garyc Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Hi all , Can you tell me which way is the right way up for the wishbone? I had been told mine have been fitted upside down ,I keep getting different opinions! should the end by the wheel be pointing down or up ? The front end of the car is extremely low (I can't even get a jack underneath ! ) 62cms front floor to top of arch 66cms rear A photo would be useful. Regards Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 (edited) Hi all ,Can you tell me which way is the right way up for the wishbone? I had been told mine have been fitted upside down ,I keep getting different opinions! should the end by the wheel be pointing down or up ? The front end of the car is extremely low (I can't even get a jack underneath ! ) 62cms front floor to top of arch 66cms rear A photo would be useful. Regards Gary Gary, Heres a photo of mine, whilst stripping out for clean up repaint , bushes etc. My front measurment is 65 cm front with 195 65 r15. Hope this helps Guy Edited December 1, 2008 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Hi all ,Can you tell me which way is the right way up for the wishbone? I had been told mine have been fitted upside down ,I keep getting different opinions! should the end by the wheel be pointing down or up ? The front end of the car is extremely low (I can't even get a jack underneath ! ) 62cms front floor to top of arch 66cms rear A photo would be useful. Regards Gary I'm going to rebuild my front end this winter. I was just taking some "before" pictures the other day. These are from a US 1974.5 Here's a picture of the bottom half of the LHS and yes I know, the trunnion should be oiled not greased. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos...on/DSCN1662.jpg Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 It should point downwards, heres another for good measure; Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Maybe this might help ..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smizgals Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 I'm going to rebuild my front end this winter. I was just taking some "before" pictures the other day. These are from a US 1974.5 Here's a picture of the bottom half of the LHS and yes I know, the trunnion should be oiled not greased. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos...on/DSCN1662.jpg Stan Is that a little scoring I see on the disc? If so, it is probably causes by the tip of the edge of the castelleted nut on the trunnion we see. After a long time and a lot of headscratching that is what I found on mine, albeit on the RHS. My LHS nut presented a flat face to the disc and thus no scratch on that disc. Jacked up there seems to be enough tolerance, however on full lock and under load it is rather different. A little filing of the tip cured the problem. Sorry that I digressed, it might be something to look out for when tightening those nuts. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Maybe this might help ..... Jean; I think Gary is referring to the lower wishbone arms & not the old chestnut, the "top fulcrum bracket". Good picture of one though & fitted the correct way around! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 Is that a little scoring I see on the disc? If so, it is probably causes by the tip of the edge of the castelleted nut on the trunnion we see. After a long time and a lot of headscratching that is what I found on mine, albeit on the RHS. My LHS nut presented a flat face to the disc and thus no scratch on that disc. Jacked up there seems to be enough tolerance, however on full lock and under load it is rather different. A little filing of the tip cured the problem.Sorry that I digressed, it might be something to look out for when tightening those nuts. Stan Interesting, thanks. I'll have a better look at that when I take it apart. I have new discs to go on for the rebuild. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grahama Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 I'm going to rebuild my front end this winter. I was just taking some "before" pictures the other day. These are from a US 1974.5 Here's a picture of the bottom half of the LHS and yes I know, the trunnion should be oiled not greased. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos...on/DSCN1662.jpg Stan Stan. I got told (by a company that should know) geasing is the correct thing to do at service and that oil is only used when putting in a new one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 (edited) Stan. I got told (by a company that should know) geasing is the correct thing to do at service and that oil is only used when putting in a new one. OPPs Naah; oil is specified & I know some use grease but you should never mix the 2 Edited December 1, 2008 by Richard Crawley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
garyc Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Big thank you for all the replies ,hopefully i can now get sorted! Cheers Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Is that a little scoring I see on the disc? If so, it is probably causes by the tip of the edge of the castelleted nut on the trunnion we see. After a long time and a lot of headscratching that is what I found on mine, albeit on the RHS. My LHS nut presented a flat face to the disc and thus no scratch on that disc. Jacked up there seems to be enough tolerance, however on full lock and under load it is rather different. A little filing of the tip cured the problem.Sorry that I digressed, it might be something to look out for when tightening those nuts. Stan Well spotted Stan, there is a short section on the back side of the rotor that has completely gone. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos...jects/rotor.jpg I dont know if it was corrosion or if it was worn or what but there is a track about 4 inches long and up to 1/4 inch wide in the rotor where the surface has broken up. These rotors are going to be replaced anyway as are the bearings and caliper components etc so no biggie. I will watch out for the rotor hitting the trunnion when I reassemble though. It is possible that this area is where the pads were parked during a fairly long layup in the early 80's while we were globe trotting. If I see the same thing on the other side that will be a big clue. The other Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greasemonkey Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 OPPs Naah; oil is specified & I know some use grease but you should never mix the 2 My original handbook (Pt No 501528) says grease. Seems logical as there are no oil seals on the swivel pins. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greasemonkey Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 My original handbook (Pt No 501528) says grease. Seems logical as there are no oil seals on the swivel pins. OOPs - didn't realise I was in the TR6 forum - I'm talking TR3!! But aren't they allthe same anyway - ie - no oil seals? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 OOPs - didn't realise I was in the TR6 forum - I'm talking TR3!! But aren't they allthe same anyway - ie - no oil seals? The 4, 5 & 6 are the same but I don't know about the 3. Triumph may well have specified grease for that car & I believe grease is also specified for the Spitfire & Lotus also used grease in their trunions. From what I've managed to find out, it seems the reason Triumph specified oil was due to concern that a lack of &/or poor maintenance & the extra weight on the front end of the later TR’s. It seems grease (of the time) when neglected did a very good mimic of Araldite as it aged & could not maintain sufficient sheer strength to act as a suitable lube film within the trunion. This lead to very stiff steering operation & there was service experience of some vertical links sheering at the top of the trunion; probably not a nice experience. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saffrontr Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 To add to the debate Triumph issued a Technical Service Bulletin in September 1972, no 72 F 2, applicable to all models and it read as follows: "We wish to remind all concerned that the front lower steering swivels currently fitted to all Triumph vehicles are to be lubricated with Hypoid SAE 90 oil. The use of regular grease is unsatisfactory and could affect the life of the unit" Notwithstanding the above I would add that it my 31 years of TR6 ownership I have always used grease and when I did the big rebuild in 2003 there was found to be no wear in trunnions or vertical links albeit the trunnions were changed at my insistence. Maybe I was just lucky? Cheers Derek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mickw Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Hi all on the great grease or oil debate, For those that like to sit on the fence semi fluid grease by penrite it either fits both criteria or neither. I was recommended it by a specialist and it appears to work well.The criteria being that the upright is still in one piece ! mick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 As far as I know, in the past grease was composed of oil and water. After a certain time it hardened and so lost all lubrication capability, for that reason heavy machinery required continious lubrication on one side to get rid of the old stuff at the other end. I guess with this in mind BL advised on thick oil. In modern greases water has been replaced by things like lithium etc.... so I think there is little to fear by using grease There are some new oil additives on the market, like Lucas oil stabilizer, very thick and almost impossible to break the oil film, they should be great for trunnions Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 To add to the debate Triumph issued a Technical Service Bulletin in September 1972, no 72 F 2, applicable to all models and it read as follows:"We wish to remind all concerned that the front lower steering swivels currently fitted to all Triumph vehicles are to be lubricated with Hypoid SAE 90 oil. The use of regular grease is unsatisfactory and could affect the life of the unit" Notwithstanding the above I would add that it my 31 years of TR6 ownership I have always used grease and when I did the big rebuild in 2003 there was found to be no wear in trunnions or vertical links albeit the trunnions were changed at my insistence. Maybe I was just lucky? Cheers Derek Didn't the Morgans have a hand pump under the dash to lube something in the front suspension, perhaps they still do !. Was that a trunnion that they were topping up ? Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greasemonkey Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Didn't the Morgans have a hand pump under the dash to lube something in the front suspension, perhaps they still do !. Was that a trunnion that they were topping up ? Stan Yes - they still do!! It's actually a foot operated valve - looks like the old foot type dip-switch - and it's opening an oil line from the engine - at full engine oil pressure. Hence the recommendation to operate it only when the engine is cold - hot oil won't stay in the kingpins(not trunnions) very long!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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