Introduction

[Gordon]

Good Morning,

 

I'd like to introduce myself to the forum. I'm Gordon from Maryland, USA. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and lucky enough to have a wife who will indulgle my hobby/affliction with TR's. I've owned a 1500 Spit, Jensen-Healy Roadster and a TR6 which I still own. I must admit, I've lurked here a bit, trying to learn about the TR3.

 

About 3 weeks ago I purchased a 1959 TR3A. TS56XXXL. Well, let's say I bought a trailer full of bits that are titled as a 1960! I'm in the process of sorting all the bits and pieces and it appears the car is complete except for the top half of the engine, but in rough shape. Has not been driven since 1968. It resided in a barn since then but not a perfectly dry barn. It will require drivers floor, drivers "A" post, driver inner and outer rockers, boot floor, battery box and maybe a scuttle. The wings are in very rough shape and I'm not sure about them till I get them to the dipper to get a close look.

 

The frame has a light surface rust but no observable perforations. It has been curbed on the right side and the lower fulcrum pins are slightly bent and the outer brackets pulled from the frame.

 

Now, for a question or two if I may.

 

What is the general consensus for either doing the frame or tub first?

 

The few books I've read recommend the tub first then frame but I'm not opposed to frame first. It seems to me that a square frame should be a required starting point. If the frame first, would the Revington rally frame kit be advisable?

 

Has anyone considered removing the lower fulcrum pin and installing TR4A-TR6 lower mounts and gussets? Since there is no original camber adjustment provided the 4-6 mounts with the vertical link would allow for some camber. Or am I out to lunch on this idea?

 

Thanks for your inputs, Gordon

[stuart]

Good Morning,

 

I'd like to introduce myself to the forum. I'm Gordon from Maryland, USA. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and lucky enough to have a wife who will indulgle my hobby/affliction with TR's. I've owned a 1500 Spit, Jensen-Healy Roadster and a TR6 which I still own. I must admit, I've lurked here a bit, trying to learn about the TR3.

 

About 3 weeks ago I purchased a 1959 TR3A. TS56XXXL. Well, let's say I bought a trailer full of bits that are titled as a 1960! I'm in the process of sorting all the bits and pieces and it appears the car is complete except for the top half of the engine, but in rough shape. Has not been driven since 1968. It resided in a barn since then but not a perfectly dry barn. It will require drivers floor, drivers "A" post, driver inner and outer rockers, boot floor, battery box and maybe a scuttle. The wings are in very rough shape and I'm not sure about them till I get them to the dipper to get a close look.

 

The frame has a light surface rust but no observable perforations. It has been curbed on the right side and the lower fulcrum pins are slightly bent and the outer brackets pulled from the frame.

 

Now, for a question or two if I may.

 

What is the general consensus for either doing the frame or tub first?

 

The few books I've read recommend the tub first then frame but I'm not opposed to frame first. It seems to me that a square frame should be a required starting point. If the frame first, would the Revington rally frame kit be advisable?

 

Has anyone considered removing the lower fulcrum pin and installing TR4A-TR6 lower mounts and gussets? Since there is no original camber adjustment provided the 4-6 mounts with the vertical link would allow for some camber. Or am I out to lunch on this idea?

 

Thanks for your inputs, Gordon

Hi Gordon and welcome to the forum.

The best way to ensure that the car drives right and steers correctly and also looks correct is to get the frame straight first of all. If you can get a workshop manual that has all the dimensions to ensure that the frame is straight and then you use the frame as a jig to build the shell on. The Revington kit is a bit over the top unless you are going to rally the car but it is worth reinforcing the front inner lower wishbone brackets as you can tell from the way yours have pulled off!!

I wouldnt bother trying to fit 4a/6 Lower mounts as it would be a major undertaking and would be very difficult to set up properly. If you want camber adjustment then Revingtons do an adjustable top inner wishbone mounting kit.

Best of luck with your restoration, post some pictures as you go on.

Stuart

[Richardtr3a]

There is no question. Spend money on the chassis and you start well.If you do the body first the doors will never line up and nothing will fit well and you will waste a lot of money.

 

I started with a new Standard Triumph chassis and had it zinc sprayed and now 38 years later it is still as good as new. Try to alter as little as possible.

 

Good luck Richard

[vivdownunder]

Hi Gordon,

 

Welcome to the fun world of TR restoration.

 

I have carried out full body off full rebuilds on 3 TR's, and used two different highly skilled panelbeaters who could make any panel in either steel or aluminium. Both insisted I complete the frame first, and fit it up with the suspension and wheels give them a rolling frame. Of course it is much easier to install the brake lines, handbrake cables and fuel pipe while the body is off. They then rebuilt the body on the frame, but lifted it off for painting.

 

Beware when replacing the inner rockers and try and find someone if possible who has actually done this work before. The inner rockers have the body mounting points to the side outriggers on the frame, and therefore have to be installed precisely. Also, a jig has to be fabricated to hold the front and back sections of the body while the inner rockers are replaced. It is best to build this jig with the doors hinged in place so that the gaps are right after the new inner rockers are welded in. Once the jig is tack welded or bolted inside the body, then the doors can come off again.

 

I suggest you replace both inner rockers seeing they are 48 years old, as one might look OK, but they rust from the inside. These are integral to body strength.

 

Careful attachment of the A posts to the new inner rockers is important, and you need all new metal here, as any weakness results in bad scuttle shake.

 

Best of good fortune with the rebuild, and yell out for advice at any time so those who have gone before can pass on tips to save time, money and frustration.

 

With best regards,

 

Viv.

[Don Elliott]

I did mine as per the above advice. This was from 1987 to 1990. I've driven more than 97,000 miles since then. You can see the photos on the Montreal TR web site : -

 

http://www.rucompatible.com/triumphmtl/member_cars.htm#TR3

[Gordon]

I thought I'd come to the right place. The type of info and experience you guys have given me is what I needed. Some of the other sites I visit have TR owners that are maintainers and not restoring. Don't get me wrong, I look forward to move into the maintainer role!

 

I've been mulling over the frame first approach and believe I will begin there.

 

I'm not sure where I'll store the tub while the frame is being sorted. I've been thinking the tub minus wings can't weigh that much. I have 10 foot ceilings in my garage and may suspend the tub from the rafters. Have to think about this for abit.

 

Thanks to all for the info, Gordon

[Rhodri]

Hi Gordon-My TR4 tub- this leaves room to put the chassis etc underneath it. Would have liked to put it higher, but not strong enough on my own!