Dex Posted November 28, 2006 Report Share Posted November 28, 2006 Gents Has anyone any experience of cross drilling the release fork for extra security given the problems with the tapered pin? Is it recommended to cross drill the release fork as surely this weakens it? If it is recommended to be drilled, what size bolt would it be adviseable to fit and would it be best drilled as far away from the tapered pin hole as possible. regards Dex Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim_trinda Posted November 28, 2006 Report Share Posted November 28, 2006 Gents Has anyone any experience of cross drilling the release fork for extra security given the problems with the tapered pin? Is it recommended to cross drill the release fork as surely this weakens it? If it is recommended to be drilled, what size bolt would it be adviseable to fit and would it be best drilled as far away from the tapered pin hole as possible. regards Dex Dex Click here for information which used to be on the Buckeye website. Its now only available from the Web Archive and some pictures are missing. If its of interest and you would like the full article with all the pics I can send it to you if you PM me your email address. ==== Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted November 28, 2006 Report Share Posted November 28, 2006 Dex I prefer to use a roll pin rather than a bolt,a bolt before the nut is tightened is to some degree or another a loose fit in it's hole whereas a roll pin is or should be an interference fit all the way. With a bolt, if the taper pin fails there will be a very slight movement which will eventually shear the bolt. Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted November 28, 2006 Report Share Posted November 28, 2006 Been there, done that, got the T-shirt etc. in the course of 30+ years of continous ownership of a TR250. Not had the problem in decades, which I attribute to ensuring the stock pin seats tightly into the shaft; i.e. no detectable rock when assembled. This required in some cases filing off the corners of the square head on the underside so as to allow it to go deeper into the fork forging and thus engage its taper into the shaft instead of bottoming out prior Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 Dex I believe you asked me this in a previous thread, sorry I forgot to reply! I’d go with cross drilling for a roll pin as Ron suggests. Make sure you get the uprated taper pin; remove any burs from this & the hole & lap the pin so it’s a nice fit in the taper cross shaft hole. If it’s not a new shaft check the hole carefully for any damage or ovality, if there is any slack it will fail. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.