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Malcolm Clarke

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Everything posted by Malcolm Clarke

  1. No the overdrive OD its self does not drop out. I was just surprised that the solenoid via the iso switches does.
  2. No it's not !!! It is an oblate spheroid. Sounds like something you would not want to catch. Or medication you would take to cure it.
  3. Funny how you learn something everyday. Had the car since 1998. Done some fairly major restoration work over the years. But for some reason have always thought that the overdrive (when selected ) remained engaged when shifting up or down 2-3-4. Not that it disengaged and then re-engaged at each shift. Next thing is some ones going to tell me the earth is round.
  4. I've been trying to get my head around this: Should the isolator switches disconnect momentarily on the shift from 2nd to 3rd gear. ? Obviously said shift is via the "neutral" plain of the gearbox selector.
  5. Hi Roger & Nigel, You have rather confirmed my concerns as to leak stop. Can see it potentially solving one problem and creating a far bigger one (as in us overdrive) I will also check out breather, as in is there one and is it able to. I have monitored the leak for a while, its not disasterous, more of a niggle, and plays on the mind a tad, if going any distance abroad. Whilst I have carried out many road side emergency repairs in odd parts of the continnog, topping up gearbox oil might be a bit tricky. Malcolm
  6. Oil drips from hole in the bottom of the bell housing, and is definitely gearbox rather than engine oil. Possibly talking complete twaddle. But as the drips continue long after the car has been run. I suspect leak is from the layshaft end cover gasket. Which I should imagine is below the oil fill level. Rather than the main shaft/pinion cover seal/gasket. Which I imagine is above the oil fill level. Just wondered if anybody had tried a leak stop "snake oil". And more importantly if their overdrive still functioned afterwards.
  7. TR6 Gearbox has a slight oil leak. Not bad enough to justify having the box out. Its just annoying. Has any body experience of stop leak oil additives. Slightly worried about possible effect on overdrive operation.
  8. Hi Roger, Yes I've read your previous thread on the Q seals. And would be probably go down that route as a matter of course. I know you say it still leaked, but did they help? I havent got the top off yet, still at the chalk powder tracing stage.
  9. At this stage not 100% sure, but suspect the usual selector seals.
  10. About to try and attempt to trace the cause gearbox oil leaks. Question: Should there definately be a breather hole in the gearbox top cover. Seem to remember reading somewhere that a breather was not necessarily included if the box was mated to an A type overdrive (which has a breather on the casing)
  11. Both the old one and its replacement were refurb'd. And were both from the same supplier. The old one was fitted 21 years ago. But obviously the mileage was not phenominal. I'd have to check but I would imagine in the high 10's of thousand rather than the 100's.
  12. Update. Decided to replace the "useless" inner boots, partly because on further inspection I discovered that the nearside rear hub was loose, when I say loose I mean the flange assembly moved slightly relative to the yoke/stub axle. I assume therefore the keyway slot and the key itself were slowly wearing each other away. So new hub and uprated drive shaft fitted. Inevitably some stripped threads on the trailing arm, but resolved with helicoil inserts and UNF/UNC thread studs. Biggest headache I always find is removing the UJ's from the shaft yokes.
  13. How many of us continue to fit the large "floppy" drive shaft inner boot. ? When we first got the car they were missing. I susequently fitted new ones, and have continued to replace as necessary over the years, but begin to wonder if in practice they are really doing anything at all, and therefore are a waste of time.
  14. Actually I was in the process of pulling the box out. Got to the point of releasing the lower bolts when I discovered that it appears neither the bell housing or the back plate ever had a 3/8" alignment bolt at 8 oclock. And without drilling out existing hole would not ever take this "larger" size bolt. Then remembered reading that missalignment might cause the stckyness. ( I dont quite understand why, but there we are) Think I might try a bit of readjustment of alignment before struggling to remove the box completely.
  15. To clarify: My problem is I do not appear to have a hole at 8 oclock large enough to take a 3/8" alignment bolt. Not that I do not have a 3/8" bolt in "stock". (alignment or otherwise). ..................Just noticed that gearbox has CC stamped on it, not CP
  16. Hi, Suffering from the deaded sticky clutch when hot. Having looked at the forum suspect it might possibly be missalignment of the bellhousing to the engine back plate. I thought there should be 2 x 3/8" "alignment" bolts one at 2 oclock the other at 8 oclock. However no sign of the thicker 3/8" one at 8 oclock. Nor any sign of the back plate or bell housing ever having a hole large enough to accept this bigger bolt. (although the existing 5/16" bolt is a bit of a sloppy fit). All the holes are the same size accept the 2 oclock one and the starter hole bolts. Should all TR6 have thi
  17. I appologise for asking what is must be a stupid question............ When measuring toe in (1.6-3.2mm) does this refer to the measurment of each wheel. ie difference between front and rear faces of each individual wheel. Or does it refer to the total accumulative figure when measuring the distance between both wheel front and rear faces. In other words across the whole front end. I always thought it was each indivdual wheel. But for some reason suffering brain fade this morning.
  18. After 4 or so hours of pains takingly, mind boggling, careful sanding, have come to the conclusion that it might be cheaper in the long run to bin it and buy a new one. Just waiting for the pins and needles in my sanding arm to wear off. You live and learn.
  19. Just in the process of trying to strip the varnish on my TR6 dash panel prior to re-lacquering I assume it is two pack, as nothing seem to touch it. (now wish I had'nt started.... it wasnt that bad !) Any ideas as to a stripper up to the job of removing it.?
  20. As a previous owner back in the early 70's I would be interested to know the whereabouts of ALD114B (DVLA lists her as "taxed" but now green instead of the white during my ownership).
  21. Many thanks for your replies. I did wonder if that might have been the case. But wanted to double check before drilling holes in the hood frame for the dot fasteners.
  22. I have just purchased a replacement mohair hood. The old one had a wide strip or flap centrally sown in to the hood with dot fasteners at either end, that wrapped around the rear and fwd transverse top hoops of the hood frame. (In other words dot fasteners were not mounted on the frame itself, just both sides of the hood strip) when the dot fasteners were popped together it formed a loop or pocket around the frame hoop and therefore stopped the hood ballooning at speed. The new hood, which has yet to have any dot fasteners applied, has only a narrow strip effectively half the width of
  23. About to replace Beige Mohair hood................. Any suggestions as to which manufacturer to go for.? Also slightly unsure as to whether to fit myself, or get it fitted professionally.
  24. Our TR6 has always suffered from rain water leaks. Not when its going along. Only went its standing still !. In that after a period of time we get water sitting in the groove of the door aperture rubber/felt inner draught excluder trim. This then trickles down on to the carpet. As its not often parked in the rain, its annoying rather than life threatening. But I have tried all sorts of things to get to the bottom of it. Including making new water curtains, and covering the voids behind the door cards properly with plastic sheet. But still no success. Any ideas. ?
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