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mikespain835 last won the day on October 20 2018

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About mikespain835

  • Birthday 02/04/1953

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  • Location
    malaga spain
  • Cars Owned:
    restoring classics,chatting in pub or elsewhere

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  1. Hi ,it was actually 4 out of the six injectors but no sign of any rubber just gummed up with old fuel
  2. Hi again---problem solved. I removed the injectors and put them on a cleaning rig I have made (basically a plastic deposit to a bosch pump and filter through an adjustable letby valve to a return pipe tee'd into feed pipe with pressure gauge) anyway fitted the injectors one by one and 4 out of the 6 had leak by and more like jets of fuel rather than a nice cone. After flushing them through I managed to get them clean and a good conical spray.Refitted them and after bleeding the injectors it ran quite well.After changing the blue springs to silver or plain springs it roared !went for a test drive and great response all through the revs.Job Done! I first thought that the rough running was down to worn throttle spindles,after changing them and changing to ball and socket throttle rods it improved but nowhere near enough.The biggest improvement was cleaning the injectors and the icing on the cake was changing the springs. Thanks to everybody for your input and help ,it does help to discuss these problems as it makes one think of all the variables to cure a problem thanks again-Mike
  3. HI Peter, I'm afraid it is unknown,however the metering unit does look prestine as if it is a recon unit, when I removed the adaptor for No 6 outlet the o ring was supple and no signs of age ,and all the connections are sqeaky clean.All I know is that the engine was reconditioned last year and has been hardly driven since.
  4. Hi again right- The tube to the atmospheric pressure side of the control unit is clear Checked for vacuum leaks all good and no leak from control unit diaphragm. checked over fueling lever is fully returning and it has gap between cam and lever. checked metering unit timing-set as per brown book for cp engine,just see the opening at top of No 6 port. Tried adjusting the ignition timing not much change reset the throttle bodies at 1500 revs. Although a very slight improvement it is stil nowhere near right or driveable. what I have noticed is when cold it runs a bit better and as it warms up it gets worse and really smells of fuel from exhaust and plugs are sooted up. I feel that what Mike C says is relevant as there are blue springs fitted. I have been searching for some red springs but to no avail from the usual suppliers, will send an E-mail to malcolm at prestige injection,anyone got any ideas where I could get some,also any more ideas as to anything else that could cause the problem?
  5. Thanks everyone for the input,I will be looking at all these points when I can get back to it next week.I will keep you all informed of progress - again many thanks
  6. Thanks for the quick replies.I will check if the diaphragm holds vacuum and that the pump is timed correctly. The metering unit looks as though it has been overhauled recently as it is very clean and there is clean yellow anti tamper paint on the screws. I forgot to say that the engine was rebuilt etc in 2017.Also a bosch pump kit was fitted along with a rebuilt long PRV -non adjustable
  7. Hi All,I realise that I am asking about a TR5 in the TR6 forum but there seems a lot more info about the metering unit here. I'm trying to get a TR5 to accelerate from idle instead of bogging down.It seems to be over fueling at idle. It has cp throttle bodies with air bleed screw and push on fuel return pipe. Ignition timing set at 11 degrees btdc at 850 rpm Checked fuel pressure at metering unit gives 100psi I have 6 inch hg vacuum at the manifold and the 6 inlet ports are all within 1/2 a unit of flow (in this case kg/hr) showing 2 to 21/2 and have tested at part throttle -again all showing more or less equal flow. I changed the throttle spindles (which rectified the play and adjusted the butterflies to be best seating possible. This greatly improved the idle(which was all over the place) giving me a stable idle that can be adjusted down to 650 rpm but still very very rich I have checked the mixture control unit and it has got blue springs fitted ,should'nt they be silver or red.? thus leaning the mixture more? I have trolled through many posts but non seem to give any info about the effect the different springs have. any help or comments would be very much appreciated thanks Mike (malaga spain)
  8. Hi Bill Exhaust joint paste/sealant is not designed to seal between manifold and head the gasket should be sufficient if the face of the manifold is flat.If it is slightly bowed a machine shop could probably regrind the face flat.It does puzzle me a bit tha t you say it happens at higher revs,when i would have thought any blow should be able to be heard even at tick over or revving it a touch,-a stethascope is useful to detect the area of a blow,also a leak from the manifold causes popping from the exhaust especially on overrun-BE CAREFUL NOT TO BURN YOURSELF!It could be that you're getting revurberation through the exhaust at certain revs? just my tuppeny worth Mike
  9. Some more info, I have measured the distance from the bottom of the windsreen surround to the middle screw hole on both sides and there is a differance of 1.5 cm the left holes being higher,which will be the reason for the different gaps between the base of the screen and the stanchions also as it will be cock eyed this will force the stanchions apart somewhat -but screwing the screen in on one side that appears to be correct,and putting the other side in the correct position without the screws,the stanchions still seem not to follow the contour of the bulkhead very well. the only way I see to rectify the holes is to dismantle the frame and redrill the holes.Has anyone come across this difference of the spacing of the mounting holes between two sides before?still trying to work out how to upload the fotos-I'll get there!
  10. Hi again,I bought this as a rolling chassis the chassis was almost fitted up and the rest of the car in boxes,I have a very good panel beater that has replaced the floors bottoms of wings boot floor and various other sections that he has made up out of sheet steel making excellent repairs,now ready for sand blasting and then final repairs to small dents-he's one of what I call the old school-Anyway back to the screen-I have not had the screen out of the frame,and the tenon plates from what I can see from the parts book go between the frame and the stanchions,I will upload some ftos asap,thanks
  11. Hi everyone,I'm new here,been in spain for 27 years now and I'm restoring a 57 Tr3(not for 27 years,started in october),things are going quite well up to now,chassis and running gear done and painted,the bodywork repaired welded and first fit to chassis,came to put the windscreen on to see the fit ,and -problems-first of all the tenon plates seem to be missing but even without these,the stanchions fit and follow the contour of the bulkhead panel until the windsceen is introduced when it forces the stanchions apart and when screwed in,leaves the stanchions with a gap of nearly 1cm between the end of the curve of stanchion to the bulkhead paneland on the left hand side(sitting in the car)a gap of 5mm between the bottom of the windscreen surround and the stanchion,there appears to be no damage to the stanchions and no damage to the windsreen surround,almost as if the windscreen is too wide,anyone come across this problem before?and solution?
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