Richardtr3a Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 On the run to Prescott I noticed that after 35 miles the ammeter was showing a charge of 15 amps and I remember Don Eliot sending a thread on the forum about his regulator doing this and that it boiled the battery. So I kept the headlights on all the way and the same on my return journey in all about 275 miles. This kept the ammeter needle just in the charging zone, when it wasn't jumping around wildly. Back in the garage at home, I topped up the battery and 3/4 litre of distilled water was used up. I remember that Don suggested adjusting the output from the control box and I can not remember how it ended, or how to do it. This might be better as a PM but I thought that it might be of interest to any one else in a fight to the death with the control box, as I am. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 My neighbour who has more electrical experience than me used an analogue voltmeter 18 years ago when he turned mine down from the high setting it had for the voltage output we measured. After that he re-set it to what the books recommend, namely 12.7 to 13.3 volts. Mine was set to 13.2 volts and last year it still read that. This is the original voltage regulator that came with the car new on May 23, 1958 (next Friday, "TRusty" will be celebrating it 50th. I believe that the analogue voltmeter is reported to make it easier than a digital type. BTW, my battery at that voltage has been causing a bit of spitting for the last few years so I have made a top cover that goes over the vented battery caps to prevent the spitting acid from ruining the chrome on my valve cover and the paint in the inside of the bonnet above the battery. So far, it works. Haynes explains how to adjust it all on page 218 of "TR2 to TR4 Manual". Google control box, Lucas voltage regulator and I'm sure you'll find all about it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 Richard - With such a super-charged battery, you could have pulled off the connectons from the generator, or where the wires connect to the voltage regulator, and you could have driven home "on the battery". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 Here's a photo of the battery cover I made. I bought a tray for knives, forks and spoons for about 50 pence and cut off the long part for the knives. Then I drilled two holes for the securing rods. I used two rods that are used for the battery bar holder. It keeps the spitting acid from going where I don't want it to go. And it only takes a minute to remove it before the concours judges arrive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Satchwell Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 On the run to Prescott I noticed that after 35 miles the ammeter was showing a charge of 15 amps and I remember Don Eliot sending a thread on the forum about his regulator doing this and that it boiled the battery. So I kept the headlights on all the way and the same on my return journey in all about 275 miles. This kept the ammeter needle just in the charging zone, when it wasn't jumping around wildly. Back in the garage at home, I topped up the battery and 3/4 litre of distilled water was used up. I remember that Don suggested adjusting the output from the control box and I can not remember how it ended, or how to do it. This might be better as a PM but I thought that it might be of interest to any one else in a fight to the death with the control box, as I am. Hello Richard, We were at Prescott this W/E and did about 200miles round trip to and from Leicestershire with no problems. The battery has a colour window which indicates state of charge, green OK black medium and white discharged( I find this useful and reasures that all is OK). I am also running control box and dynamo, but would like to know what is normal to see on the ammeter. On start up the ammeter charges up to 15amps up to about 2000 rpm then flicks back to zero at higher revs, when driving the needle sits around zero but not into the negative charge, then when say at junctions shows a small charge again. With lights etc you can see a discharge at low revs but when going along charge zero's. Perhaps all is OK the battery showed green when we got home. I had problems when I got the car last year, this turned out to be a loose fan belt, I also lightly cleaned the VR contacts and no flat battery since, perhaps the problem I have is a visible ammeter ! Best of luck David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 David - Your description tells me that your system is working as it should. No need to worry. I only drive my 1958 TR3A from May to October (we had over 3.5 meters of new-fallen snow this past winter for a new record) so the battery sits on my workbench all winter. When I put it back in towards the end of April, and for the first few weeks of driving, the ammeter shows it's charging at 10 to 15 amps till the battery is fully recharged, then it performs just like yours. If I think mine is getting overcharged - say on a trip where I drive 600 to 700 miles a day, I'll turn on the headlights as Richard did, but when I turn on my 12" Kenlowe fan, it shows about minus 5 amp discharge. For all those who love Lucas, here is the ultimate information page that tells you all you'll ever need to know about Lucas - or already know! http://members.tripod.com/~tcotrel/lucas.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 David - Your description tells me that your system is working as it should. No need to worry. I only drive my 1958 TR3A from May to October (we had over 3.5 meters of new-fallen snow this past winter for a new record) so the battery sits on my workbench all winter. When I put it back in towards the end of April, and for the first few weeks of driving, the ammeter shows it's charging at 10 to 15 amps till the battery is fully recharged, then it performs just like yours. If I think mine is getting overcharged - say on a trip where I drive 600 to 700 miles a day, I'll turn on the headlights as Richard did, but when I turn on my 12" Kenlowe fan, it shows about minus 5 amp discharge. For all those who love Lucas, here is the ultimate information page that tells you all you'll ever need to know about Lucas - or already know! http://members.tripod.com/~tcotrel/lucas.html Nice link Don!! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 Nice link Don!! Stuart. Absolutely - the PoD strikes again (and I thought my screen had bitten the dust) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Satchwell Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 David - Your description tells me that your system is working as it should. No need to worry. I only drive my 1958 TR3A from May to October (we had over 3.5 meters of new-fallen snow this past winter for a new record) so the battery sits on my workbench all winter. When I put it back in towards the end of April, and for the first few weeks of driving, the ammeter shows it's charging at 10 to 15 amps till the battery is fully recharged, then it performs just like yours. If I think mine is getting overcharged - say on a trip where I drive 600 to 700 miles a day, I'll turn on the headlights as Richard did, but when I turn on my 12" Kenlowe fan, it shows about minus 5 amp discharge. For all those who love Lucas, here is the ultimate information page that tells you all you'll ever need to know about Lucas - or already know! http://members.tripod.com/~tcotrel/lucas.html Don, Thanks for the reply and the link, prince off darkness strikes again ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 Don, I remember that you fitted a new control box and that it burst into flames immediately, and you replaced the old one. Over the weekend at Prescott I met an auto electrician who has been reading my threads about this set up. His original control box failed and he purchased a brand new one, presumably Indian made. Before fitting he opened it up and on inspection found that one insulating cardboard disc was on the wrong side of the bracket supporting the windings. If he had connected it up it would have caused a melt down. He repaired it and it has worked very well ever since. He took one look at my car and found an earth wire fallen off in the first 30 seconds. I thought that I was on top of the lights at least. It would be great if some of these clever electricians lived near me. It was a great week end and I am hoping for some explanation on why my battery is boiling away the water. There is no spitting and I am amazed to see the steps Don has had to go to to protect his engine bay. It looks very inventive. I may call my battery supplier tomorrow. Any help would be gratefully received. Richard and Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted June 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2008 Don, This should be a personal message as I think everyone is bored to tears with my control box obsession. However I have reduced the regulator by one volt to 14.5. This is not according to the workshop manual. However the ammeter needle sits at just over charge and shows discharge if I turn on the lights. I will be giving it a good long journey soon and have measured the battery acid level. I will let you know if the battery fails or if it can cope. Yours, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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