RogerH Posted April 10 Report Share Posted April 10 Hi Folks, the OD Logic box that I make requires a 0ve pulse to operate. Any momentary ON switch will work - I use a press button switch - but I thought it would be nice to use the original TR4/4A /5/6 OD switch. Firstly the switch contacts need removing. Remove the roll pin that holds that switch arm in the body and then push the arm out of the body. Remove the cable and contact board (it just pulls off). Remove the Ball, spring & contact from the plastic body. Insert an Aluminium rod into the hole in the plastic body where the ball sat Drill and tap (M3) at the back end of the plastic body - this becomes the "more live" side of the switch. Drill and tap an M3 hole in the Ali body for the earth side of the switch. Drill a 3/32" hole into the top of the Aluminium/plastic body for a short length of 3/32" diameter copper wire. Insert the wire into the hole and then anchor it down with a M3 screw. The wires to the circuit board are attached to the switch with M3 ring terminals. There is a spring to ensure it all returns to off when released. The big plus is that it looks correct. ans is fairly easy to sort out. Today I modified a new looking switch and the build quality was spot on. Yesterday I modified two made by Bastuk and the quality was rubbish - usable but poorly built. WARNING These switches can only be used for switching the earth as the body is at the same potential as the contact. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 16 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Folks, the OD Logic box that I make requires a 0ve pulse to operate. Any momentary ON switch will work - I use a press button switch - but I thought it would be nice to use the original TR4/4A /5/6 OD switch. Firstly the switch contacts need removing. Remove the roll pin that holds that switch arm in the body and then push the arm out of the body. Remove the cable and contact board (it just pulls off). Remove the Ball, spring & contact from the plastic body. Insert an Aluminium rod into the hole in the plastic body where the ball sat Drill and tap (M3) at the back end of the plastic body - this becomes the "more live" side of the switch. Drill and tap an M3 hole in the Ali body for the earth side of the switch. Drill a 3/32" hole into the top of the Aluminium/plastic body for a short length of 3/32" diameter copper wire. Insert the wire into the hole and then anchor it down with a M3 screw. The wires to the circuit board are attached to the switch with M3 ring terminals. There is a spring to ensure it all returns to off when released. The big plus is that it looks correct. ans is fairly easy to sort out. Today I modified a new looking switch and the build quality was spot on. Yesterday I modified two made by Bastuk and the quality was rubbish - usable but poorly built. WARNING These switches can only be used for switching the earth as the body is at the same potential as the contact. Roger Well done Roger, thats much better than Revingtons idea of bunging a lump of rubber in the switch to stop it latching (I believe theyve dropped that idea now as too many failures.) Do you know the origin of the first switch you modified? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 11 Author Report Share Posted April 11 17 minutes ago, stuart said: Well done Roger, thats much better than Revingtons idea of bunging a lump of rubber in the switch to stop it latching (I believe theyve dropped that idea now as too many failures.) Do you know the origin of the first switch you modified? Stuart. Hi Stuart, I do not know where I sourced it (possibly after an appeal on here for unwanted spares) I do know where it went. (somebody on here) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted April 13 Report Share Posted April 13 Assuming that's my switch being modified, it came from J Duncan Lloyd (Classic Bits); thanks Roger David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted Tuesday at 07:52 PM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 07:52 PM Modified the TR3A overdrive switch to accept a more substantial passing contact switch to work with the logic controller from Roger. I had to grind a bit of the inside away inside the switch housing to accept the new switch assy. Also file a couple of location flats on the switch threaded stem. Then cut short the terminals of the switch and solder wires in place. Insulate with shrink sleeve. The waterproof cover comes with the switch and tidies the installation. Ready for fitment to brother's TR3A on Thursday. Uses switch https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285092553249 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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