Ashley Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 After what seems like a life time spent admiring the TR6, I finally purchased my very own red 1969 example in July of this year. It has not yet seen much use, but has already provided much fun for all the family. I am however concerned over a clutch problem that has started during the past couple of months. Initally I noticed that occasionally the top half of the clutch pedal felt spongy (lacked resistance), but this only occured infrequently. However the problem has become more and more frequent as time goes on, and now requires some attention. The master cylinder looks fairly new and the slave cylinder was renewed just before I bought the car, along with some other work that was done on the clutch. According to the previous owner this other work was a common modification to the actuating mechanism, which involved removing the gearbox to carry out the work. During the time that I have had the car the clutch oil has remained at the full level and looks clean with no signs of froth or bubbbles. If anyone has any suggestions as to what might be causing this problem, I would be very grateful to hear from them. Ashley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
angelfj Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 After what seems like a life time spent admiring the TR6, I finally purchased my very own red 1969 example in July of this year.It has not yet seen much use, but has already provided much fun for all the family. I am however concerned over a clutch problem that has started during the past couple of months. Initally I noticed that occasionally the top half of the clutch pedal felt spongy (lacked resistance), but this only occured infrequently. However the problem has become more and more frequent as time goes on, and now requires some attention. The master cylinder looks fairly new and the slave cylinder was renewed just before I bought the car, along with some other work that was done on the clutch. According to the previous owner this other work was a common modification to the actuating mechanism, which involved removing the gearbox to carry out the work. During the time that I have had the car the clutch oil has remained at the full level and looks clean with no signs of froth or bubbbles. If anyone has any suggestions as to what might be causing this problem, I would be very grateful to hear from them. Ashley Ashley: as starters try bleeding the system. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheeler Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 Ashley Loads of clutch and other TR6 technical information on the Buckeye Triumphs web site http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/ Hope this helps Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 Ashley, are you still able to engage all the gears OK? There is (or should be) a return spring on the clutch pedal (down in the footwell) which will make the pedal feel floppy if it's broken. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 After what seems like a life time spent admiring the TR6, I finally purchased my very own red 1969 example in July of this year.It has not yet seen much use, but has already provided much fun for all the family. I am however concerned over a clutch problem that has started during the past couple of months. Initally I noticed that occasionally the top half of the clutch pedal felt spongy (lacked resistance), but this only occured infrequently. However the problem has become more and more frequent as time goes on, and now requires some attention. The master cylinder looks fairly new and the slave cylinder was renewed just before I bought the car, along with some other work that was done on the clutch. According to the previous owner this other work was a common modification to the actuating mechanism, which involved removing the gearbox to carry out the work. During the time that I have had the car the clutch oil has remained at the full level and looks clean with no signs of froth or bubbbles. If anyone has any suggestions as to what might be causing this problem, I would be very grateful to hear from them. Ashley Welcome Ashley and congratulations on your recent acquisition. I wonder of you have any more info about these common modifications to the actuating mechanism ?. In general the common mods include a better release bearing, better shaft bushes and a better tapered bolt, perhaps drilled and pinned and/or wired. None of these mods are likely to make the clutch feel spongy but a fractured fork bolt might. To start with I would have someone observe the slave end of the system while another person moves the clutch pedal through the spongy part of its travel. If you observe little or no forward movement of the rod at this time you are probably looking at a hydraulic problem and as Frank suggests, bleeding the system would be a good start. Make sure the bleed valve on the slave cylinder is at the top as it will purge better with that configuration. Let us know how that goes. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley Posted October 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 Ashley, are you still able to engage all the gears OK?There is (or should be) a return spring on the clutch pedal (down in the footwell) which will make the pedal feel floppy if it's broken. Jerry Thanks Jerrry. The return spring seems to be functioning correctly, and the clutch will operate. However, when depressing the pedal and the first half of travel feels spongy I do have difficulty selecting the gears. The next shift can feel fine and and the gear will happily engage. I will try bleeding the system next. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley Posted October 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 Welcome Ashley and congratulations on your recent acquisition. I wonder of you have any more info about these common modifications to the actuating mechanism ?. In general the common mods include a better release bearing, better shaft bushes and a better tapered bolt, perhaps drilled and pinned and/or wired. None of these mods are likely to make the clutch feel spongy but a fractured fork bolt might. To start with I would have someone observe the slave end of the system while another person moves the clutch pedal through the spongy part of its travel. If you observe little or no forward movement of the rod at this time you are probably looking at a hydraulic problem and as Frank suggests, bleeding the system would be a good start. Make sure the bleed valve on the slave cylinder is at the top as it will purge better with that configuration. Let us know how that goes. Stan Hi Stan. Thanks for your response. I will be following your advise, and hope that it can solve this problem. I will be unable to give immediate feed back on how I get on, due to another small complictation that has occured today. Unable to resist the fine weather, and inspite of my spongy clutch, I took the car out on some made up excuse that I needed something from town. Unfortunately by the time I got there the car's idle speed had increased by 1000rpm. After some investigate this afternoon, it appears that the tensioning spring on the cold start manifold cam is no longer. I will therefore first try to locate a new linkage, before attempting my little ramps with a intermittently spongy clutch and a very high idle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B Fitzpatrick Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 After what seems like a life time spent admiring the TR6, I finally purchased my very own red 1969 example in July of this year.It has not yet seen much use, but has already provided much fun for all the family. I am however concerned over a clutch problem that has started during the past couple of months. Initally I noticed that occasionally the top half of the clutch pedal felt spongy (lacked resistance), but this only occured infrequently. However the problem has become more and more frequent as time goes on, and now requires some attention. The master cylinder looks fairly new and the slave cylinder was renewed just before I bought the car, along with some other work that was done on the clutch. According to the previous owner this other work was a common modification to the actuating mechanism, which involved removing the gearbox to carry out the work. During the time that I have had the car the clutch oil has remained at the full level and looks clean with no signs of froth or bubbbles. If anyone has any suggestions as to what might be causing this problem, I would be very grateful to hear from them. Ashley Congratulations Ashley on your purchase and enjoy it. I too have just resolved a clutch problem on my 6, which is similar in presentation to yours. I found the Search option located on the top right hand corner of the screen (in among 'calander' 'members' and 'help') very useful especially if you use the advanced search option. For example note the way the slave cylinder is set up - is the bleed nipple on the top or bottom? - tips like this are all there by guys who went before us. I sorted my problem by getting new Master cylinder and copper pipe and flexi hose as the old pipe set up to the master cylinder had rusted and did not seat back properly after I tried replacing seals on the original master cylinder. Hope you get the problem sorted soon. regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley Posted November 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Congratulations Ashley on your purchase and enjoy it. I too have just resolved a clutch problem on my 6, which is similar in presentation to yours. I found the Search option located on the top right hand corner of the screen (in among 'calander' 'members' and 'help') very useful especially if you use the advanced search option. For example note the way the slave cylinder is set up - is the bleed nipple on the top or bottom? - tips like this are all there by guys who went before us. I sorted my problem by getting new Master cylinder and copper pipe and flexi hose as the old pipe set up to the master cylinder had rusted and did not seat back properly after I tried replacing seals on the original master cylinder. Hope you get the problem sorted soon. regards Thanks for the info Ben. I am sorry that I did not reply sooner, but I have had some heavy work commitments abroad and have not checked the forum or even started on the car. However thanks for the good advise, it is always comforting to know that others have solved similar problems. All the best Ashley. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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