Help selecting side-view, Desmo style mirror

[angelfj]

I've been looking at the Desmo style mirrors offered here to use as side-view for both driver and passenger. They are available for left and right with plain or convex glass.

 

However, I would prefer not having to drill my windscreen frame for the mounting. Does anyone know of a Desmo repro with a clamp-on base that would be suitable for a TR3A?

 

here is a photo of one mounted on an mga. In my opinion it looks very smart!

Edited August 12, 2009 by angelfj

[Don Elliott]

Frank - The one I fabricated from 14 ga, sheet-metal and then had chromed uses a convex mirror with the curved are for a normal wing mirror for the RHS wing that I bought from Moss. It is secured to the stanchion and because it's a RHS mirror, it curves upwards for mor clearance when opening the door with a side-curtain mounted. I use longer screws in the existing holes to secure the bracket. It's easy to remove before the judges come along. Also I tested it so it doesn't get knocked about when I open the door with the side-curtain on. This photo shows it in the bottom two holes before moving it to the upper two holes so the side-curtain wouldn't hit it.

 

The photo with the yellow background shows a wing mirror for the LHS and this gets hit by the side-curtain. But it shows the bends in the chromed support bracket.

Edited August 12, 2009 by Don Elliott

[angelfj]

Frank - The one I fabricated from 14 ga, sheet-metal and then had chromed uses a convex mirror with the curved are for a normal wing mirror for the RHS wing that I bought from Moss. It is secured to the stanchion and because it's a RHS mirror, it curves upwards for mor clearance when opening the door with a side-curtain mounted. I use longer screws in the existing holes to secure the bracket. It's easy to remove before the judges come along. Also I tested it so it doesn't get knocked about when I open the door with the side-curtain on. This photo shows it in the bottom two holes before moving it to the upper two holes so the side-curtain wouldn't hit it.

 

now that's a possible option! thanks

[trdoctor]

Frank

 

How about this maybe someone from downunder can get them to sell them up north.Aus TR register

 

Paul

[Menno van Rij]

Frank, this search for the perfect mirror has bugged me for over two years. I finally opted for a solution of a French fellow forum member: a small s/steel plate, stanchion shaped, fitted between the window surround and the stanchion. The small plate has a small 'platform' for attaching the mirror.(pics below)

 

However, there's one other solution that's also very neat (no pics at the moment, let me try to explain): considering the fact that the stanchion is flared out at the bottom, you can slide a c-shaped clamp (c-shape profiled like the stanchion) down the the stanchion. A wide c-shaped clamps slides more down off course. You can weld the stem of a mirror on the clamp. Due to the weight of the mirror, the clamp/mirror system stays in place. You have to be able to weld the mirror's stem to the s/steel clamp though... (TIG welding?)

 

Menno

 

 

 

[Menno van Rij]

Found pics. This mirror is on the TR3B of our Register's Group leader.

 

Menno

Edited August 13, 2009 by Menno van Rij

[angelfj]

Found pics. This mirror is on the TR3B of our Register's Group leader.

 

Menno

 

Menno: Let me make sure that I understand. The "C" shaped part slides down the frame and held there by friction? Or, is there also a locking grub screw?

 

I really like this approach.

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

[Menno van Rij]

Frank, it's held by friction! No grub screw. May I add that I would consider lining the c-shape with some sticky thin rubber layer, so that the chome isn't damaged.

I think that this is the best option by far. The reason I didn't choose this option was the fact that I'm unable to TIG-weld. Personally, I would shape the stem of the mirror in a certain way, so that the mirror itself doesn't touch the s/screen every time you open the door.

 

Two interesting points after 2500 miles on the road: make sure that the mirror is a little lower or higher than the height of your eyes: when the mirror is in line with your eyes, there's a chance that you overlook a car that's coming towards you. The other thing(s) is (are) the perspex wind deflector(s) mounted on the stanchions: the hinges are obstacles for a clear view at the mirror.

 

Keep us posted, Frank!

 

Menno

[angelfj]

Frank, it's held by friction! No grub screw. May I add that I would consider lining the c-shape with some sticky thin rubber layer, so that the chome isn't damaged.

I think that this is the best option by far. The reason I didn't choose this option was the fact that I'm unable to TIG-weld. Personally, I would shape the stem of the mirror in a certain way, so that the mirror itself doesn't touch the s/screen every time you open the door.

 

Two interesting points after 2500 miles on the road: make sure that the mirror is a little lower or higher than the height of your eyes: when the mirror is in line with your eyes, there's a chance that you overlook a car that's coming towards you. The other thing(s) is (are) the perspex wind deflector(s) mounted on the stanchions: the hinges are obstacles for a clear view at the mirror.

 

Keep us posted, Frank!

 

Menno

 

Menno: You make some great points for safety sake! Thanks

[Nick Webster]

Found pics. This mirror is on the TR3B of our Register's Group leader.

 

Menno

 

This looks like a really elegant solution especially as you do not have to drill anything on the precious car. But is the leading edge of the side screen still able to fit in the slot in the stanchion? Surely the mirror bracket locates in that slot? Not unaturally I am finding I need a mirror most when I have the hood up.

 

Nick

[Menno van Rij]

Nick, I think there's a good point in your thinking. However, the guy who made this one up, is absolutely anal when it comes to details. To give you two examples: he drives a TR3B. Most of these cars were built without an overdrive. His car doesn't have one eighter. He refuses to fit one, because it's not original. Second example: as you know, my car isn't what you call original. When I arrived at the Group meeting last April, with my TR on it's debute drive to the meeting, he told me in all honesty that he admired the work we put into it, but that he loathed (is that the correct word here?) the 21st Century stuff... Mind you, it's a nice guy who tells you that sort of thing in a charming way. Not offending you when he tells you.

 

Anyway, given his eye for detail, I think that he checked and double checked the possibilties you mentioned. When the C-shape clamps the stanchion very close, I think it will be possible to close the s/screen without any problem. But, having said that... we all know that no s/screen frame and stanchion are the same. These items are often ill-fitting in the first place when you install them; no gap between the stanchion and the s/screen in the first place or a gap far too wide! And if this is also with Frank's car, he can try to clamp the mirror base onto the stanchion before he starts adjusting the s/screen.

 

What's more: he can also make a perfect fitting clamp without a mirror welded to it before he start adjusting. That way, there's not much time lost before and during trial fitting!

 

Menno

[jean]

Here is an Harley Davidson mirror on my 3 fitted directly to the stanchion plate, same thread. Mirrors are available in different shapes, but this one is rather old

[angelfj]

Here is an Harley Davidson mirror on my 3 fitted directly to the stanchion plate, same thread. Mirrors are available in different shapes, but this one is rather old

 

Jean: is your car pre or post TS60000?

[BrianC]

Jean: is your car pre or post TS60000?

Assuming it's post-TS60000, and hence uses bolts as opposed to Dzus fasteners, I believe the thread may not be compatible with modern HD mirrors. I started to explore this some time ago, when Jean first mentioned it, but got diverted by other possibilities. I'm still interested, but my concern over this solution is that someone will knock or deliberately twist the mirror arm and either strip the thread or loosen or otherwise damage the cage nut which would be a pig of a job to replace. Same goes for some other nice solutions which use the existing screw holes in the stanchions. Less of a worry if you only use your car for classic car meetings and shows, but a serious risk for those of us who use the car on a more regular basis and park in public places (vandalism is rife in the UK - especially if you own something the vandals cannot hope to possess).

[angelfj]

Nick, I think there's a good point in your thinking. However, the guy who made this one up, is absolutely anal when it comes to details. To give you two examples: he drives a TR3B. Most of these cars were built without an overdrive. His car doesn't have one eighter. He refuses to fit one, because it's not original. Second example: as you know, my car isn't what you call original. When I arrived at the Group meeting last April, with my TR on it's debute drive to the meeting, he told me in all honesty that he admired the work we put into it, but that he loathed (is that the correct word here?) the 21st Century stuff... Mind you, it's a nice guy who tells you that sort of thing in a charming way. Not offending you when he tells you.

 

Anyway, given his eye for detail, I think that he checked and double checked the possibilties you mentioned. When the C-shape clamps the stanchion very close, I think it will be possible to close the s/screen without any problem. But, having said that... we all know that no s/screen frame and stanchion are the same. These items are often ill-fitting in the first place when you install them; no gap between the stanchion and the s/screen in the first place or a gap far too wide! And if this is also with Frank's car, he can try to clamp the mirror base onto the stanchion before he starts adjusting the s/screen.

 

What's more: he can also make a perfect fitting clamp without a mirror welded to it before he start adjusting. That way, there's not much time lost before and during trial fitting!

 

Menno

 

Menno: if you read Brian C's post, #14, he has a concern regarding vandalism. We also have a vandalism problem here in the states (mostly near large cities), so if I went this route, I would probably remove the mirrors and lock them in the boot when I park. One other thought would be a tamper-proof grub screw. The problem is with the sick mind of the vandal. My son is a psychologist and treats many people who are mentally ill. I told him about my plan and he advised against it. He tells me that utilising any means to thwart a vandal only makes them more resolved to either follow through with their plan or to destroy as much as they can out of frustration. I did have another plan that involved storing about 10,000 volts in a capacitor, so that anyone who did not understand how to turn off the power would get a nasty shock!!!

Edited August 14, 2009 by angelfj

[jean]

Brian is very correct in assuming that my 3 is a post 60000 type with a bolted window frame. Last year my garage fitted a HD mirror to a clients TR3A and the threads were still the same and correct to the 3A. But in case of doubt this could be easily checked at purchase by taking along an appropriate nut.

The downside was that we had to buy 2 mirrors as the dealer only sold them as pair, a LH and a RH mirror. It was also difficult to find in our location a suitable mirror as the shape of HD mirrors is often quite exotic. As to the mirror position, at end of thread, it is not always corresponding to the ideal arm location, so I used a counter nut to bring it in a good position. This also allows the arm to swing for/backwards at impact without damage to the mirror or the person involved.