CarreyRT Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 On 3/20/2024 at 5:10 AM, Nigel A said: CDD PAS is excellent, fitted about 3 years ago after several recommendations on here. Nigel Alright, we'll look into their kit. A friend mechanic recommended CDD Pas to my uncle as well when he took his Jeep for the mounting of the suspension from 4Wheelonline onto his Wrangler. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Squance Posted April 22 Author Report Share Posted April 22 On 3/22/2024 at 9:46 AM, Dave Squance said: today my power assisted steering will arrive.from CCD. I will write a report on this forum about fitting and how good it is with my 205 tyres. if I need advice, I’m sure Alistair will be able to help I have now fitted The classic car development power steering (hydraulic) to my TR6. I am very pleased with it. It was not too difficult to do apart from I have oil cooler and in order to put an electric fan in front of the radiator. I had to move the oil cooler further forward by about 40 mm, not major problem. With my 205 tires steering has become very easy at very low speeds. many thanks to Alistair and his team at classic Car developments. my next project is to try to find a system to make the clutch lighter. Any advice? Dave Squance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Macleesh Posted April 22 Report Share Posted April 22 20 minutes ago, Dave Squance said: I have now fitted The classic car development power steering (hydraulic) to my TR6. I am very pleased with it. It was not too difficult to do apart from I have oil cooler and in order to put an electric fan in front of the radiator. I had to move the oil cooler further forward by about 40 mm, not major problem. With my 205 tires steering has become very easy at very low speeds. many thanks to Alistair and his team at classic Car developments. my next project is to try to find a system to make the clutch lighter. Any advice? Dave Squance. There was a discussion recently about fitting a Servo on the clutch hydraulics, a forum search should flush it out. Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 22 Report Share Posted April 22 (edited) Hi Dave, use a 0.625" master cylinder and if needed adjustable push rods. If you know what clutch cover you are using you possibly could change it, but this is much more effort. The B&B "new design" needs more force, the B&B "old design" less. The Sachs 3082 100 142 is another good possibility. I wrote a post about some time ago But please don't focus on the cover, the 0.625“ master is more benefit. Ciao, Marco Edited April 22 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted April 22 Report Share Posted April 22 I have fitted the Cambridge annular clutch kit with all the hydraulics inside the bell housing and it works really well. Using a pedal stop so not to over-stroke it and the travel is much less and lighter it is a win,win. If it leaks a gearbox out I am afraid. Cambridge Motorsports have sold many and good feed back. If I had Marco's skill I would make the same. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 22 Report Share Posted April 22 Don't worry! Best results for common TR owners is to fit a 0.625" master. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 22 Report Share Posted April 22 52 minutes ago, harrytr5 said: I have fitted the Cambridge annular clutch kit with all the hydraulics inside the bell housing and it works really well. Using a pedal stop so not to over-stroke it and the travel is much less and lighter it is a win,win. If it leaks a gearbox out I am afraid. Cambridge Motorsports have sold many and good feed back. If I had Marco's skill I would make the same. Regards Harry Harry, instead of a pedal stop you should fit s smaller master cylinder diameter. You will be surpised how much a 0.700" or 0.625" master reduces the forces, if you not already fit it. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted April 23 Report Share Posted April 23 22 hours ago, Dave Squance said: It was not too difficult to do apart from I have oil cooler and in order to put an electric fan in front of the radiator. I had to move the oil cooler further forward by about 40 mm, not major problem. Why not ditch the oil cooler? Just one more thing to go wrong... I fitted one before bringing my 6 to Sydney 30-odd years ago but cooling was still marginal until I replaced the old sludged-up radiator with one that works. Then I removed the oil cooler when it split and dumped oil all over the road. Never had an overheating problem since then, even sitting stationary in traffic for half an hour on a day in 40C heat. I have an electric fan also BTW, but it was a puller and I had to change it to pusher to fit CDD's PAS! My 2¢ worth, JC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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