Trperson Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 We took the rear shoes off awhile back. Putting them on today. Does this look right? The top of the left pad is around 10 oclock while the right is around 1. Don't laugh too much Just doesn't look right. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Looks OK to me, except your hold down pins are missing. Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Its OK as Graeme says. One leading and one trailing shoe. To ensure there is effective braking going forward the leading shoe pivots on the fixed abutment into the drum. In reverse motion the trailing shoe provides most of the friction. http://www.engineeringinspiration.co.uk/drumbrakes.html Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Hi unnamed TR person, You'll see most of us put a name or nick name up, it's just easier. You've about got the shoe position correct they just need balancing up, in the photo the left hand shoe is displaced down and the right hand shoe is displaced up, move each in the appropriate direction so that the brake cylinder "nose" is positioned central on the brake shoe "heel" do the same for both shoes they then should be more or less positioned central upon the brake backplate. Offer up the brake drum making sure the wheelstuds and the brake retaining screw holes are positioned correctly and "jiggle" the drum over the shoes which helps centralise them and onto the wheelstuds. Obviously make sure the brake shoes are wound back on adjusters etc to give the maximum amount of clearance between shoes and drums. Oh and don't forget to fit the "hold down" pins (as pointed out by Graeme )that go through the back plate and brake shoe and are retained by a dished cup with a hole in it for special pins, they help retain the shoes and stop them wandering about too far out of position. Also the photo shoes you haven't yet fitted the nylock nuts onto the hub retaining 5/16" UNF studs sticking through the backplate, use a torque wrench, they only need 16 lb ft and are easily stripped, check out the search facility for how to repair if needed. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Hi TRperson (come on give us a name), one of the six studs holding the hub has been removed. Anything sinister in this? It also looks as if not all the thread is left in the stud hole. Is there a problem? As Mick states be very careful when tightening the 5/16UNF nuts. If the stud hole is corroded then the stud will pull out. This is not the end of the world. Helicoils can be used to bring it all back to life. Ask us for details if this is the case. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
heckler Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 If you have purchased new pins , a major supplier is selling longer ones than original . One of mine came loose , pin disappeared left remaining bits inside probably due to reduced tension on spring. Traders response not very encouraging. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trperson Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 I hadn't put the pins back in because was wanting to make sure i had the shoes on right Graeme. Good tips on not tightening those 6 nuts too much. I found the missing stud when i took it apart so someone already stripped that one. Fixed it with a heli coil Jobs complete now, thanks. Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Good luck with that Robert. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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