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Drain tap in block


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 I’m Looking to put a block drain tap on my recently acquired post CP50000 ‘72 TR6. 
 Moss supply 2 different types - the tap type which I would prefer to put on as easier to attach a drain tube/hose too (detailed as TR5, TR6 to CP50000)-  and the ‘butterfly’ type like the radiator drain tap (detailed as TR6 from  CP50001)

Does anyone know if the threads in the block pre & post CP50000 are the same - I think the early cars are 1/2” UNF ?

it would have thought they would machine the blocks the same - but if so why the different types of drain tap?

Thanks- jimt

 

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Yes 1/2” unf

Buy a short stainless steel head head screw and fit that with a sealing washer.

Wrap a plastic bag round the starter motor when you drain the block via the plug to stop the electrics getting soaked.

The A2 stainless screws I sourced are 1/2" unf 3/4" long thread - and they are too long.  I did think I would put a pile of washers under the screw head but decided that was a bodge too far, as in the future if I forgot to refit the washers I'd be in the effluent.

I have reduced them on the lathe to 7/16" thread length.  Without the sealing washer they screw in by finger force to full depth in my cylinder block, which has had the thread cleaned up.  I use a copper crush washer under the head.

What I bought https://www.kayfast.co.uk/view-product/UNF-Hexagon-Set-Screws-A2-Stainless-Steel

Experience tells us the modern repro brass drain taps do not always seal from new and need to be stripped and lapped to form a proper seal between the moving part and the screw in bit.   They also mix up the threads and it is not uncommon for a BSP threaded tap to be supplied when a UNF item is required.    Radiators tend to be BSP threaded.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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22 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Yes 1/2” unf

Buy a short stainless steel head head screw and fit that with a sealing washer.

Wrap a plastic bag round the starter motor when you drain the block via the plug to stop the electrics getting soaked ……..

Thanks for confirming the thread in the later blocks. 

Thanks for the suggestion but the reason I want to fit a tap is I want to avoid the coolant going everywhere by fitting a long tube to it when draining - whilst I have a lathe etc and could easily do as you suggest - whilst a cheaper solution it still doesn’t result in what I want to achieve.

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47 minutes ago, Z320 said:

Hi,

I made a UNF/BSP adapter to fit a small BSP ball valve with a fiber washer between valve and block

Ciao, Marco

AP1GczNoNvLvvmWojBbi-hICjuKuQqkPBNLBsZY8

AP1GczM4uc3sV_9h6c9fDWzY6TwTIZ_obq6iOPzl

Good solution.

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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Good solution.

+1

You can also buy the 1/2 unf to 1/4 bspp converters and a 1/4bspp tail fitting for just a few pounds if you want to use the ball valve style tap

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37 minutes ago, Z320 said:

not here at Germany :lol:

Ooh !! - Well easy enough to make if you have a screw cutting lathe with the correct change wheels and both thread form tools ;)

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