kevj Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 (edited) Hi all. starting to look at removing rear wheel studs (studs threaded both ends). Any advice on easy removal,rather than dismantling more than I have to. Just one more thing, put car up on 2 post lift and couldn;t close door. Do I have too much flexing or is this quite normal, only a fraction away from closing properly. many thanks, kev Edited January 17, 2011 by kevj Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Hi all. starting to look at removing rear wheel studs (studs threaded both ends). Any advice on easy removal,rather than dismantling more than I have to. Just one more thing, put car up on 2 post lift and couldn;t close door. Do I have too much flexing or is this quite normal, only a fraction away from closing properly. Hi Kev, Quite normal to find that doors don't shut when the car is jacked up. The chassis does flex and the door shut is quite critical. Why do you want to remove the rear wheel studs? AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevj Posted January 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Hi Alan, Replacing wire wheels with minilites and existing studs too short. Thought about welding on wheelnut and using air gun (hobby compressor), using heat? Any suggestions, would think this was a common wheel swap so look forward to hearing alternatives. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Kev, To install these studs, they will have been screwed in from the from of the hub and then the rear of the stud should have been peened over to stop them unscrewing. When these were done in the factory, the peening over was done very neatly and it looked as though it were done with a number of blades in one go. If your's are original, you'll see what I mean. Studs replaced after the car was new won't be quite so neat. In order to remove the studs, you'll need to drill the back of the stud to ensure that they can be unscrewed without ruining the thread in the hub. Hopefully, the back of the stud won't have had someone trying to weld it/them into the hubs. This makes them an absolute bugger to remove. Good luck. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevj Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Thanks David, Looks like mine are original, very neatly fitted, but can you explain your second paragraph re "preening" and "blades" Job looks a bit more in depth than I was hoping but need to know how to do it properly. Cheers, Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hi Kev, be very careful how much you destroy before it is too late Have you got the correct replacement studs in your hand and visible to your naked eye - if not go no further How are your 'minilites' attached. Do they use parallel barrel nuts (extended nut that fits into the wheel) or a coned nut (that sits on the surface in a coned depression). If you have the 'barrel' nuts then the existing studs may be adequate. Measure up and see if you have at least 7/16" of grip thread engaged. If you have the 'cone' nuts then you are batting on a rather sticky wicket. Take the wheels back and get others. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevj Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 "be careful how much you destroy before its too late" not your problem Roger, is it? Only asking for advice on rear wheel stud removal, nothing more,nothing less. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 "be careful how much you destroy before its too late" not your problem Roger, is it? Only asking for advice on rear wheel stud removal, nothing more,nothing less. Think you have misjudged the tone of Roger's advice. Replacing the rear studs is a notorious ball ache that can lead to damage, if you can work around it by fitting wheels/nuts that can use the short stud that may be the preferred way to go. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Thats what Roger gave you Kev...advice, and good at that. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 "be careful how much you destroy before its too late" not your problem Roger, is it? Only asking for advice on rear wheel stud removal, nothing more,nothing less. Comment uncalled for. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graycow Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Measure up and see if you have at least 7/16" of grip thread engaged. If you have the 'cone' nuts then you are batting on a rather sticky wicket. Take the wheels back and get others. Good advice Roger. I would tend to say that you ideally need engagement of 1.5 times the stud diameter (i.e. 5/8 approx) which pretty much means that without barrel nuts you are as you say struggling. I'm actually poised to replace my rear studs this year and ditch the wires as I would like to tackle a few competitive events again and don't want a repeat of the problems previously experienced (twice!!) with wheels departing as a result of wire wheel adapter nuts unscrewing. I am tempted to replace the studs with mushroom headed ones fitted from the back. Anyone know what vehicle may provide a suitable stud for this purpose? Think it would require reaming out the thread and probably grinding a little off the mushroom head to ensure it clears the brakes etc. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Good advice Roger. I would tend to say that you ideally need engagement of 1.5 times the stud diameter (i.e. 5/8 approx) which pretty much means that without barrel nuts you are as you say struggling. I'm actually poised to replace my rear studs this year and ditch the wires as I would like to tackle a few competitive events again and don't want a repeat of the problems previously experienced (twice!!) with wheels departing as a result of wire wheel adapter nuts unscrewing. I am tempted to replace the studs with mushroom headed ones fitted from the back. Anyone know what vehicle may provide a suitable stud for this purpose? Think it would require reaming out the thread and probably grinding a little off the mushroom head to ensure it clears the brakes etc. Graham You could try TR4A-6 IRS rear studs for steel wheels or even the front studs from a TR4 for steel wheels. Also look at the supplier for studs and nuts. http://www.mistertee.co.uk/7.html Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Hazlewood Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Good suggestion given by Graycrow. It would be a much stronger solution for the replacement of studs ( drill out original stud holes and press new studs in from the back ) particularly if the car is being used for any sort of hard road use with wider wheels and sticky tyres or competition use because the strain on original studs can lead to them coming loose or at worst a wheel falling off. It has happened on a number of race cars and I have encountered the same problem myself. The original stud holes can be drilled out to accept a longer stud pressed in from the back and can then be welded in place. By doing this mod it becomes impossible for the studs to come loose as long as the wheel is tightened up to the correct torque. A good replacement is the TR6 front stud or if longer ones are required they can be obtained from the likes of a good race parts supplier like Demontweeks. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dazzer Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 All good advice on here. I've been through this exercise and can say the following. I didnt grind the peen off the back of the original studs, I just wound them out with a pair of stilsons... yes they do come off but I would recommeng grinding off as much of the peen as possible as it is much easier. I replaced them with new longer studs and peened them over... not very well it would seem and they came loose. I therefore peened them over further and put a spot of weld on them... they came loose again. I lastly had them drilled and TR6 type studs pressed in at TR Enterprises. Brilliant job, no problems since. Cheers Dazzer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Hazlewood Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Can I just add that it is quite an easy job to do at home with a sharp drill of the correct size a good eye, a steady hand with the addition of a good sturdy vice to hold the half shaft in. A pillar drill can also be set up and used. Don't forget to make sure you put the halfshafts back in the correct side of the axle they came out of or you will be taking them out again soon after when they brake and you will be doing the job all over again. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevj Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Ok, mission accomplished, but a b.....d of a job to remove rear studs. Wortwhile though, new wheels are on!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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