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SD1 Brakes again


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Guest Wayne S

Hi Tom,

 

Good stuff on getting the calipers and discs sorted. You won't have any issues with brake balance, if you retain the balance valve mounted on the turret - but a neat trick to up-rate the standard drums (if you want to) is to replace the 5 speed wheel cylinders with 4 speed ones. They are smaller and so exert more surface pressure (that is assuming you have a 5 speed car to start with).

 

Something you may also want to consider in the future is fitting one of the up-rated servo and master cylinders gives you more braking effort to pedal travel.

 

Sorry, not sure what you mean about backplates?

Edited by Wayne S
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Hi Tom,

 

Wayne is correct with what he says, i will just add a couple of points if I may.

 

The Back plates - generally I think they just don't get put back on the front disc conversion.

 

To change the slave cylinders on the back brakes the locating peg is in a different position so you will have to drill another 3mm (I think) hole in each of the back plates. But its well worth doing and doesn't cost much.

 

Cheers

Ian

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For back plates read stone guards.

sorry about that,can I convert the rover stone guards?

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Tom,

 

Good stuff on getting the calipers and discs sorted. You won't have any issues with brake balance, if you retain the balance valve mounted on the turret - but a neat trick to up-rate the standard drums (if you want to) is to replace the 5 speed wheel cylinders with 4 speed ones. They are smaller and so exert more surface pressure (that is assuming you have a 5 speed car to start with).

 

Something you may also want to consider in the future is fitting one of the up-rated servo and master cylinders gives you more braking effort to pedal travel.

 

Sorry, not sure what you mean about backplates?

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Hi Tom,

 

as Ian points out, back plates are often omitted with larger discs/calipers. They're not obligatory, and brakes run cooler without them.

 

The Rover ones can be tweaked to more-or-less fit, or the original TR7 items can be also utilised with minor tweaking, they just won't cover the whole of the larger disc.

 

There isn't a perfect answer.

 

As Wayne says, retain the existing balancer. But bear in mind that it's often u/s - try hard braking and see if you can lock the rears, if so it's u/s !

 

The 4-speed wheel cylinders will increase rear stopping potential to match the enhanced front, but may also increase the desirability of larger master and servo. On the other hand, as a sidescreen man you're probably accustomed to beefier pedal pressures anyway compared to the average Wedge pilot.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Tom

as chris said the original plates can be used with a little hammer work on the outer edges.I have the Rimmer large kit fitted with vented 258mm discs and these are just covered.Any larger than this and you will either have to remake or adapt.

regards keith

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Hi all,

I have standard non vented SD1 discs and 2 pot calipers on my Grinnall. I have in my garage a pair of 283mm vented jag discs - XJS or XJ6 maybe. They are 5 stud, same spacing but the wholes are furthr apart than the SD1 discs. Anyone know if these can be fitted? do I need adaptors? what calipers would be needed? I have access to a local engineer if adaptors need to be made or parts modded

 

Dave

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