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A TR6 for all ages?


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Thanks again but I will have to be quick as I'm on my way out.  Registured Oct 1974, CR 6561 125 BHP.  LRP fuel with no conversion.  Run for over 500 miles since I've had it so fuel sould now be OK.

 

Thanks for you help hope you enjoy your dinner,

All the best,

Allan :)

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Hi Allan, right, so it's a 125 without O/D, and you've done 500 miles, so not stale fuel.   Petrol-wise Shell Optimax is rcommended in here, and I haven't been able to try this personally yet, but Tetraboost (link below) is a real lead additive and claims high octane boost - thoroughly discussed in TR4/4A Forum.    What are the plugs like colourwise, CO could be a bit lower, and with lumpy running I'd suspect rich - black sooty plugs.   Any idea of fuel consumption yet?   What sort of speed is it idling at?   Have you standard air filter set up and what fuel pump do you have?   How does it pull, what sort of 0 - 60 time?   Did your mechanic touch the Metering unit settings, or do you not know exactly what he fiddled with?   If you're in top gear at 20-22 mph and accelerate hard does it pink, or lots of black sooty smoke?   (By the way, we're all big kids at heart in here despite our ages!)

 

http://www.tetraboost.com/

 

another useful link, as well as the major suppliers is:

 

http://www.prestigeinjection.fsnet.co.uk/

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Hi again :) , yes i'm back from the pub,

A bit concerned that i'm in the wrong area of the forum, Is that a problem?

 

Shell Optimax, do I need an additive with this fuel?

 

Yes the mechanic did alter the Metering unit settings.  Fuel consumpsion seems good for the car and it pulls really well.

 

It has got overdrive in 4th and 5th but I did have to resolve a broblem with that but its OK now.

 

Not sure about the plugs, not taken one out since the inicial service undertaken after the 4 year off road.

 

Idelling is about 800rpm but not stable, in fact its 700 to 1000 on tick over. To maintain a reasonable running I have to leave the chock out slightly.

 

???  However, I do not have a problem paying my way with this one. If you know anybody who can sort it out for me please let me know. The  genaral running seems OK but the tweeking seems to be the problem.

 

Once again Many Many Thanks,

Allan  :)

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A bit concerned that i'm in the wrong area of the forum, Is that a problem?

 

Shell Optimax, do I need an additive with this fuel?

 

Yes the mechanic did alter the Metering unit settings.  Fuel consumpsion seems good for the car and it pulls really well.

 

Not sure about the plugs, not taken one out since the inicial service undertaken after the 4 year off road.

 

Idelling is about 800rpm but not stable, in fact its 700 to 1000 on tick over. To maintain a reasonable running I have to leave the chock out slightly.

 

However, I do not have a problem paying my way with this one. If you know anybody who can sort it out for me please let me know. The  genaral running seems OK but the tweeking seems to be the problem.

Hi Allan, sorry - when I PM'd you, what I meant was that some Forum users don't re-view some of the polls, whereas if you post a query as a new Topic, you may get more viewers and answers.   There's no such thing as the wrong area!   Light hearted and semi-serious stuff tends to go "at the Bar" though!

 

Yes, you still require an additive as Optimax is unleaded.   Shell quote Octane rating is >98 RON.    Don't mix additives and avoid LRP!

 

http://www.shell.com/home....01.html

 

You can try running without additives, but keep an eye on valve clearances closing up due to valve seat recession.

 

Try and get some idea of 0 - 60 time, quite a good indicator to performance as well as mpg..    Can you get it to pink at all, does it try to run on at all.   On your distributor, have you got the vernier screw adjustment?   Sounds as though it may be on the lean side if you're having to give it some choke (more of a fuel enrichment adjuster, rather than a true choke)- that should definitely be fully closed after 1½ minutes really.

 

Take it for a blast and pull plugs 1, 5, and 6 out to see how they look, without idling for very long - will give you more of an idea of how fuelling is set up.   NGK are reckoned to be among the best.

 

Can anyone recommend someone in the Stourbridge area?   I'm down on the Lizard Peninsula in sw Cornwall!

 

You may like to get a Heritage Certificate for the car, gives details from factory records as to exactly the car was when it left the factory.   Costs £28, can be ordered on-line.

 

http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/arc...ate/default.htm

 

I see from your avatar that the car is Pimento, should be shown as code 72 on the Comm. plate.

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Hi Again Jonlar,

Sorry I have not replied but been out today with my son in the TR at Avon Park Drag Track.  No I didnt tack the TR on the track but I was tempted.  It ran really well apart from the lumpy low rev problem.  It certainly has got the grunt! when you need it.  By the way I did make an couple or errors in my last posting and yes my TR6 does not have 5 gears, but I had just got back from the pub.

 

From your last posting I do have a lot to think about.  I will try the Optimax with Redex lead replacement which I already have.  0 to 60 time may be a bit of a problem as, well thats another one I have to sort out.  The speedo in running slow for some reason, not jumpy just slow.  I would estimate somewhere between 10 to 20 miles an hour.  I will most certainly look at the Heritage Certificate something for the old history file.  

 

What I will do, sometime this week, is start a new topic listing all my current problems and hope that the experts may have some of the answers.  In the mean time if you would like to see a little more of my TR6 follow this link.  I set it up on my website to try and decide what colour to paint the hard top I purchased of ebay.  Not the usual style hard top but something a little different.  Perhaps you could tell me your preferance.  My Webpage

 

Once again Many Thanks,

Allan

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Hi all,

 

At 31 years old I bought my first TR6 in 1979 (registered PEE 5, later registered ATR6 0K). I have owned  four TR6s' over the years and am down to two now. A TR6 0K and a RHD to LHD conversion. I am now 57 and I am still as enthusiastic about the TR6 and am always pleased to pass on my knowledge of them.

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Hi Allan, I was very lucky in finding and buying 2 factory tin lids very cheaply, 1 in here and 1 on eBay, so will have one in Pimento as they left the factory (only found mine had left with F/F top from Heritage Cert.) and the other glossy black.   Did you get the rear glass for yours when you bought it?   Finding a replacement will be a b***er else - Surrey Top glasses fetch around £400 - £500, if you can find one - s'pose you could go without, aid ventilation!.   From the shape of yours and the fact that it's not the F/F type (looks to be a very good fit), I think my personal choice would be Gloss Black - but when it comes down to it, it's whichever you prefer.    I'll be interested to know some of the history of your car, as I see it has the US/Federal model Union Jack/TR6 decals on the rear wings, but is RHD and PI (conversion?).   For a post '72 car, the wheel trims should same colour as the wheels (personally, I think the black look better - and can't quite see from the photos, but has it got the added on air dam, fitted from Oct. '72.    Under the bonnet, is the off-side inner wing recessed over half or entire length?    What's the Commission No.?
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Hi Jonlar, Yes I do have the glass but its perspex and a little worse for ware but should be servicable with a clean up.  I do require a seal for it though and not sure what type.  I also need seals for the window openings. I am hoping to pick them up at the Interntional meeting at Malvern next weekend. However, I don't think I did too bad as I only paid £62 for it and the guy even delivered it for me.

 

My car is pure British and mostly original spec except for the wrong decals fitted when it was refurbed about 14 years ago.  Unfortunatly the refurb was not the best and the paint job is poor, but chassis, floor and all panels are solid.  Not sure what to do about the paintwork yet but I would like to change the decals but worried I might mess it up getting the old ones off.  I was not aware of the wheel trims I might have to change them as well.  Not sure about the "air dam" eather.  Have you any more info on that and I'll check it out, but yes the O/S wheel arch is recessed, never noticed before.  Commision number is CR6561.

 

I bought the TR from a mate at work who originally bought it from Northhampton way, (STD 0536), but I think it was originally from down south.  I still have the original advert from the Auto Trader, Aug/Sept 1991, it was advertised for £6950.  He had it for over 13 years but it had been off the road for the last 4 years.  Nothing wrong with it he just went and bought a motorbike intead.  It just needed a bit of welding on the N/S inner sill, brakes freeing up one rear suspesion droplink replaced and she was on the road. We did give it a service and I had 4 new boots fitted as well.  I have MOT's going back the 1985, some bills and bits and pieces.

 

All the best for now,

Allan

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Hi Allan, I'd suggest pinching the better half's hair drier and try warming the decals slightly to soften the glue and them, don't use anything harder than a finger nail to lift the corner, or if you're feeling brave you could try a pressure washer - personally I'd try the drier first!   The very hot weather and sunshine we've had may help.   Once the worst of the plastic's off, could be worth trying a spot of petrol on kitchen roll to remove remaining glue or T-cut.

 

If you haven't done so already, please register the car with Derek Graham, our esteemed TR6 Registrar, he would appreciate photo-copies of the important docs and Heritage Cert. if you get one.    The CP (<'73 models) series had a hotter cam and were rated at 142 BHP, but are usually referred to as 150 BHP models.   from October 1973 the CR series O/S inner wing had the full recess, an soft plastic/rubber airdam was added at the bottom of the front valance.   Easy add-on, if not fitted!   The moving air vent at bottom of windscreen was replaced with a fixed plastic grille type.   The Perspex rear window may be polished to removed scratches, opaqueness I don't know, but at least you've got something as a pattern.    I've not seen that hard-top type before, but doubtless someone in here will know it - could it be a Lenham?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry PimentoTR6,

I think I may have messed up you poll by posting my problems on your string.  At the time I did not know where to get started with the forum and start to talk to you guys.  Please accept my appology and I hope members continue to post and vote on your topic.

 

All the best,

Allan

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Guest Dutchy6

Hi everybody!!!

 

I'm Tim 22 years old from Maastrich (NL).

My father has infected me with that TR-virus :P

He bought a tr6 when i was about five, he restored it for almost three years and sold it about 7 years ago :(  He also has a tr3A. But we're missing that typical sound of a tr6, so we're now looking for a TR6 for me now.

So if we got one i'll let you guys know!!

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Guest Dutchy6

Hi Jonlar

 

Yeah maybe i'll join the club, but first I want to find a good TR6.

Are there also any LHD TR6's for sale?

Where can i find the TR Action classified ads?

We saw in the last month a lot of cars, but not the one we had that special feeling about. The people who sell the cars are always way too optimistic in their ads(like that's something new).

So if you know a nice TR6 in Belgium, Germany or Holland please let me know.

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Since you want LHD you might try ebay which has about 25 or so available at any given time. With the Euro as strong as it is against the dollar it may never be more opportune than now to buy one. Expect to pay ~ $10,000 for a nice rust free example. Then you could drive it across the U.S. from the southwest ( where all the rust free ones come from ), through Monument Valley, to the east coast where you'll ship it home. The drive of a lifetime :D
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Guest Dutchy6

Yeah that's a good idea  :D

If had some more time I would do that, I've always dreamed about crossing the USA maybe when I'm graduated.

But I gues when you start with TR6 on the west-coast once you cross the (invicible) border to the east-coast is starts rusting :P

Just kiddin, first I want to look here in Holland or Germany but I indeed saw some TR6's on ebay.

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Tim, there some TR6's for sale in Belgium as well as in the Netherlands.  I will be in Maastricht all day tomorrow, but I reserved the day for the lady of the house.

I' m a member of both clubs, so if you really look for a TR6 give me a call and we can have a chat. I'm not a Classic Car Dealer but a TR addict since 1963

Tel: 0032-89-762380

Jean

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Guest Dutchy6

I think we know each other. We saw us last year at Broadway you was there with Martin Stoffer. I was with a orange Lotus from Jan Moorthamer and my father with a Morgan +8 (he has a white tr3A).

My father is also member of TRCH but there was not much for sale in their magazin.

We saw a TR6 in Putte (belgium) who had maintance by Jo Willems, the price was pretty good but the chasis has had some damage and didn't look to good.

We've now made an offer to a red PI.

So we're waiting on a reaction.

But thanks for the offer. I'm sure we'll see each other again.

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Hi Tim,

 

Sorry for this late reply, i've been off the internet for a while. There's a classic car restorer/specialist and very keen TR6 enthousiast close to where I live in Holland ( Waalwijk) who has some very nice Tr 6's for sale at the moment, among which is a quite interresting en verty fast tuned PI. His name is Lex van Lammeren and he is the owner of Lex Classics: telephone numbers and info can be found on: http://www.lexclassics.nl/

 

Regards,

Tim

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  • 7 months later...
Guest caine62

I've just bought my first TR6, picking it up in 10 days time. I live in London and my MkV Golf GTI, whilst being amazingly fast and capable, just doesn't do it for me! The equivalent modern car I could have bought for TR6 money would be a second-hand Polo or Clio, it was a no brainer. Add to that Classic Insurance and it really starts to make sense for a younger driver.

 

I grew up surrounded by Classic Cars - my Dad had a 1927 Morris Cowley for years - and have always lusted after an MGB or TR4-6.

 

I'm 23, and hopefully I'll be able to convert some of my friends to the classic car scene.

 

I'm slightly apprehensive about the long drive back to see my folks, it's a good few hundred miles each way. Oh well, there's only one way to find out if she'll make it...

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Caine62

 

Welcome to the 'TR Fold'! :D I am sure you will not regret it!!!

My 17 year old son has been learning to drive in the '5' in between the driving school Pug 207 - No contest in his view - and the 'street cred' amongst his friend is pretty good too!!! A number of his friend (girls as well) are converting to the merits of these older cars as my wife sometimes uses the Spit to go to work a the local school.

He is quite adament that he will have a TR6 as soon as he can afford one (red , sapphire or green complete with minilites ideally - not that he is picky or anything). Anyone got one going for him cheap! :lol:

Fortuneately the TR Insurance schem allows these young drivers to drive our cars for a nominal fee. I am unable to get him on the Spitfire insurance at reasonable rate - even through the TSSC.

 

Hope all goes well with the '6'...

 

Brgds

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