pfenlon Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 Having heard rumours regarding overheating problems on the TR3A, I note that Moss sell a ducting kit for less than £10, I was planning to make my own ducting using 2 sheets of alloy to guide the air to the radiator, before I do does the Moss ducting work, has anyone previous experience? regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 Hi Peter Yes it does work and is essential to the cool running of 3As. That said, over time it will distort and disintegrate if you use your 3A regularly in the rain, but should last a number of years and worth buying, especially at under tenner! Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 Peter, Imho I think that a duct is a 'must' on a TR3A. It channels the air stream towards the radiator, making full use of the radiators' cooling effect. Without the duct, a lot of air does not reach the radiator, it just passes by. So, the cooling effect of the air flowing through the radiator core is mineralised. I bought a Moss' duct for my 3A and I'm not impressed by the quality of the product. It's some sort of cardboard. Driving in the wet will have serious effect on the cardboard. Before fitting the cardboard duct, I measured it carefully and made a drawing 1:1 scale. I also painted the cardboard duct with black paint and sealed the paint with a 1 component epoxy finish, as used in the yacht industry. Just to add some extra protection against water. At the moment, I'm restoring my TR and I will make myself a alu duct, using the drawing. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted June 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 Hi Peter Yes it does work and is essential to the cool running of 3As. That said, over time it will distort and disintegrate if you use your 3A regularly in the rain, but should last a number of years and worth buying, especially at under tenner! Cheers Andrew Thanks for your reply Andrew, regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted June 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 Peter, Imho I think that a duct is a 'must' on a TR3A. It channels the air stream towards the radiator, making full use of the radiators' cooling effect. Without the duct, a lot of air does not reach the radiator, it just passes by. So, the cooling effect of the air flowing through the radiator core is mineralised. I bought a Moss' duct for my 3A and I'm not impressed by the quality of the product. It's some sort of cardboard. Driving in the wet will have serious effect on the cardboard. Before fitting the cardboard duct, I measured it carefully and made a drawing 1:1 scale. I also painted the cardboard duct with black paint and sealed the paint with a 1 component epoxy finish, as used in the yacht industry. Just to add some extra protection against water. At the moment, I'm restoring my TR and I will make myself a alu duct, using the drawing. Menno Menno thanks for your reply I will buy the duct and make a copy in alloy as you seem to have done. regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 If you are into originality, it should be painted body colour. By the way, my TR3A was built without one of these air deflectors. When S-T introduced the TR3A, it was in the autumn of 1957 and it wasn't until the next spring of 1958 that overheating problems were reported back to S-T. My TR3A (TS 27489 LO) is an early car built on Feb 14th, 1958. So they came up with this cheap cardboard device to fix the problem. Dealers installed them free of charge if a TR3A owner complained. The earlier TR2s and TR3s didn't have this problem because of the sheetmetal ducting that is part of the design of the smallmouth openings on the front valance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 It is useful to have the ducting and I agree with all earlier posts. I managed to fix a vertical lightweight right angle channel to either side of my new radiator with some pop rivets. I made up some templates and cut the aluminium sheet to size with a strip across the front of the header tank, which holds the sides firm. The ducting is riveted to the angle channel and works very well. I also fixed the electric Kenlowe fan to the spider like mountings that came with it and they are also riveted to the angle. So no more fixings through the core. The original fan and wide belt are inside the radiator as normal. The best improvement in cooling so far was the new up rated radiator. I felt that the radiator was still quite new until my friend pointed out that it was low mileage but my rebuild was completed in 1986 and 20 years is a very old radiator. Good luck Richard tr3a Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted June 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 If you are into originality, it should be painted body colour. By the way, my TR3A was built without one of these air deflectors. When S-T introduced the TR3A, it was in the autumn of 1957 and it wasn't until the next spring of 1958 that overheating problems were reported back to S-T. My TR3A (TS 27489 LO) is an early car built on Feb 14th, 1958. So they came up with this cheap cardboard device to fix the problem. Dealers installed them free of charge if a TR3A owner complained. The earlier TR2s and TR3s didn't have this problem because of the sheetmetal ducting that is part of the design of the smallmouth openings on the front valance. Hello Don thank you for your help on the forum, Don have you recieved the e mails I have tried to send to you regarding the history of my TR3A, my E mail address is peter.fenlon@manitowoc.com regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cleo's Dad Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 (edited) While you are thinking about ducting, what about the part of the radiator below the bumper line that is shielded by the lower front valance. Following a tip from Australia, I made up a small duct from galvanised metal sheet to duct air into the lower part of the radiator. It just needs to project down to lower chassis level. See picture (I hope). All pretty simple and held on with a couple of pipe clamps. Certainly helps recovery from potential overheating situations and must push more air through the rad when moving. te name='pfenlon' date='Jun 25 2007, 05:34 PM' post='69179'] Having heard rumours regarding overheating problems on the TR3A, I note that Moss sell a ducting kit for less than £10, I was planning to make my own ducting using 2 sheets of alloy to guide the air to the radiator, before I do does the Moss ducting work, has anyone previous experience? regards Peter Edited June 27, 2007 by Cleo's Dad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted June 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 While you are thinking about ducting, what about the part of the radiator below the bumper line that is shielded by the lower front valance.Following a tip from Australia, I made up a small duct from galvanised metal sheet to duct air into the lower part of the radiator. It just needs to project down to lower chassis level. See picture (I hope). All pretty simple and held on with a couple of pipe clamps. Certainly helps recovery from potential overheating situations and must push more air through the rad when moving. te name='pfenlon' date='Jun 25 2007, 05:34 PM' post='69179'] Having heard rumours regarding overheating problems on the TR3A, I note that Moss sell a ducting kit for less than £10, I was planning to make my own ducting using 2 sheets of alloy to guide the air to the radiator, before I do does the Moss ducting work, has anyone previous experience? regards Peter Thanks Cleo's Dad that is a neat little mod which I will copy regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 At the Triumph Show at Stoneleigh in February this year, I saw on a stand some ducting in a decent grade of plastic (i.e. wouldn't disintegrate in wet conditions), in metal and - would you believe - in chromed metal! I don't have a catalogue for the event (I'm not sure one is produced), but you could try Google for the organisers or for the ducting itself. Have you tried any other suppliers who might have ducting in a different material e.g. Revington, Racetorations? Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 On the TR4/4A area, I have just seen this address richard.heap7@btinternet.com as someone supplying steel inlet ducting for 4/4A - could well be the fellow whose stand I saw I saw at Stoneleigh, so may cover 3As as well. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted June 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2007 On the TR4/4A area, I have just seen this addressrichard.heap7@btinternet.com as someone supplying steel inlet ducting for 4/4A - could well be the fellow whose stand I saw I saw at Stoneleigh, so may cover 3As as well. Ian Hello Ian, I bought the cardboard duct from Moss, and will make an alloy replica thanks for the input plastic would be better. regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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