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3A clutch master cylinder.


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Hello

I need to get this cylinder out. I've got the push rod off, but it seems to me i need to take off the whole box surrounding both brake and clutch cylinders, in order to get at the lower bolt holding the cylinder on to the box.

Is this right or is there something i am missing?

 

Cheers

Dave 

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There is a square steel plate above the pedals inside the car that is held on by 4 self tapping screws.

Remove it and you can get at the master cylinder attachment bolts from inside the car, with a socket on an extension.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Ah ha, brilliant, thank you

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  • 2 weeks later...

just jumping on the back of this thread about clutch master cylinder (as I couldn't find anything else related) are the brake and clutch masters the same bore diameter? and are they the same as Land Rover series 2? I'm sure when I built mine there was quite a difference in price between the "badges" for the same products 

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The master cylinder for clutch and brake are both Girling CV type with a 3/4” bore.    Yes same as many other cars like the LandRover.    The push rod is unique in its length.   If buying a cheaper item there are a couple of things to check/note

Bore size.

Threaded pipe sizes.

Push rod length ( use your old one)

Where it was made and who by.   Crucial as there were some damn right dangerous ones around not long ago.  The only way you can confirm that is by stripping them and comparing the piston assemblies of a genuine to the repro.

If possible buy genuine Girling (NOS and fit new seals if required) or TVS Girling or TRW.

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7 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

The master cylinder for clutch and brake are both Girling CV type with a 3/4” bore.    Yes same as many other cars like the LandRover.    The push rod is unique in its length.   If buying a cheaper item there are a couple of things to check/note

Bore size.

Threaded pipe sizes.

Push rod length ( use your old one)

Where it was made and who by.   Crucial as there were some damn right dangerous ones around not long ago.  The only way you can confirm that is by stripping them and comparing the piston assemblies of a genuine to the repro.

If possible buy genuine Girling (NOS and fit new seals if required) or TVS Girling or TRW.

+1

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