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The time has come to replace the rear springs on the 2 (again). When I rebuilt the car I bought some 'new' secondhand ones, they were new but who supplied them originally is a mystery. They have got to the stage where there is virtually 'no spring' left in them. The car is often loaded with luggage and 2 people so the question is just how hard are the uprated ones. One thing is certain I want them to last longer than 6k miles. Any thoughts /suggestions would be appreciated. The fun will start when I get down to replace them, I couldn't shift the front pin when it was a chassis, yes a lot of heat was applied so I think I well have to jack up the body one side at a time to get them off and the new ones on. Should be fun.

Nigel (with TS952) Now in France

Edited by Nigel Lay
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Hi Nigel,

 

I had the same problem a few years ago, so replaced my rear springs with a pair of Revingtons' uprated ones and have had many fully laden trips with no problems since. They are excellent for fast driving.

 

Unladen however, they do tend to cause the rear end to bounce over rough surfaces and pot holes; BUT this only happens when I drive outside Surrey! :D:D

 

Cheers

Andrew

Edited by Andrew Smith
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I had uprated springs and dampers fitted all round when the car was rebuilt by TRGB. Have done over 10000 miles now, much of it on country roads including some typical rally roads, as well as a few long motorway trips. Ride is fine and ground clearance excellent. No problems with driver-only or two-up and fully laden.

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Guest colinTR2

Nigel

I fully agree with Andrew. I also fitted Revington's slightly uprated which are good. They keep the back end off the road but are a shade bouncy on that type of road. On a motorway you would never know.

Tony Jeanes next door fitted the Mo.. standards and within 2 years was reinforcing them, they were basically shot (far east versions?).

 

My trick with the front bushes (having done it several times) is to heat carefully until you can force the spring off by shredding/burning the rubber. Then carefully grind off the inner steel tube from the chassis pin. You can then refit as normal. I can't get the pins out either!! I raised the back end of the body, leaving the front bolts still tight to retain location.

best of luck

Colin

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Thanks for all your replies, uprated 'decent' ones are the way to go. Memories are coming back (takes a while at my age), the new/secondhand ones were Mo so should think they were from the same c**p batch that Colin's neighbour fitted. I bought them 8 years ago so they were supplied in 2001/2002. Thanks for the info on the repalcement Colin, I figured this is the way to go but it will be a job in the new year.

Nigel (with TS952)

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Thanks for all your replies, uprated 'decent' ones are the way to go. Memories are coming back (takes a while at my age), the new/secondhand ones were Mo so should think they were from the same c**p batch that Colin's neighbour fitted. I bought them 8 years ago so they were supplied in 2001/2002. Thanks for the info on the repalcement Colin, I figured this is the way to go but it will be a job in the new year.

Nigel (with TS952)

 

 

Good luck Nigel

You might like to refer to the attached which I wrote a few years ago and was kindly published in TRaction, it was a quiet news month!

All the best

Clive

Cleo's Op.doc

Cleo's Op.doc

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Good luck Nigel

You might like to refer to the attached which I wrote a few years ago and was kindly published in TRaction, it was a quiet news month!

All the best

Clive

 

 

It is always gratifying to find a way do something that cant be done. Good job (and write up) but I'm glad the body is off on mine. I might add, though, that I had some success (particularly with pins that have not too may years on them) at wailing at the pins with a slide hammer; it's threaded end screwed into the pin. Heat too, as I recall. Success probably unlikely after 50 years, though. Tom

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