i8pig Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 Hi, Does anybody have any experience of converting the TR4 handbrake to the 4A style tunnel mounted jobby? Information like is a kit available and, the obvious, is it easy? would be appreciated. I tend to use the 4 for european touring and, being bigger than I should be, the fly off gets in the way for a comfortable long drive. Thanks Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mandarawessels Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 Hi,Does anybody have any experience of converting the TR4 handbrake to the 4A style tunnel mounted jobby? Information like is a kit available and, the obvious, is it easy? would be appreciated. I tend to use the 4 for european touring and, being bigger than I should be, the fly off gets in the way for a comfortable long drive. Thanks Steve hI STEVE, AS I UNDERSTAND IT THE TR4 HANDBRAKE OPERATION IS FAR SUPERIOR TO THE TR4A BRAKE, I WOULD THNK TWICE! jOHN Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 John is absolutely correct - don't do it. The early TR2-4 handbrake is far better. Even a short-arse like me has trouble with the floor-mounted handbrake at first, but one's driving position quickly adapts. I don't know if it's feasible to bend or otherwise modify the lever itself, but I would investigate this rather than try to fit the later style (if that is possible). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4Mal Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 I've heard that the 4 handbrake is better than the 4A - I had considered it during my rebuild but was put off it!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr4u2 Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 I'm part way through this on my rebuild: sourced handbrake and 4A cables via dreaded ebay got tunnel bracket from trbitz off a scrapper have welded bracket on just need to work out how to secure cables to axle quite a lot involved if your car is not in bits like mine regards adrian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 The Works TR4 Rally cars had to have the handbrake mounted on the propshaft tunnel because the large steel plate welded to the underside of the chassis (to allow the cars to slide over boulders) meant that there would have been no access whatsoever to the bottom end of the lever, so it would not have been possible to connect the cable to the lever. I can tell you that the tunnel-mounted lever on 4VC is powerful and always records high figures in the MOT (in fact, the same as the footbrake on the rear). Having driven TR2s in the 1960s, I think the difference for a tunnel-mounted lever on a TR4 is minimal - however, I do read threads on the Forum which suggest that handbrakes on IRS cars don't work well, which is a puzzle. The source of the fly-off handbrake lever on the Works TR4s has never been identified - it seems to differ from anything that Triumph were using at the time! However, Neil Revington would be the person most able to suggest an alternative which could be mounted on the propshaft tunnel. The cable to the axle is shorter, of course. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 I can tell you that the tunnel-mounted lever on 4VC is powerful and always records high figures in the MOT (in fact, the same as the footbrake on the rear). Having driven TR2s in the 1960s, I think the difference for a tunnel-mounted lever on a TR4 is minimal - however, I do read threads on the Forum which suggest that handbrakes on IRS cars don't work well, which is a puzzle. That's interesting because at the last MOT on Lynda's TR4A, the tester commented that the handbrake was exceptionally impressive and better than most modern cars! I guess he's got a much stronger left arm than I have. To be safe when parking on a slope, I have to use two hands to get the handbrake fully on. Lynda can't even get it to bite, so we need to do one of the mods discussed elsewhere on the forum (e.g. cable extenders or pivot relocation). At least we know the problem lies with the driver rather than poor adjustment of the brakes and cables. Needless to say, I have no problem with the handbrake on my TR3A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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