rebuilt, I use a "high torque" one.

As simple as that ;)

Chris.

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Hi Smizgals,

 

the Japanese motor industry started in a serious way during WW1, when Japan was an ally . . . and co-operation with European and American manufacturers continued up until WW2 and resumed thereafter. Wolseley and Austin were the two most significant British partners, Fiat from Italy, Graham from the USA - along with manufacturing/tooling input mainly from the USA, and to a lesser extent from Britain. That was all pre-WW2.

 

 

 

Hi Alec,

 

Thanks for the more complete history. My limited knowledge was based on a documentary a while back.

 

Stan

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One word of warning.

I replaced my old starter for a high torque version because I was having problems with the starter not engaging everytime.

I presumed it was on it's last legs, as I could get it to work through rocking the car in gear.

New Starter worked perfectly until one day it wouldn't engage, despite rocking the engine in gear etc.

Turned out the starter ring on the Flywheel had moved, so far that the motor couldn't reach it.

Replaced the ring and everything has been perfect since.

Looking at the teeth on the motor it struck me that it was giving my starter ring one hell of a hit, and with the wear on the ring, it finally managed to move it.

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