riverstar Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 How easy or (or difficult) is it to replace the drive shaft bearing on the differential on a 4A i.e can it be done in situ or would I need to remove the diff and how easy is it to remove the bearing from its housing? Any advice/tips gratefully received Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 I would have thought that the job would be a lot easier with the diff out, there's only 16 bolts in total and you'll have removed 4 of them. If it's the inner bearing for the diff carrier, that's more serious, and for me a job for the professionals due to tolerances. However if it's the outer bearing; going by memory if you take off the bearing housing/carrier (4 bolts) pull out the shaft with housing/carrier, bearing and flange attached. There's about 6" of shaft inside the diff, check that will clear before removing, with diff in situ, and it may save removing the diff altogether (I can't picture how much room there is). Now the fun starts, remove the flange (that's easy) they're tightened to 110ft lbs and probably best undone with the diff in place. From memory I needed nigh on 15 tons to shift the bearing off the shaft, be careful not to make sh!t of the housing/carrier (or splines) as they are as rare as hen's teeth. Don't use a puller as you'll be levering off the otside of the carrier, do it in a press with plenty of support. Putting on the new bearing is a lot easier, put the shaft in the freezer overnight and pop the bearing in the oven for an hour before assembly. And fit new seals, you don't want to do it again as it's a bit nerve wracking!! If you have Roger Williams' book How To Restore TR4 it's all there on page 139 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 Hi Chris, doing it on the bench is the easier way but it can be dine from underneath with not too much hassle. Is it bearing #50 that you are concerned with - http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/axles-differentials/irs-rear-axle-differential-tr4a.html Uncouple the drive shaft. Remove the 4 x screws #52 - holding the flange on the diff. Pull out the half shaft. If you were going to replace the seal #49 then you would need to split the flanges with a special puller. Looking at the Moss parts page the bearing is on the free side of the half shaft - so it may pull off. Or it may be held in the diff body - extract just like that. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 The bearing and the seal is mounted on the outer side of the shaft, so you will have to break the taper of the output flange, if its anything like the wheel hub you will need a BIG press, the manual shows the correct fitment, it can be confusing sometimes with parts books. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 Hi John, when I replaced my seals I used a home made (blacksmith job) puller. It was very simple and came apart with no problem at all - vice and spanner job. TRying to find a puller could be fun though - contact your group leader Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 TRying to find a puller could be fun though - contact your group leader Roger That's why I used a press, no local group here Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted December 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 Thanks for the information. I asked because I has been suggested to me that there may be play in one of the bearings so before I bite the bullet and replace I need to make sure that they do in fact need replacing, how should I ascertain this? CV joints and new hubs were fitted 2000 miles ago Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 Hi Chris, I would be surprised that they would be worn unless you have done 100's x 000's mile or raced /rallied the car. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 Chris, firstly I would ask the person who said there could be play why he suspects there is and how did he check for play. Does the car present any symptoms for which you cannot determine a cause. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted January 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Chris, firstly I would ask the person who said there could be play why he suspects there is and how did he check for play. Does the car present any symptoms for which you cannot determine a cause. Chris Unfortunately I have lost contact with the guy who made the observation and it came out of a conversation not a physical examination. I know how to check the wheel bearings for play but how do I check the drive shaft bearing, do I just disconnect the UJ from the drive shaft and check for play and smooth rotation or are there other things I should be aware of? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 I did this job a couple of years ago on my 6, actually only wanted to replace the seals but had to split the bearing from the shaft to do so. I found that by bolting the two assemblies back to back and tightening up evenly one bearing came free. Then using sockets as spacers and reapeating, the other came free too. Pic as attached Hth Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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