Difference between TR3 and Tr3a boot lid?

[boggie]

Hi All,

 

I am trying to work out if a TR3 boot lid will fit a TR3a. The most obvious difference is the boot fasteners; the TR3 has Dzus fastners which were replaced on the TR3a with a central, lockable handle. Is there anything else? Can the central locking handle be fitted to an earlier lid with some modification?

 

Thanks, Ian

Edited November 23, 2008 by boggie

[vivdownunder]

Just a minor thing Ian, but the TR2/3 boot lid side locks used the Dzuz "Tee" key, rather than Dzuz fasteners themselves.

 

The difficulties with adapting a TR3 boot lid to suit a TR3A is that the 3A lid had a specially shaped piece of metal welded beneath the lock, with captive threads for the two lock escutcheon fixing screws. This has never been available as a spare part. Also the latch bracket is welded to the inside of the boot lid, and this is not available either.

 

You might be able to attach the 3A boot lock to the lid with CSK self tappers, or small metal threads with nuts and washers. However, the harder part is fabricating the bracket for the latch, as this acts as the pivot point and stabilizer for the lock through-rod.

 

I suggest you take a look at a 3A boot lid if possible, to check if you are confident enough to do the above.

 

Then you've got to consider whether you weld up the "Tee" key holes either side, or just leave them as dummies with the chromed leaf covers in place.

 

The hinges and stay rod are interchangeable.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

[Trevor S]

Ian, As ever Viv's answer has been very thorough.

My only point would be that unless you are concerned with originality I would try the fit of the lid with rubber seal fitted before welding up the two Dzus Tee holes. As the replacement lid is not original to the body, and in view of the problems with the current rubber seals available, you may find the ability to latch the bottom corners of the lid invaluable in improving the look/fit. Without them you may have to go to great lengths adjusting the shape of the lid to get the corners to sit flush with the rear apron.

[boggie]

Thanks Guys,

 

Looking at the drawings of both boot lids in the Moss catalogue it appears that the TR3a had raised / pressed areas where the hinges mount. Is this true and if so would an expertly made packing shim be the way to go? Also, having a look at the picture I have been sent of the TR3 boot lid in question it does appear to have a central hole where the locking handle would fit. Were some of the TR3 lids fitted with this rather than the Dzus 'T Key' (Thanks Viv) type?

 

Cheers, Ian

[stuart]

Thanks Guys,

 

Looking at the drawings of both boot lids in the Moss catalogue it appears that the TR3a had raised / pressed areas where the hinges mount. Is this true and if so would an expertly made packing shim be the way to go? Also, having a look at the picture I have been sent of the TR3 boot lid in question it does appear to have a central hole where the locking handle would fit. Were some of the TR3 lids fitted with this rather than the Dzus 'T Key' (Thanks Viv) type?

 

Cheers, Ian

Ian the "Late" post 60000 body shells had the raised hinges, all boot skins before that had flat hinge areas. The TR3 boot lid has a central key operated lock and the two "T" key carriage locks on either side with the teardrop shaped covers. It is possible to fabricate the mountings for a boot handle as I have done it a few times but its not a five minute job and would be made a lot easier if you have a 3a boot lid to copy the detailing from including the slight alteration of the skin to take the plinth for the handle.

Stuart.

[TR 2100]

the "Late" post 60000 body shells had the raised hinges,

all boot skins before that had flat hinge areas.

 

There is another small difference between the boot lids for pre and post

60,001 cars (TR3s obviously follow the earlier style).

 

The boot seal on 3s and earlier 3As were designed to fit on a plain flange,

with a slit in the rubber seal.

Post 60,001, they were designed to fit in a channnel.

 

Did I get that the right way round?

 

AlanR

Edited November 24, 2008 by TR 2100

[stuart]

There is another small difference between the boot lids for pre and post

60,001 cars (TR3s obviously follow the earlier style).

 

The boot seal on 3s and earlier 3As were designed to fit on a plain flange,

with a slit in the rubber seal.

Post 60,001, they were designed to fit in a channnel.

 

Did I get that the right way round?

 

AlanR

No sorry Alan you are wrong way round. Pre 60000 boot seals are in the channel and post are slit ones sitting on a lip.

Stuart.

[boggie]

Thanks all but I am confused. Surely the type of seal should make no difference to the boot lid? The seal is on the main body around the boot 'mouth' on a flange in my case but in a channel on the TR3. Or is it that the heights of the two seals are different?

 

Cheers, Ian

[Ed Davies]

Hi,

 

I have a post 60,000 TR with a pre 60,000 boot lid, it fits but you can tell it's not quite right.

Not having the raised hinges on the lid makes the height wrong, but it's better than no boot lid at all.

Using a packing shim was the way I was going to go..... One day I will get it changed for a post 60000 lid.

 

Cheers, Ed

[angelfj]

Hi,

 

I have a post 60,000 TR with a pre 60,000 boot lid, it fits but you can tell it's not quite right.

Not having the raised hinges on the lid makes the height wrong, but it's better than no boot lid at all.

Using a packing shim was the way I was going to go..... One day I will get it changed for a post 60000 lid.

 

Cheers, Ed

 

In addition to the differences noted above there is another distinctionn. Not sure when (maybe TS60000) but the later cars have an inner boot lid reinforcement made of round tubing as opposed to rectangular cross section tubing like the earlier ones. Mine is TS58476LO and has the rectangular reinforcement.

[vivdownunder]

Hi again Ian,

 

To use a TR3 boot lid for a later post TS60000 TR3A that has raised plinths for the hinges, for a reasonable fit, I'd try a thin gasket beneath the car end of the hinge, and make a thicker gasket for the boot lid end of the hinge. It'll take a really keen eye to notice.

 

A square plastic milk container makes a better thin gasket than the brown paper ones often supplied, which usually leak water and are a rust trap.

 

The thicker gasket can be cut from a flexible poly container such a Tupperware lid. Use two thicknesses if needed.

 

To make a hinge gasket, drill the holes first, then sit it over the hinge and scribe around. Cut where outlined and perfecto !.

 

Beware raiding the wife's precious kitchen containers though, as all hot meals might abruptly cease.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.