jellison Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 Ditch the disc shields - they are pointless bits of tin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 (edited) It is a work of art isnt it. Tony has yet to marry that unique tub with the frame as far as I know but I bet he cant wait to drive it. The full story and lots more pictures start here: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....st&p=106610 Stan Thank you Stan..and your totally bang on, I can't wait to drive it. I will be working on it ALL this weekend (and longer... ). I'm sorry there is no dirt on it MI5 (probably due to the fact that it is undergoing a rebuild as Stan alluded), but how that relates to 'manhood', I have absolutely no idea what you are on about.... Tony Edited July 15, 2009 by Tonymill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 I bought the revington enlarged lockstops - but then found the problem goes away with the Revington wheel spacers fitted If I can put my hands on them I will bring them to Malvern to flog on the b&b stall Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simon iregbu Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 I didn't notice that.... only the poor rubbers. I've had a look at the handbook, the brackets and the links are missing... Anything else to be seen.... Thanks for your help!!! Tom Tom Looking at the picture I would have to say that the lower wishbone mounting bracket is upside down. I have looked in my repair manual and it shows this bracket mounted the other way round (the 'u' shaped bracket that bolts to the frame). Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Tom Looking at the picture I would have to say that the lower wishbone mounting bracket is upside down. I have looked in my repair manual and it shows this bracket mounted the other way round (the 'u' shaped bracket that bolts to the frame). Simon Well spotted Simon, they do look upside down. I wonder if that is an accident or part of a lowering strategy ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simon iregbu Posted August 12, 2009 Report Share Posted August 12, 2009 Stan That could well be as it would also increase the negative camber, which would be good for racing but not for general driving as it would increase the tyre wear on the inside of the tyre. I may be wrong about the camber angle because this may all be set up correctly even with the bracket upside down. Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 12, 2009 Report Share Posted August 12, 2009 Looking at the Moss catalogue page 72 it show the bracket the other way round (beveled edge lowermost) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomZ Posted August 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Tom Looking at the picture I would have to say that the lower wishbone mounting bracket is upside down. I have looked in my repair manual and it shows this bracket mounted the other way round (the 'u' shaped bracket that bolts to the frame). Simon Hi Simon, thanks, I noticed that as well while taking the suspension apart. This is what the lower wishbone looked like: It was probably done to straighten the wheel setting after bodging the front support. The support had torn loose and was simply welded in that bent position. No wonder the right front tyre was squealing in tight turns. You can see the point where the bracket was once welded to the steering rack support. That tear doesn't inspire much confidence either.... Now I'm nearly through with all the mechanical parts, so there can't be very many more bodges. I'm curious how many newspapers and old road signs I'll find when I start with the body work (in a far away future). Ciao, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Hi Tom, I had a front bracket in similar condition to yours (probably not that bad), But I removed it and fitted a new one with new strengtheners. When you do this to yours, remember to measure up everything so you know where to refit. Make a bigger weld with thicker material to the steering rack mount too. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomZ Posted August 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2009 Hi Tony, I've bent the bracket in position and had it welded by a professional welder. I did it that way because I wasn't sure of the measurements and if I would have removed the bracket the position would have gone completely. I'm happy what it looks like, I'll only need to have the suspension aligned. I thought my bodges are finished, well, they aren't.... I took the sway bar out, cleaned it, painted it, now it doesn't fit. I don't think it's fault of the paint.... Maybe I should have checked before painting.... Which car does this sway bar belong to? Diameter 22 mm Anybody got a sway bar and wants to send it to Italy?? The shipping will probably cost more than a new one.... Ciao, Tom, who is getting fed up with bodges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted August 22, 2009 Report Share Posted August 22, 2009 (edited) Which car does this sway bar belong to? Diameter 22 mm Looks remarkably like the original SAH one that I have for my TR3A (still not fitted after all these years). If no-one else comes up with an answer, I'll dig mine out and measure it, although I think mine may be a little smaller diameter, so yours could be for a TR4. What is the measurement between fixing holes? Edited August 22, 2009 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomZ Posted August 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2009 Looks remarkably like the original SAH one that I have for my TR3A (still not fitted after all these years).If no-one else comes up with an answer, I'll dig mine out and measure it, although I think mine may be a little smaller diameter, so yours could be for a TR4. What is the measurement between fixing holes? Hi, Brian, you don't have to measure, it was just curiosity. The measurement between the fixing holes is ca. 753 mm. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 (edited) Hi, Brian, you don't have to measure, it was just curiosity. The measurement between the fixing holes is ca. 753 mm. Tom I was curious too, so I did - and it's clearly not an SAH TR2-3A bar. FWIW: Mine is 35.25" (895mm) and 5/8" diameter. Edited August 24, 2009 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomZ Posted October 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 I have of course finished my suspension and been to the Euromeet in Germany. It's not quite as nice as Tonys, but I'm happy with it and it's a really big difference with the new bushes. After sourcing another "normal" anti-roll bar I found out that the originally mounted bar seems to be the upgraded version for the TR6, sold by Moss with the number TT3284. I'll fit that when I start racing! Thanks for your help with the various bodges, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 I have of course finished my suspension and been to the Euromeet in Germany. It's not quite as nice as Tonys, but I'm happy with it and it's a really big difference with the new bushes.After sourcing another "normal" anti-roll bar I found out that the originally mounted bar seems to be the upgraded version for the TR6, sold by Moss with the number TT3284. I'll fit that when I start racing! Thanks for your help with the various bodges, Tom Hi Tom, You're too kind mate. Your suspension is looking the business now. How does it drive with the new poly bushes all round?. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomZ Posted October 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Hi Tom, You're too kind mate. Your suspension is looking the business now. How does it drive with the new poly bushes all round?. Cheers Tony It's really very good! In the beginning the car wasn't fun to drive (the steering rack moved about 3/4" left and right, the bushes were completely ruined) and I was wondering if it was an good idea of me to buy a classic car or if I should better have bought a MX-5 (I didn't know how it should drive). Now the driving has changed completely and the car is real fun. Well, I'll have to do something about the US-spec engine, but that's already on the list. I didn't manage to set a neutral camber on the front right hand side (probably the welded front bracket is slightly out of line) so I set both sides on a negative camber of 1,5°, which is probably better than the original setting anyway. I put rebuilt arm dampers in the back, but I'm not very satified with them, the back is very soft - they don't damp a lot. So always a lot to do! Ciao, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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