Play in front wheel.

[Eyetee]

Cant comment on the felt thickness...

But the studs could have the thread cut extended further with a tap and die set or by a local machine shop.

[stuart]

Guy I had to get a couple of bearing sets for Nigel Lay on Saturday to get him out of trouble before his holidays and the felt seals didnt seem quite as thick as that, however being felt I would have thought that they would compressed ok and besides that any attempt at cutting would destroy them. If there is a machine shop anywhere on your island they should be able to thread your studs further without too much problem. The long studs are as you say to cope with spacers.

Stuart.

[Jersey Royal]

Thanks Stuart and Eyetee,

 

For your suggestion to re thread the studs, i didnt think of that. Good idea there are a couple of engineering shops over here, so i will do that.

 

I have the spring back in on one side, went back fine. My only possible query is...

 

 

I have put back new wishbone to chassis brackets, and they seem to be slightly narrower and their ends, i did open them a little, even so i had to push in the wishbone with the new bushes. Should the fit be as tight as that, do i need to take it apart and adjust them further?

 

Regards

 

 

Guy

(wish i had never started this one)

[stuart]

Guy sometimes those brackets are powder coated and that makes them a bit tight . If you assemble the suspension without the spring and pan as a trial first it should move up and down in Pete Cox,s words "Stiffly but very accurately up and down" Quoted from Moss parts book! If you need any more info give the workshop a ring on 01726 882680.

Stuart.

Edited September 11, 2007 by stuart

[Jersey Royal]

Guy sometimes those brackets are powder coated and that makes them a bit tight . If you assemble the suspension without the spring and pan as a trial first it should move up and down in Pete Cox,s words "Stiffly but very accurately up and down" Quoted from Moss parts book! If you need any more info give the workshop a ring on 01726 882680.

Stuart.

 

Thanks Stuart,

 

It does move stiffly. i will compare to the other side once i have spring out.

 

Thanks again.

 

Regards

 

Guy

[John L]

Concerning the thickness of the felt seal, its quoted in the book by Roger Williams at the bottom of page 129. You could compare them with the ones taken out? It may be difficult to get the free play in the bearing correct otherwise.

 

John

[stuart]

Concerning the thickness of the felt seal, its quoted in the book by Roger Williams at the bottom of page 129. You could compare them with the ones taken out? It may be difficult to get the free play in the bearing correct otherwise.

 

John

I would like to know how you could cut them down accurately with a razor blade.

Stuart.

[Jersey Royal]

Hi Chaps,

 

Both sides now back together apart from the hubs, as have decided to replace the bolts that hold the brake caliper mounting disc in place on the vertical link, as i had knackered one of the threads.

 

With regards to the extra long studs, the engineering shop has recommended to me that it would be easier to adjust the sleeve type nuts (Revolution Wheels). Which concurs with advice from Revington, Basicaly they are drilling out the centre of the sleeve sufficiently for it to go over the shank (Unthreaded) part of the new stud. These sleeve type nuts are threaded along their entire length, so i will not be loosing any thread.

 

Looking through the Haynes manual page 195 item 9, there is refernce to "hub grease catcher" what is that ? i can see any refernce to it in the diagram oposite.

 

The new oil seals shown in earlier post are now being soaked in clean oil. Would it be be a good idea to put these oil seals under load to see if the will compress properly.

 

I could put them between to large washers and torque up to 5 lb /ft and back of slighly, to see if they will compress. ?

 

When the oil seal is in place if you look at it on the stub, should the inner circumference of the metal line up with the lip of the vertical link and the bearing against it.

 

 

One more question ..Is it only the inner lower wishbone bushes, upper wishbone bushes and trunnion that should be torqued up, when the wheels are on,car on the deck with two passengers ? All other nuts including wishbone mounting brackets can be done with car on stands?

 

Soory for all the questions, hopefully soon the car will be back on the road, cant wait.. am getting withdrawal symptoms.

 

Regards

 

Guy

[stuart]

Hi Chaps,

 

Both sides now back together apart from the hubs, as have decided to replace the bolts that hold the brake caliper mounting disc in place on the vertical link, as i had knackered one of the threads.

 

With regards to the extra long studs, the engineering shop has recommended to me that it would be easier to adjust the sleeve type nuts (Revolution Wheels). Which concurs with advice from Revington, Basicaly they are drilling out the centre of the sleeve sufficiently for it to go over the shank (Unthreaded) part of the new stud. These sleeve type nuts are threaded along their entire length, so i will not be loosing any thread.

 

Looking through the Haynes manual page 195 item 9, there is refernce to "hub grease catcher" what is that ? i can see any refernce to it in the diagram oposite.

 

The new oil seals shown in earlier post are now being soaked in clean oil. Would it be be a good idea to put these oil seals under load to see if the will compress properly.

 

I could put them between to large washers and torque up to 5 lb /ft and back of slighly, to see if they will compress. ?

 

When the oil seal is in place if you look at it on the stub, should the inner circumference of the metal line up with the lip of the vertical link and the bearing against it.

One more question ..Is it only the inner lower wishbone bushes, upper wishbone bushes and trunnion that should be torqued up, when the wheels are on,car on the deck with two passengers ? All other nuts including wishbone mounting brackets can be done with car on stands?

 

Soory for all the questions, hopefully soon the car will be back on the road, cant wait.. am getting withdrawal symptoms.

 

Regards

 

Guy

Guy I have talked to Jeff Marks at Moss about the oil seals and the general consensus is that the depth of the seals is ok and will compress you just need to check that they sit ok to the back of the inner bearing when fitted to the hub as there has been some question about the seal inner diameter. You are correct about the need to torque up the inner top bushes/ the outer lower and inner lower bushes when the suspension is in the loaded position. All other bolts can be wound up when building up.

Stuart.

Edited September 15, 2007 by stuart

[Jersey Royal]

Guy I have talked to Jeff Marks at Moss about the oil seals and the general consensus is that the depth of the seals is ok and will compress you just need to check that they sit ok to the back of the inner bearing when fitted to the hub as there has been some question about the seal inner diameter. You are correct about the need to torque up the inner top bushes/ the outer lower and inner lower bushes when the suspension is in the loaded position. All other bolts can be wound up when building up.

Stuart.

 

 

Stuart

 

Thanks,

 

Think i will fit seal and bearings torque the hub and turn back the required flats, then take off hub and see how that the oil seal is ok.

 

I reckon i owe you a few pints by now at Malvern 08

 

Best Regards

 

Guy

[Jersey Royal]

Hi All,

 

 

My struts arrived today and have fitted poly and then metal sleeve.

 

However i am not particularly happy with what i have done. Basically greased up Superpro bush with supplied lub and pressed it in with vice with wooden jaws, no problem with that part, a nice fit.

 

I then lubricated the sleeve and pressed that in, end result one side of the bush fits fine and the other sticks out an extra couple of mm

 

 

Thinking back i have probably the same situation on the lower wishbone bushes !!

 

So is this a problem?

Have i mesed up? How to sort it?

 

Regards

 

Guy

[Tom Fremont]

I then lubricated the sleeve and pressed that in, end result one side of the bush fits fine and the other sticks out an extra couple of mm

Thinking back i have probably the same situation on the lower wishbone bushes !!

 

So is this a problem?

 

This sounds right for the inner lower wishbone bushes - the steel sleeve is not intended to rotate and is held by the clevis when the bolt is torqued up. Aftermarket bushings ( all but originals, that is ) therefore see relative movement against the sleeve, where the original rubber type simply twisted around the sleeve it was bonded to. Hence I don't know that it matters whether these are tightened loaded or not.

 

As I understand it the outer lower wishbone bushes stack up on steel sleeves acting as distance pieces, and the bushes turn about these too.

 

When I did a re-bush I used Silicone Brake Grease on everything. This dries to a consistency mid-way between grease and silicone. Time will tell if it will forestall the dreaded Poly bush sqeak

[stuart]

Guy thats correct as Tom says the steel sleeve is held tight and the bush moves around it. I buy my bushes fromTR Shop and they come with a sachet of a red grease that is recommended for them. I dont know what type it is as there is no name on it but it seems to do the job ok .

Stuart

[Jersey Royal]

Cheers Tom and Stuart.

 

Am on the last throws of it, struts back in, bearing races in to hubs.

 

So just got to fix discs to hub refit hub, fit calipers, fit wheels put on the deck and torque up wishbones. And final check.

 

The Red Grease could well be Amsoil Multi Purpose Synthetic Grease, which has been recommended to me by Revington to use when packing bearings and the hub.

 

 

Things are looking better and the sun has come out to play.

What a good day.

 

Regards

 

Guy

Edited September 18, 2007 by Jersey Royal

[JohnC]

A couple of things I remember from when I rebuilt the front suspension on my 6:

1. The lower outer bushes assembly (through the trunnion) didn't fit straight out of the box. I think I had to thin down the top hat brims by the tiniest amount (we're talking thousandths of an inch here) to stop the whole assembly seizing when tightened up.

2. I was recommended to use electricians silicone grease if I ran out of the sachet. I did, and there have been no squeaks so far from the poly bushes...

As they say, YMMV.

Cheers,

John

[Jersey Royal]

Thanks for your comment John C.

 

I have had a problem achieving the correct end float on one wheel, i think the problem was that the new oil seal , in that the hub was not locating over it entirely, so i have put the old one back to see if it makes any difference.

 

I have torqued up hub to 10 lb as described in haynes and turned back two flats.

 

Now i have a dial guge with magnetic stand, i attached the magnetic to vertical link/balljoint area, set dial to zero on the face of hub. If i tug on the hub i get little movement, if i rock the disc i get about 0.004.

 

What is the correct way to measure end float with a dial gauge?

 

Regards

 

Guy

[Tom Fremont]

Guy,

 

Your " rock " is due to having loosened the castellated nut two flats. When I last did this exercise I loosened just to the next available hole for the split pin ( say 10 degrees ) and have put ~1000 miles on since without incident. The object is to take up as much slack as possible without preloading the bearings, and is compromised by the available positions being 60 degrees apart. Hence some amount of " rock " is normal. I seem to recall the torque value at 5 lb-ft rather than 10 per the Bentley manual; this being more conservative you may want to back of from this setting just to the next position and see how you like it.

[67_gt6]

The best tip (courtesy of Richard Crawley) I have read for obtaining the correct end float is to tighten the castellated nut using a socket on an extension bar ie no ratchet, then back off to the first available hole. If you use a ratchet you run the risk of doing it too tight.

 

With the wheel back on you should have a slightly detectable wobble on the wheel when gripped at top and bottom.

[Jersey Royal]

Hi Chaps ,

 

Well job done all back together.

 

Taken car for a spin down the road, all seems fine, and no squeaks or groans.

I literally only took it for a spin up the road ,couple of miles, at excessive speed for Jersey. I can report the wheels are still on.

 

Hopefully give it a proper shack down sunday.

 

Thanks again to everyone who have responded to this thread, and have helped me complete the job.

 

Now whats next

 

Regards

 

Guy