Engine mounting replacement

[mikeh]

I've recently noticed that the offside engine mounting on my TR4 has a slight split in it and therefore needs to be replaced. Any advice on how to change it in situ would be appreciated, in particular how best to gain access to where it's fixed to the chassis and what ancillaries, if any, I need to take off first. Having had a lot of fun in the past getting the exhaust lined up correctly, I'd like to avoid taking this apart if possible.

To be on the safe side, I'll change the nearside as well - that one looks a bit easier but again any guidance would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

PS These are the later rectangular type mounts (143057) as opposed the the earlier round ones

[Ade-TR4]

You should be able to get a spanner/ socket onto the nuts. (maybe remove dyno/ alt')

 

Raise engine with a jack and remove/ replace.

 

Not too tricky once you get into it

 

Ade

[stuart]

Best if you are replacing both to undo the top nuts until they are on the last couple of threads and then jack engine slightly at the side to be replaced with a wooden board across the sump and then replace one at a time as due to the angle of the front engine plate its difficult to locate the top stud other wise.

Stuart.

[TR 2100]

I've recently noticed that the offside engine mounting on my TR4 has a slight split in it

and therefore needs to be replaced. Any advice on how to change it in situ would be

appreciated, in particular how best to gain access to where it's fixed to the chassis and

what ancillaries, if any, I need to take off first. Having had a lot of fun in the past getting

the exhaust lined up correctly, I'd like to avoid taking this apart if possible.

To be on the safe side, I'll change the nearside as well - that one looks a bit easier but

again any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks

Mike

PS These are the later rectangular type mounts (143057) as opposed the the earlier round ones

 

Not a difficult job in principle - the manual probably just says

"remove bolts and replace mounting".

 

The only problem is access to the bolts, which have nuts on the

end, so you need to hold the nut while you turn the bolt by 1/8th

of a turn only each time due to limited access.

 

Apart from the time to do the job, allow 2 weeks for your skinned

knuckles to recover!

 

AlanR

[ians]

I did it a couple of months ago. Not that difficult with a lot of pushing, heaving and general levering of the engine plus the obligatory swearing which always helps!

 

I ended up reducing the length of one of the studs to ease fitting but it still protruded from the nut after tightening which is all that matters.