Richard Crawley Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 did you mean this richard or the other richardrichard I think he meant me but you’ve done an equally good job with the explanation! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 (edited) Thanks Richard and Richard, For your explanation, have read about lapping in the pin but never found an explanation. Heres another technical term that i am unsure of , what is a drift, used in regard to separating the carrier from the bearing ? Is it a piece of metal the same diameter as the carrier ? Also to remove the two pins in the ends of the fork, is it just a matter of drilling out old ones and pushing in the new ones? Cheers Guy Edited July 31, 2007 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 a drift is something BETWEEN the hammer and the object you are hitting. a chisel punch socket extension bar screw driver etc. a posh drift will be made from copper or brass,so as not to damage the thing you are hitting. put the bearing carrier in a open vice.bearing resting on the jaws, carrier hanging down. then find something suitable to knock the carrier down and of the bearing.it wont be too hard to knock off. richard the 2nd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Also to remove the two pins in the ends of the fork, is it just a matter of drilling out old ones and pushing in the new ones? Cheers Guy knock the pins out they are hardened wont drill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Also to remove the two pins in the ends of the fork, is it just a matter of drilling out old ones and pushing in the new ones?Cheers Guy knock the pins out they are hardened wont drill Thanks again Richard, Oh thanks for the headlining photos.. Cheers Guy Well now i think i know what i am doing Ordering parts tomorrow, they might arrive by weekend and thats my weekend tied up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 (edited) Guy You can buy uprated taper pins made from harder steel [Moss I think] they aren't very dear, to lap one in you need to use a power tool or you will be lapping by hand for hours, the pin is properly lapped in when both the pin and it's hole have a nice even matt finish. I used the roll pin as a back-up, I also don't think a bolt is the best way to back up the taper pin. The two pins in the yoke drift out, the new ones are pressed in and lightly riveted. Ron PS a drift is something guaranteed to damage whatever delicate piece of kit you are trying to protect by using a drift Ron Edited July 31, 2007 by ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 (edited) Guy You can buy uprated taper pins made from harder steel [Moss I think] they aren't very dear, to lap one in you need to use a power tool or you will be lapping by hand for hours, the pin is properly lapped in when both the pin and it's hole have a nice even matt finish. I used the roll pin as a back-up, I also don't think a bolt is the best way to back up the taper pin. The two pins in the yoke drift out, the new ones are pressed in and lightly riveted. Ron PS a drift is something guaranteed to damage whatever delicate piece of kit you are trying to protect by using a drift Ron Cheers Ron Great these technical terms, lap.. drift... How about lightly riveted... this must mean the outer end smacked with a hammer till its burred over..... ? Regards Guy Edited July 31, 2007 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Great these technical terms, lap.. drift... How about lightly riveted... Exactly how I felt Sunday morning Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Hi Apparently there is a vent hole on the top of the gearbox.. Anybody seen one......... Regards Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Hi Apparently there is a vent hole on the top of the gearbox.. Anybody seen one......... Regards Guy top front left hole about 1/16 th. or stand the box up on the bell housing and it will [should] run out. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 (edited) top front left hole about 1/16 th. or stand the box up on the bell housing and it will [should] run out.richard Thanks Richard the 2nd I cant at present tip up on bellhousing as have front oil seal out awaiting new one, will tip it up once in. But still cant see any hole.... just wanted to make sure it was clear Cheers Guy Edited August 1, 2007 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Dont forget to wash all traces of lapping paste away with petrol - remember it helps to grind surfaces and you dont want any left to continue working! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 a pictures worth ?. ive shoved a bit of red wire in the vent holes.i have a non od box but i cant see a hole in that one? richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted August 2, 2007 Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 I haven't had the tunnel cover out yet to confirm but from under my car it appears I have no filler inlet tapped in the box. I seem to remember from the number that it is a TR6 box. Is this unusual? Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 (edited) a pictures worth ?. ive shoved a bit of red wire in the vent holes.i have a non od box but i cant see a hole in that one? richard Thats Interesting , My Gearbox (CD30504) which has a type overdrive does not have a vent hole. So should it? Can anyone shed any light on this one ? Andy suprised yours does not have a filler, should be left hand side and quite small. You would have a job filling it from the drain plug Regards Guy Edited August 2, 2007 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted August 2, 2007 Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 Thats Interesting , My Gearbox (CD30504) which has a type overdrive does not have a vent hole. So should it? Can anyone shed any light on this one ? it might vent through the odrive vent richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2007 (edited) Hi Chaps, All my bits arrived today with the exception of the alignment tool, this was coming from another supplier so lets hope i get it tomorrow. Anyway Yet another query. I am fitting new oil seal to front of gearbox together with new gasket to that and layshaft cover. The gaskets are a thin brown paper. Do i just clean both metal surfaces and apply Universal Blue Hylomar to both sides of gasket ? And , i have some Metaflux Lubricating metal, Should i apply a coating to the front bearing plate, the piece the carrier slides on. Also i film onto the input shaft cog piece. Can you tell i am not that technical. Regards Guy Edited August 3, 2007 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 3, 2007 Report Share Posted August 3, 2007 Hi Chaps, All my bits arrived today with the exception of the alignment tool, this was coming from another supplier so lets hope i get it tomorrow. Anyway Yet another query. I am fitting new oil seal to front of gearbox together with new gasket to that and layshaft cover. The gaskets are a thin brown paper. Do i just clean both metal surfaces and apply Universal Blue Hylomar to both sides of gasket ? Regards Guy Guy I always use "wellseal" for those types of gasket although I appreciate that you may not be able to find it very easily over there so a thin film of hylomar should be ok. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2007 Hi Gents I have picked up a selection of roll pins, you know the type that are in a mixed bag. Anyway would a five mm pin be suitable(measured on end on tape) and i guess a four mmhole would be require Regards Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted August 3, 2007 Report Share Posted August 3, 2007 Hi Gents I have picked up a selection of roll pins, you know the type that are in a mixed bag. Anyway would a five mm pin be suitable(measured on end on tape) and i guess a four mmhole would be require Regards Guy look at this if it works Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2007 look at this if it works Cheers Richard That is a great help Regards Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 (edited) Hi Chaps, Update. Centralizing tool arrived this morning. So spent most of today fitting new oil seals and gaskets, new bushes new lapped in pin in new fork with roll pin.New bronze carrier and koyo bearing. New Clutch Plate and cover fitted. Managed with a bit of blood and cursing to get the box back into place. So tomorrow have to finish bolting up box, prop and tunnel, re connect slave and pushrod .Will take her for a spin prior to refitting interior. Fingers crossed i have done it correctly. Best Regards Guy Edited August 4, 2007 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 4, 2007 Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 Hi Guy, I know this will read like horses and stable doors but I've only just started reading this thread. The problem with the 'clutch fork and the taper pin' that nessecitates various ingenious fixes is that the standard (no pun intended) fork had a threaded hole where the taper pin went in and on the other side of the cross shaft had the same diameter of hole. Thus putting the taper pin into single shear. The TR Shop have forks where this larger hole is now a continuation of the taper from the cross shaft. This puts the pin into double shear and bobs your uncle. They also have stronger taper pins. A book could be writen about these forks and the taper pins and all the remedies used. Best of luck with your fix Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 Hi Guy, I know this will read like horses and stable doors but I've only just started reading this thread. The problem with the 'clutch fork and the taper pin' that nessecitates various ingenious fixes is that the standard (no pun intended) fork had a threaded hole where the taper pin went in and on the other side of the cross shaft had the same diameter of hole. Thus putting the taper pin into single shear. The TR Shop have forks where this larger hole is now a continuation of the taper from the cross shaft. This puts the pin into double shear and bobs your uncle. They also have stronger taper pins. A book could be writen about these forks and the taper pins and all the remedies used. Best of luck with your fix Roger Thanks for you post Roger, my new taper pin was slightly longer than original and the pin does extend past the cross shaft into the other side of the fork. Any way lapped in and roll pin in place, absolutely no movement. Havent had a great deal of spare time today to complete installation. Was bloo** hot over here today, so kids were mucking around in the water having a great time , hence little work done. Hope you all had similar weather Regards Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paul gardner Posted August 5, 2007 Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 Guy, As a matter of interest, which clutch manufacturer did you eventually select. My interest aroused by the recent debate about replacement clutch quality. Yours Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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