Tom Fremont

Steve-B, JohnC I get mine from COKER tire in the U.S.; they are sole source for many of the vintage tyres here. I'm getting some DUNLOP SP Aquajet V-rated in 185/80-15 from them for my concourse '250 with 200 BHP trick engine. It has the 3.7:1 differential though; with the XWX tires I have the 3.45:1. They are even more expensive but what isn't today...

On my 2nd set of XWX Made in Serbia; bought (5) the first time and (3) the second. Price went down about 25% before I bought the first set. Nothing like them for looks, feel and no TR will ever outrun them.

I've done over 140,000 miles with the unmodified auxiliary feed line. The rocker shaft doesn't wear at all and the oil pressure is still 65 psi @ 2000 rpm fully hot ( oil cooler with 'stat is fitted ). I just fitted another one to my trick engine with the wholehearted approval of my engine guru ( whose like in the US can be counted on the fingers ). I got the feed line kits from TRF, and don't know their source. The only problem I've had is sealing the banjo fitting to the head. According to my engine builder an extra copper washer is needed to keep the bolt from bottoming in the head ins

You'll have a line forming if you put them up for sale! I'd pay silly money for them, notwithstanding the passenger side mirror cannot be adjusted to be useful, only to look pretty. And I already have extras

The stem works either way round and the mirror can be fitted to either side of the stem as well. The black escutcheon isn't quite symmetrical however so may leave a witness mark if turned the other way. That was a !@#$% of a find on those mirrors!

If the doors are original the holes are already there

I was told many years ago by Darryl Uprichard of Racetorations that they set all their floats to 5mm. ( This must only apply to the brass type. ) I did this with my triples and it made a critical difference. Later I got a clear gauge to measure the fuel depth from the top of the well ( where the main tube screws in - remove to check ). I found that 5mm with 3-ring vintage Italian 40DCOE-18s this gives 27mm depth. Oddly, older 40DCOE-18s with brass shafts on another engine gives 27mm with a setting of 8mm. Such depth is the key to when the main systems enters the game, the higher the

This is a work of art in its own right and it's obvious with circa (20) sections welded together it's not commercially viable. Richard Good's " inability " to build it in stainless must mean " for an acceptable price ". From what I've seen on this thread the GOODPARTS design in coated mild steel is still the competitively priced best performance option. I would be quite surprised if he doesn't know whether the RHD cars will accommodate it, less surprised if they cannot. I have no financial interest and provide this link just FYI: https://www.goodparts.com/product-ca

6-3-1 pairing 1-6,2-5 and 3-4 gives them equal firing order spacing. Richard Good's version has equal length primaries and secondaries which he tested against Phoenix's version where they are apparently unequal and found a big difference in his favor. The downside is Richard " cannot build it in stainless " ostensibly due to the metal's relative reluctance to bend into the tight radius required for 1 & 6 cylinders where mild steel can. He has his " ceramic " coated in (3) different temperature ranges. I have experience with this on my trick engine with very high lift cam and triple DC