Kevin Warrington Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 This has got me stumped as well. After a long run, I;ve noticed that the rear nearside wheel on my 6 radiates heat. The spinner for the wire wheel is warm and the brake drum is very hot to the touch. Whereas the offside one is barely warm. The brakes were completely replaced last year as a result of laying the car up for a year or so and my first thought was that one side was binding. However, with the handbrake off and the car stood on the level, it offers almost no rolling resistance at all, so it doesn't seem as though the brakes are binding. The wheel doesn't appear to be loose in any way and there's no usual sound of worn out bearings (although I've posted another cry for help on a transmission type noise).. Any suggestions? Regards Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Hi Kevin, your options are limited on what is doing the heating. Firstly jack the offending wheel up and make sure that the brakes really aren't binding. 1st The hand brake is easy as that can backed off without affecting driving safety - give it a test drive and see what happens 2nd Are any other brakes or pipes getting hot causing the brake fluid or air to expand and applying offending brake 3rd Do the brakes need bleeding. 4th It is not uncommon for the wheel bearing to seize solid and start spinning on the shaft. This may feel smooth(ish) but as it is not lubricated it will get hot. Only a full dismantle will show this. Get a 2nd hand unit - not too dear!!! Don't let it run too long like this otherwise you may see a wheel overtake you one day. Best of luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMS Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Kevin Try jacking up the offending wheel, spin it, OK you advise it is free. Now operate the brakes a few times and see if it is still free. It is possible that a brake pipe / hose is operating as a partial one way valve and leaving that brake binding for a while after operation. After a short while the pressure releves itself and the wheel spins freely. Just a thought. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Kevin You obviously have an imbalance somewhere but how much heat are we talking here, can you comfortably touch it? Does it all get hot on a run without using the brakes? If they are seized, OK, but you can’t really check if the shoes are binding by pushing the car along the road! It could be nothing more than binding shoes but it could be more sinister; Jack the wheels off the ground & do some checks as Roger suggests. I’ve read your other post but at the moment can’t say I really connect the 2; do other parts of the drive train get hot, drive shaft UJ’s, diff, prop UJ’s etc. But that’s not to say they aren’t connected! I need to have my tea & think about it a bit more so will post back later! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EricTR6 Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 In my case Tim was right. Partially stuck brakes. With me the PDWA valve also gave a warning the pressure was not equally distributed. Brake bleeding helps, also "reset" the PDWA valve i.e. put the sensor in the middle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Warrington Posted May 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 This is a follow up to something I started in January. The car went to CTM this week to have this problem sorted - it did, indeed, turn out to be a collapsed flexible hose that was doing a wonderful impersonation of a non-return valve. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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