monty Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 Hi All again, What are peoples thoughts on an oil cooler on a TR4A (modified with stage 2/3 head, freeflow manifold/exhaust, road cam, 87mm pistons). Have most owners fitted them or left well alone? What is the best setup if needed & what is the general fitting location? What would I need? Oil pressure seems to be in line with everybodys thoughts & drops a little when hot. Regards, Monty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted June 30, 2007 Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 Hi Monty, Depends on the climate I suppose. I live in the North-west UK & My TR4 is the same spec as yours and is fine without; but then I don't rally it but it does get driven hard when properly warmed up. Yes oil pressure drops slightly when warm, usually after a long motorway run; but it picks up immediately with revs back to normal operating levels. I had an oil cooler fitted; it did make a difference but turned out to be just more places for oil to leak from, so I removed it in the end to no detrimental running effects. So, I would say: Rally/ Race/ Trackdays a definite "yes". Fast road/ normal use; save your money and buy decent oil instead. When it was fitted, I mounted it off the front of the lower rad shield on 2 angled brackets. I've seen them on the RHS of the water rad before, but I think this only adds to under bonnet temp and robs the carbs of a cool air flow. Cheers Adey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
North London Mike Posted June 30, 2007 Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 Hi All again,What are peoples thoughts on an oil cooler on a TR4A (modified with stage 2/3 head, freeflow manifold/exhaust, road cam, 87mm pistons). Have most owners fitted them or left well alone? What is the best setup if needed & what is the general fitting location? What would I need? Oil pressure seems to be in line with everybodys thoughts & drops a little when hot. Regards, Monty. Hi Monty Have to agree with Adey. Mine is a fast road, does the odd track day (three this year) just blated down to DiJon with hot motorway blast, no problem, Oil sits at 70psi. I was told that only race and rally cars needed it and then only if really hot and working at 5000rpm Fast road is fine without. Better to keep the under bonnet area cool for the carbs...............change the oil every 3000miles and buy the good stuff! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted June 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 Hi Monty Have to agree with Adey. Mine is a fast road, does the odd track day (three this year) just blated down to DiJon with hot motorway blast, no problem, Oil sits at 70psi. I was told that only race and rally cars needed it and then only if really hot and working at 5000rpm Fast road is fine without. Better to keep the under bonnet area cool for the carbs...............change the oil every 3000miles and buy the good stuff! Thanks Ade & Mike, Your comments pretty are well spot-on with my thoughts! I am using Castrol Classic 20/50 which will be changed every year/3000 miles so that should be ok. My oil pressure readings are close to yours so feel happy about that! Regards, Monty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
had17462 Posted June 30, 2007 Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 Hi all, what is the best oil for a rebuilt standard engine,thanks in advance,nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted June 30, 2007 Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 Hi all, anyone fitting an oil coiler - make sure it has the thermostatic valve fittings. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted June 30, 2007 Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 Hi I don't think there are any poor oils out there if you're sensible about your choice ie: Penrites, millers, castrol, valvoline etc. 20/50 mineral (or 20/60 "sports" from penrites) are all good, many advocate semi or even fully synths but I think on a fresh re-build you need to allow for some wear initially to get the engine to bed-in properly. Halfords classic 20/50 has seal swelling agents that help reduce leaks too. I ran-up my rebuild engine with some cheaper 20/50 until warm, then dropped the oil and filter immediately to try and get rid of the bulk of the rubbish after the rebuild then re-filled with somne decent stuff. I also use a couple of oil filter magnets on the bowl which help pull out metally bits too - belt and braces!!! Cheers Adey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 Hi Agreed on the oil cooler ...... in fact you need to keep a weather eye out for oil running too cold with a cooler on a road car; Even on a rally car if youre doing short tests and then long gentle regularities. I wouldnt use one unless youre going to be running some real temperature. Regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted July 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 Hi Agreed on the oil cooler ...... in fact you need to keep a weather eye out for oil running too cold with a cooler on a road car; Even on a rally car if youre doing short tests and then long gentle regularities. I wouldnt use one unless youre going to be running some real temperature. Regards Tony Thanks for that Tony. Regards, Monty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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