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Malcolm Clarke

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About Malcolm Clarke

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    http://www.graphicinnovations.com
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  • Location
    Prestwood Bucks

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  1. Hi Roger, Yes I've read your previous thread on the Q seals. And would be probably go down that route as a matter of course. I know you say it still leaked, but did they help? I havent got the top off yet, still at the chalk powder tracing stage.
  2. At this stage not 100% sure, but suspect the usual selector seals.
  3. About to try and attempt to trace the cause gearbox oil leaks. Question: Should there definately be a breather hole in the gearbox top cover. Seem to remember reading somewhere that a breather was not necessarily included if the box was mated to an A type overdrive (which has a breather on the casing)
  4. Both the old one and its replacement were refurb'd. And were both from the same supplier. The old one was fitted 21 years ago. But obviously the mileage was not phenominal. I'd have to check but I would imagine in the high 10's of thousand rather than the 100's.
  5. Update. Decided to replace the "useless" inner boots, partly because on further inspection I discovered that the nearside rear hub was loose, when I say loose I mean the flange assembly moved slightly relative to the yoke/stub axle. I assume therefore the keyway slot and the key itself were slowly wearing each other away. So new hub and uprated drive shaft fitted. Inevitably some stripped threads on the trailing arm, but resolved with helicoil inserts and UNF/UNC thread studs. Biggest headache I always find is removing the UJ's from the shaft yokes.
  6. How many of us continue to fit the large "floppy" drive shaft inner boot. ? When we first got the car they were missing. I susequently fitted new ones, and have continued to replace as necessary over the years, but begin to wonder if in practice they are really doing anything at all, and therefore are a waste of time.
  7. Actually I was in the process of pulling the box out. Got to the point of releasing the lower bolts when I discovered that it appears neither the bell housing or the back plate ever had a 3/8" alignment bolt at 8 oclock. And without drilling out existing hole would not ever take this "larger" size bolt. Then remembered reading that missalignment might cause the stckyness. ( I dont quite understand why, but there we are) Think I might try a bit of readjustment of alignment before struggling to remove the box completely.
  8. To clarify: My problem is I do not appear to have a hole at 8 oclock large enough to take a 3/8" alignment bolt. Not that I do not have a 3/8" bolt in "stock". (alignment or otherwise). ..................Just noticed that gearbox has CC stamped on it, not CP
  9. Hi, Suffering from the deaded sticky clutch when hot. Having looked at the forum suspect it might possibly be missalignment of the bellhousing to the engine back plate. I thought there should be 2 x 3/8" "alignment" bolts one at 2 oclock the other at 8 oclock. However no sign of the thicker 3/8" one at 8 oclock. Nor any sign of the back plate or bell housing ever having a hole large enough to accept this bigger bolt. (although the existing 5/16" bolt is a bit of a sloppy fit). All the holes are the same size accept the 2 oclock one and the starter hole bolts. Should all TR6 have this 8 oclock 3/8" bolt.? Not sure where to go from here. Drill 8 o clock hole to accept a 3.8" bolt. ? Loosen all bolts, nip up again, run engine for a bit, depress clutch a few times, and re tighten bolts in the hope of self-alignment,?
  10. I appologise for asking what is must be a stupid question............ When measuring toe in (1.6-3.2mm) does this refer to the measurment of each wheel. ie difference between front and rear faces of each individual wheel. Or does it refer to the total accumulative figure when measuring the distance between both wheel front and rear faces. In other words across the whole front end. I always thought it was each indivdual wheel. But for some reason suffering brain fade this morning.
  11. After 4 or so hours of pains takingly, mind boggling, careful sanding, have come to the conclusion that it might be cheaper in the long run to bin it and buy a new one. Just waiting for the pins and needles in my sanding arm to wear off. You live and learn.
  12. Just in the process of trying to strip the varnish on my TR6 dash panel prior to re-lacquering I assume it is two pack, as nothing seem to touch it. (now wish I had'nt started.... it wasnt that bad !) Any ideas as to a stripper up to the job of removing it.?
  13. As a previous owner back in the early 70's I would be interested to know the whereabouts of ALD114B (DVLA lists her as "taxed" but now green instead of the white during my ownership).
  14. Many thanks for your replies. I did wonder if that might have been the case. But wanted to double check before drilling holes in the hood frame for the dot fasteners.
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