exhaust

[mandarawessels]

hi

 

can anyone tell me wether the exhaust on a tr4 runs through the square box in the middle of the chassis?

Thanks,

John

[Rhodri]

Yes John, it does, and the best of luck fitting it !!

Rod

[woodward]

Yes.

[mandarawessels]

thanks guys

the manual is not clear and as the car came without an exhaust, I didn't know!!

foto is very helpful as is the warning!!

many thanks

John

[stuart]

When fitting it its best to get the clamps so they are just gripping and then adjust each piece individually to give the best clearance and obviously dont fit your "U" clamps facind downwards or its very easy to pull it all off! Also give a small allowance to the fact that the torque of the engine will lift the exhaust a little on sudden throttle changes even with new mounts.

Stuart.

[mandarawessels]

When fitting it its best to get the clamps so they are just gripping and then adjust each piece individually to give the best clearance and obviously dont fit your "U" clamps facind downwards or its very easy to pull it all off! Also give a small allowance to the fact that the torque of the engine will lift the exhaust a little on sudden throttle changes even with new mounts.

Stuart.

thanks Stuart.

cheers,

john

[ianc]

An important item is the bracket 130888, which is bolted to the gearbox mounting and provides a secure fixing for the exhaust before it enters the "hole" in the centre of the chassis. Without this bracket, the exhaust is far more likely to move around under extreme conditions and clout the inside of the "hole".

Although introduced for the TR4, this bracket can be fitted to the TR2/3/3A and is a very worthwhile improvement.

Ian Cornish

[mandarawessels]

An important item is the bracket 130888, which is bolted to the gearbox mounting and provides a secure fixing for the exhaust before it enters the "hole" in the centre of the chassis. Without this bracket, the exhaust is far more likely to move around under extreme conditions and clout the inside of the "hole".

Although introduced for the TR4, this bracket can be fitted to the TR2/3/3A and is a very worthwhile improvement.

Ian Cornish

THat bracket is indeed a good thing, and i see now why some of you said good luck or have fun!!

I have about 5-6 mm clearance between down pipe and chassis at the front

Is that enough?

As far as the 2 silencers is concerned, I am hampered by the fact that the rear axle is still to low due to the lack of weight

tx, John

[stuart]

THat bracket is indeed a good thing, and i see now why some of you said good luck or have fun!!

I have about 5-6 mm clearance between down pipe and chassis at the front

Is that enough?

As far as the 2 silencers is concerned, I am hampered by the fact that the rear axle is still to low due to the lack of weight

tx, John

John the 5/6mm clearance may be ok depending on your state of tune and how good your engine mounts are. Poor mounts and a highly tuned engine will move over more than that when pulling hard! Rear axle position is immaterial when fitting exhaust as the lowest position of the axle still must miss the exhaust.

Stuart

[mandarawessels]

thanks Stuart.

cheers

john

[ianc]

A fairly common modification (especially with 4-brach exhaust systems) is to remove the inward pointing lip on the bottom of the chassis at the place where the exhaust pipe gets very close to (or touching) the chassis before it curves towards the centre "box", through which it has to pass. It is possible to remove this lip in situ, using a sharp pad saw and a lot of patience (I have done it!), but rather easier if the exhaust is out of the car.

Ian Cornish

[mandarawessels]

A fairly common modification (especially with 4-brach exhaust systems) is to remove the inward pointing lip on the bottom of the chassis at the place where the exhaust pipe gets very close to (or touching) the chassis before it curves towards the centre "box", through which it has to pass. It is possible to remove this lip in situ, using a sharp pad saw and a lot of patience (I have done it!), but rather easier if the exhaust is out of the car.

Ian Cornish

I'll try and get a picture on here.

the exhaust's overall fit is pretty good, just the clearance at the downpipe.....

Edited September 10, 2008 by mandarawessels

[stuart]

I'll try and get a picture on here.

the exhaust's overall fit is pretty good, just the clearance at the downpipe.....

It looks as if thats about the best clearance you are going to get anyway. Do you have the engine stabiliser bar that was fitted to the 4s as that may stop a lot of movement.

Stuart.

[mandarawessels]

It looks as if thats about the best clearance you are going to get anyway. Do you have the engine stabiliser bar that was fitted to the 4s as that may stop a lot of movement.

Stuart.

 

I,m not aware of any such bar.

Where does it fit?

tx, John

[stuart]

I,m not aware of any such bar.

Where does it fit?

tx, John

Moss catalogue page 17 items number 58-61 not always fitted but if you are worried about engine movement it may be an idea to try and track one down. (I havent seen one fitted for years)

Stuart.

[TR 2100]

I,m not aware of any such bar.

Where does it fit?

tx, John

 

I have to confess my ignorance - until quite recently. In fact, I even queried it

with a guy in the States who had an auction for a stainless replica. But it does

exist and was fitted.

 

The 'guy' is Joe Alexander - A1 guy - has an Ambro under restoration and makes a few

TR components, more as a hobby than anything else. I also got a TR4 alloy front plate

from him. I haven't seen him auction a stabiliser for a while, but chances are he still

has some. He calls them torque arms. Joe's comment, when I queried it with him, was :

 

The torque arm is absolutely positively a feature on the original TR4s. I encountered them

over the years. They mainly get lost and I question their functional value.

But I left mine off while reverse engineering for production. The result was a crushed lip on

my velocity stack, so I THINK it actually does do something. My production canot be told

from original, for whatever that is worth.

 

Check the Parts Book, assuming you have one. It's on Page 2 as part of the front plate,

listed as a bracket and buffer but not shown in the exploded parts.

 

I can't find a photo at the moment - I will add one if I do, but I too have my doubts as to

how effective they really are. Even my very original one-careful-mechanic-owner-from-new

car didn't have it fitted.

 

AlanR

Edited September 11, 2008 by TR 2100

[stuart]

I have to confess my ignorance - until quite recently. In fact, I even queried it

with a guy in the States who had an auction for a stainless replica. But it does

exist and was fitted.

 

The 'guy' is Joe Alexander - A1 guy - has an Ambro under restoration and makes a few

TR components, more as a hobby than anything else. I also got a TR4 alloy front plate

from him. I haven't seen him auction a stabiliser for a while, but chances are he still

has some. He calls them torque arms. Joe's comment, when I queried it with him, was :

 

The torque arm is absolutely positively a feature on the original TR4s. I encountered them

over the years. They mainly get lost and I question their functional value.

But I left mine off while reverse engineering for production. The result was a crushed lip on

my velocity stack, so I THINK it actually does do something. My production canot be told

from original, for whatever that is worth.

 

Check the Parts Book, assuming you have one. It's on Page 2 as part of the front plate,

listed as a bracket and buffer but not shown in the exploded parts.

 

I can't find a photo at the moment - I will add one if I do, but I too have my doubts as to

how effective they really are. Even my very original one-careful-mechanic-owner-from-new

car didn't have it fitted.

 

AlanR

Alan they were fitted sporadically during production of the 4. But I have no idea why they didnt fit them to all of them.

I can well understand Joes comments as if there is only minimal clearance anywhere then a torquey engine will tend to twist the mounts.

Stuart.

[Rhodri]

My '62 ex USA TR4 has one fitted. It is a poor photo but it is the dark strip of metal appearing to run from the bottom left of the pulley to the back of the steering rack clamp. It, in fact, bolts to the bottom of the engine plate with two bolts and the other end has a rubber snubber, like the flat rubbers for the rear of the bonnet. This rubber part will strike the bottom of the suspension turret.

 

I would have thought that an arm, near the top of the engine going out at 90* would be better, but I suppose there is nowhere to fit it to take the force through the chassis rather than the thin bodywork.

[RAHTR4]

My '62 ex USA TR4 has one fitted. It is a poor photo but it is the dark strip of metal appearing to run from the bottom left of the pulley to the back of the steering rack clamp. It, in fact, bolts to the bottom of the engine plate with two bolts and the other end has a rubber snubber, like the flat rubbers for the rear of the bonnet. This rubber part will strike the bottom of the suspension turret.

 

I would have thought that an arm, near the top of the engine going out at 90* would be better, but I suppose there is nowhere to fit it to take the force through the chassis rather than the thin bodywork.

 

Rod,

I was worried about the small gaps between the chassis and the exhaust pipes so I have fitted an additional engine stay on the opposite side of the engine and at the top of the block.

 

This is a mod that Ian Cornish made up and fitted to his ex-Works car, the details were published in TRAction but it was some years ago.

 

It is a very well thought out mod and connects the top of the front engine plate back to the chassis suspension turret by the cross tube via a threaded rod, all with hard rubber bushes the allow some movement - all much better than the original Triumph idea.

 

I have sent you a copy of the article by e-mail.

 

If anyone else whats a copy just send me a PM with an e-mail address.

 

Regards, Richard

[woodward]

Here are some more photos of said torque bracket. You screw a bonnet stop (flat type) into the end of it. Typical Triumph. The two holes in the other photo beneath the timing cover are where it fits. Not sure if it will help you or not but this is what it looks like.

 

Myles

Edited September 11, 2008 by woodward

[ianc]

The article mentioned, describing the engine restraint which I had devised, was in TRaction 130. I felt that the "buffer" devised and produced by Triumph could not provide sufficient restraint for my purposes, as the movement about which I had concerns was taking place much higher up the engine. My restraint system is not perfect, as the restraint bar is not at right angles to the line of the engine, but it has a number of major advantages:

(a) it involves no drilling or welding on the car itself

( it can be made by anyone with a vice, electric drill and some hand tools

© it is cheap

(d) it works very well and solved my problems, as evidenced by the Blutak which I placed on the right inner wing to see just how far the front air cleaner moved!

Ian Cornish