foster461 Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 So today is the big day and I'm going to re-install the newly built engine into the newly refurbed engine bay http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos.../DSC_0005-3.jpg The engine was assembled with lots of assembly lube and I have some break in oil plus a zddp additive that I plan to use for the 1st 20 mins. The instructions that came with the cam suggest running at 2000 rpm for 20 mins then change the oil and filter. I would like to build some oil pressure and get some oil into the galleries and bearings etc before I try and start it for the first time (that wont happen until after next week due to work travel). I understand that I can spin the oil pump with a drill in reverse but I'm wondering how to achieve that.. with the dizzy removed and the oil pump/dizzy drive gear removed I can see the slot in the top of the oil pump so is this just a matter of fabricatiing a suitable implement to fit in that slot and chuck into the drill ?. How fast does the pump need to be turned and for how long before I should see oil pressure ?. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 (edited) So today is the big day and I'm going to re-install the newly built engine into the newly refurbed engine bay http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos.../DSC_0005-3.jpg The engine was assembled with lots of assembly lube and I have some break in oil plus a zddp additive that I plan to use for the 1st 20 mins. The instructions that came with the cam suggest running at 2000 rpm for 20 mins then change the oil and filter. I would like to build some oil pressure and get some oil into the galleries and bearings etc before I try and start it for the first time (that wont happen until after next week due to work travel). I understand that I can spin the oil pump with a drill in reverse but I'm wondering how to achieve that.. with the dizzy removed and the oil pump/dizzy drive gear removed I can see the slot in the top of the oil pump so is this just a matter of fabricatiing a suitable implement to fit in that slot and chuck into the drill ?. How fast does the pump need to be turned and for how long before I should see oil pressure ?. Stan Stan thats pretty much it. It shouldnt take more than a couple of minutes or so to get some pressure up provided you have filled the filter right up with oil ( thats assuming you have a spin on set up) or if you have standard filter then it will take longer.No point in spinning the drill too fast as Dizzys turn at engine RPM. Stuart. Edited May 14, 2008 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted May 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 Stan thats pretty much it. It shouldnt take more than a couple of minutes or so to get some pressure up provided you have filled the filter right up with oil ( thats assuming you have a spin on set up) or if you have standard filter then it will take longer.No point in spinning the drill too fast as Dizzys turn at engine RPM. Stuart. Thanks Stuart and thanks for the reminder about pre-filling the spin on filter. I started this engine and engine bay project in December and I have spent every available hour since then working on it and I doubt that I will be driving it before early June. It is easy to see how you can spend 18 years on a full DIY restoration.. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 Stan My motor came dry assembled from TRGB who rebuilt & tuned the unit. All I did was diss the ignition & fuel pump, remove the plugs & crank it on the starter; as long as the pump has been primed properly (Vaseline usually), it will pick up pretty quickly & should show full pressure after a very short time. To avoid cooking the starter motor, run it, say, 5 bursts of 20 seconds with 20 seconds in between each burst & then leave it to cool down for 10 minutes & start again but in my experience you wont have to; the first lot should see full pressure on the gauge. Good luck with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 Yes, just a rod with a clone of the dizzy drive dog on the end. Don't thread it, well not right-hand anyway. Judging by my experience of spinning up a Rover V8, you might need quite a powerful drill, and you'll need to keep a tight hold of it, otherwise the drive will stand still while you rotate. Hope all goes well. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 ... and you'll need to keep a tight hold of it, otherwise the drive will stand still while you rotate. Some hilarious images flashed in my head when I read this!!! Rgds Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 So today is the big day and I'm going to re-install the newly built engine into the newly refurbed engine bay http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos.../DSC_0005-3.jpg The engine was assembled with lots of assembly lube and I have some break in oil plus a zddp additive that I plan to use for the 1st 20 mins. The instructions that came with the cam suggest running at 2000 rpm for 20 mins then change the oil and filter. I would like to build some oil pressure and get some oil into the galleries and bearings etc before I try and start it for the first time (that wont happen until after next week due to work travel). I understand that I can spin the oil pump with a drill in reverse but I'm wondering how to achieve that.. with the dizzy removed and the oil pump/dizzy drive gear removed I can see the slot in the top of the oil pump so is this just a matter of fabricatiing a suitable implement to fit in that slot and chuck into the drill ?. How fast does the pump need to be turned and for how long before I should see oil pressure ?. Stan i did this with my car with a piece of pipe & battery drill result oil up the pipe and everywhere.dont bother. by the time youve managed to get the dizzy back in the slots.[you cant see the drive because it will be covered in oil] you wont have gained anything.fill the oil filter and do as richard suggests. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 Hi Stan, You can spend a lot of time cleaning up after the drill technique. You'll curse the man who suggested it. Personally I'd rather spin it on the starter with plugs out and fuel feed shut off - to get some oil around the system, with minimum load on the bottom end . . . Then replace plugs, fuel feed, and fire up. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
piman Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 Hello Stan, I agree with Richard and Alec, I see no reason to prime the system with an electric drill. Incidentally, I have noticed posts on American websites referring to zddp, but I have never heard of it here in the U.K.? Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted May 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 Hello Stan, I agree with Richard and Alec, I see no reason to prime the system with an electric drill. Incidentally, I have noticed posts on American websites referring to zddp, but I have never heard of it here in the U.K.? Alec ok, thanks guys. I will ixnay the drill idea. The last thing I want with a newly painted engine and engine bay is to spray oil all over the place. That will happen naturally soon enough :-) Re zddp, it may be different outside of the US but over here zddp has gradually been reduced in our engine oil due I think to catalytic converter issues but the result for flat tappet engines like ours has been a pattern of premature tappet and cam failures that started when zddp levels began to drop. As a result we need to protect our engines either by adding zddp as an additive or using specialized engine oils like Shell Rotella that are still available with higher levels of zddp and we have several alternatives available. I wondered if this was urban legend like valve seat recession but the machine shop that did my machine work and specialised in racing engines said their experience supports the zddp reduction theory and they now recommend and use zddp additives in the older flat tappet engines. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted May 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 The engine and tranny are back in the car thanks to some help from another local club member. Here is yours truly trying to reach the breaker bar that adjusts the engine tilt. I was about two feet too short to reach it with the crane on full extension and full elevation so I enlisted the steps.. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos.../DSC_0004-1.jpg Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 Can’t you just feel the amount of concentration & apprehension in there! Do you always work in your carpet slippers Stan? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted May 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 Do you always work in your carpet slippers Stan? Well thank you for asking Richard and yes, I do often work in slippers. During these projects I keep most of the bits in the basement so that means I am constantly going between the garage and the basement which takes me through the kitchen. So I have an old pair of slippers in the garage that I can slip off and put on the house slippers and not track whatever I have recently been working with through the house. These are alsy very comfortable, just like my pink.. oh never mind.. For yard work or anything that involves heavy objects I have a pair of steel reinforced wellies. I'll model the wellies for you sometime. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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