Jersey Royal Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Hi All, The Idle adjuster valve is loose. It has come away from the manifold. Having looked at it it is just a straight socket push fit. What is the best way to refit and with what? Best Regards Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Victor1155 Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Guy I have a set of second hand ones that I am modifying and the brass idle valve is surplus to requirements so I have had to remove it. To all intents and purposes it appeared to have worked loose at some time and been reattached with Epoxy Resin (Araldite?). Believe me it was an absolute B****r to get out and, prior to removal, it did not have an air leak. I suppose that the Araldite? could do the job again, best of luck. Steven H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kyd99 Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Hi All, The Idle adjuster valve is loose. It has come away from the manifold. Having looked at it it is just a straight socket push fit. What is the best way to refit and with what? Best Regards Guy HI Guy I fitted an extra idle valve at the bulkhead end to give more air to 5&6. I used Araldite, it's been fine. Regards John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Thanks John and Steven, Didnt think of that, Good one, will give it a go Regards Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Araldite is one of the best get you out of trouble items to have in your toolbox. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Araldite is one of the best get you out of trouble items to have in your toolbox.Stuart. Stuart Cheers And i tell you what... Its going in my toolbox right now.. Regards Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 ...but be warned that Araldite Rapid has a pretty low metling point, so I would avoid using it anywhere in the engine compartment. Stick with standard Araldite. Many years ago, I maintained electric foils etc for my school fending club. We used Araldite rapid to secure the wires into the blade, because it was very easily removed when the wires broke - hold the blade high over a bunsen burner set to low heat (don't want to get the blade too hot or you mess with the temper...), and the wires came out with almost no effort. YMMV, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted June 15, 2007 Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 Hi Guy, Loctite Stud/Bearing seal is good for this sort of thing, had to stick a cooling pipe into the BN head I fitted to my 405TD last year. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 (edited) ...but be warned that Araldite Rapid has a pretty low metling point, so I would avoid using it anywhere in the engine compartment. Stick with standard Araldite. Many years ago, I maintained electric foils etc for my school fending club. We used Araldite rapid to secure the wires into the blade, because it was very easily removed when the wires broke - hold the blade high over a bunsen burner set to low heat (don't want to get the blade too hot or you mess with the temper...), and the wires came out with almost no effort.YMMV, John Thanks John, i had already used araldite rapid prior to your posting...... have taken car for a spin and yes you are correct it melted Could not locate any araldite standard so have used Loctite Epoxy, heat resistant to +150 deg c. See how that works. Regards Guy Update... Loctite Epoxy has worked , no problems.. Edited June 20, 2007 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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