Timbo down under Posted May 11, 2007 Report Share Posted May 11, 2007 I'm told the standard rack conversion kit uses a mini steering rack with shortened track rods Can anyone tell me how much I should shorten the rods by for a RHD conversion please? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 11, 2007 Report Share Posted May 11, 2007 I'm told the standard rack conversion kit uses a mini steering rack with shortened track rodsCan anyone tell me how much I should shorten the rods by for a RHD conversion please? Timbo its actually a left hand drive mini rack used upside down and cut down to 36 1/4" overall. But some of the racks have waisted inner rod ends so you cant thread them in far enough. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted May 11, 2007 Report Share Posted May 11, 2007 The standard steering box can be made working very well with some modifications, I have an Internet address somewhere and will look for it if you are interested. One of the problems with a home made conversion is the search for the best location of the rack. A position that is out for half an inch will cause severe bump steer. With the mini rack conversion, bump steering can't be eliminated completely, because the rack is too wide. A TR7 rack has the right width, but the conversion is a little more complicated : the lower universal joint is very close to the suspension tower of the chassis. With the TR7 rack and pinion , bump steer can be eliminated in the complete suspension travel (full bump to full droop of the wheels). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Timbo down under Posted May 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2007 Moss (and most of the other TR parts stockists) supply a standard conversion kit that contains a shortened mini rack (LHD for a RHD car) and special bracket to mount it on that fits rather well into the existing chassis fittings. The job is relatively straight forward though a deep breath is needed when you first start cutting holes in the bulkhead for the pedal box etc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Timbo down under Posted May 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 Sorry Marv, forgot to mention, There is another chap here in Australia who wants to convert his LHD steering box to RHD so if you can find that link it would be much appreciated Cheers - Timbo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 Sorry Marv, forgot to mention, There is another chap here in Australia who wants to convert his LHD steering box to RHD so if you can find that link it would be much appreciatedCheers - Timbo www.tr-freunde.de/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=9 This is the internet address, don't know how to make it hot. The article is written in the german language, I you wish, I'll translate the important points in english, not today, but in a couple of days perhaps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 (edited) Try this: Conversion Site Edited May 25, 2007 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 This is a translation (?) of the text in the webpage.  This is courtesy of Babelfish Altavista, so don't blame me for some of the oddities!  David    Change of the steering element at the TR 3 by Jo wanting Ems  Af inquiry of Rolf Wyss we may publish the following letter, which describes conversion instructions for the steering of the TR 3, here:  Concern: Steering element TR3  Hello Mr. Wyss, beautiful one thanks for your letter,  The topic original steering element TR2/3 in relation to change is hardly a fair discussion, because one compares a brand-new part with one, which is years old up to 50.  The original steering housing turns more easily than each steering rack; there is only a construction dependent play, which one can eliminate as far as possible, if one uses the correct parts and precisely works.  If components are far worn such as snail, tap and camp/counterplate broken or (too), the tap in the snail blocks itself and/or develops a kolossales guidance play and one needs much strength. The "easier" tricks of the steering rack is only because of the fact that it hinge-ends components less in the comparison with original gives. TR2/3 has nevertheless 4x ball + 2 rubber steering element links in the bar to the Umlenkhebel(Hilfslenkung) + hinge-ends auxiliary steering element. The newer system has only 2 ball connections in the steering element and 2 tie rod final heads. Easier steering has - it only partial thereby is to be done.  My change consists of:  A Auxiliary steering element with bronze can and lubrication fitting provide, so that it functions low-friction and with minimum play. The new parts available in the trade can one into the ton schmeissen immediately, because to large play is inserted ex factory.  b 2 bronze cans with high-grade steel pins, which replace the vulcanized steering element links difficult to operate.  C Structure/attitude original Lenkgehause according to factory specification and very carefully components co-ordinate  D Examine guidance ball and make more usual and/or replace  The whole change does not bring anything, if it is not specialdeliberately inserted!! It is very important that the upper and lower triangle steering wheels loosely after hinges above/down and left/right, if assembled and attraction with correct torque.  The connection above/down over ball and Messingschwenklager may not stand under pre-loading (due to Verbiequngen/alten accident damages at framework/wishbone/knuckles)  If screwed together without feather/spring the suspension view must let move easily above/down and left/right. Also pay attention to new upper balls extremely difficult to operate and new Messingschwenklager! Sample-fit, because it is very often necessary to screw these components with a mixture from oil and ventilschleifpaste so for a long time up and down until the articulated bearings completely up to the notice reasonably hinges.  New articulated bearings down solder, because otherwise the oil runs out down. Anyway only lubrication with heavy oil or engine intake paste of Torco or Miller. This things stick and lubricate like the sow and are so thick that it does not drip also in the steering element from the Simmering.  Many people do not overhaul these things well, or only then if one inserts a new steering element and state then, the new steering element is the large miracle.  Further the steering element and auxiliary steering element from left must to the right well aligning, because otherwise hinge-end themselves components block. With the bronze/high-grade steel parts is still many more important than with the rubber parts, because nothing gives way. To hardly explain custom I them as an engineer! With the installation the car jack up, under which spring discs and driving conditions simulate and which steering wheel last fully from left to the right move, while an aid bolts the attaching pins on from steering element and auxiliary steering element to the framework.  Also the Lenksaule without tension must be screwed on to frameworks and Carosserie/unter instrument panel. All mounting plates thus before make well usual and column in such a way bolt that nothing twists itself. The steering bar may not block itself in the external pipe.  If they examine with the structure Komponent for Komponent and always examine each mark, if they bolt a part with another, then it can go not inclined, because as the steering wheel clearly more with difficulty to turn, knows it leaves itself that the cause in than last inserted connection lies, and so they can repair the cause.  The result is a steering element, which functions easily and precisely. It is thus no Zauberei; only reasonably and carefully work  Prices:  Change auxiliary steering element  120Euro  And anstimmen final game opposite steering arm at the steering element and the auxiliary steering element rub change tie bar on bronze can/on measure 185 euro  Control/overhaul delivered steering element, definite price hangs off of condition delivered steering element however mostly... 2x Rollager 22 euro  2x counterplate 58 euro  Bearing bush 3.25 euro  Simmering 1.35 euro  Sealing olive O, 85 euro  Nut/mother sealing olive 1.75 euro  Setting shim/seal 4 euro  Nylon/rubber mount can into divided steering element 9 euro  Felt strip continuous steering element 1.65 euro  if needs:  Steering worm 260 euro  Lenkzapfen 244 euro  Lenkfinger 3O euro  Work without steering worm replaces 200 euro; with +125 euro; all prices excl. 21 % VAT,  It can become thus expensive, if steering worm is broken, but compared with a conversion kit and all thing/work, which still come to it, is to be kept it more cheaply the own steering system.  In addition comes still with participation at FIVA/FIA meetings and with TueV acceptance of problems enstehen, if someone looks at itself the car, which has notion, because the change is not certified.  By the way it is worth to replace itself, if one revises the front suspension anyway, the upper wishbones and lower articulated bearings, which are designed to positive fall for O degrees wake and 0.5 to 1 degree, by 3 degrees lower joints and upper wishbones TR4 to 6. The TR4/6-Querlenher change I, thereby the fall to be adjusted can on 0,5 to 1.5 degrees negatively. This causes much better straight line out stability, much road-hugging property and autocentering effect of the steering wheel improves after the curve.  The 3-Grad-Gelenke costs the same like the 0-Grad, the upper ball of TR4/6 is cheaper the Haelfle than from TR2/3. Specially only the upper wishbones, sentence even used cost deliver for change: 160 euro (without delivery of parts of 280 euro)  Still better handling brings an additional Stabi, and a few improved shock absorber, ever after targeted application, possibly tauter feathers/springs.  In the back the handling can be very strongly improved, without making travelling comfort - to that extent of it with TR2/3 the speech to be can - worse at very small expenditure. Acetal or PU cans in the rear photograph eyes of the leaf spring and the retainers, front silent bush concisely sharpen, up to the leaf spring and at both sides the feather/spring sheet get jammed with steel rings, so that the leaf spring only up and down go and no lateral play more to have. Never reequip on telescope shock absorbers, again but own strengthen (if not leaky) or buy and these strengthen. RK shock absorbers are mostly newly painted scrap iron; if one gets good, one has luck.  By the way, also in front use in the suspension only the nylon or PU cans. Rubber gets broken with the installation already.  Much fun when screwing Mr. Wyss, if they have further questions, asks calling/faxes. For Emall I am too old fashionable. If they this detailed answer to publish want - over club booklet or InterNet - have it mine Seqen  Kind regards  Jo wanting Ems Talk baron Garage & Classic Race/Rallye service Kiezelweg 166 bus 2 B-3620 Veltwezelt Belgium Tel 0032 89-714213 Fax 0032 89-733892 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 This is a translation (?) of the text in the webpage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Much fun when screwing Mr. Wyss, Seems like the translation adds a fair bit to the original! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 Seems like the translation adds a fair bit to the original! Maybe the translation to the english language isn't perfect, but it's still quite an achievement of Babelfish Altavista and the translation software in general. The translation seems to be good enough to understand the steering system modifications Jo Willems is doing on the sidescreens TR. Jo Willems is a Dutchman , living in Belgium, who prepares mainly TR3's and TR4's for racing and rallying and owner of 'RED BARON GARAGES' and IMHO he is the best on the continent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 Makes even funnier reading if you imagine it spoken by the gendarme from Allo Allo!! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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