panel advice from the cogniscenti

[littlejim]

When you uncover patches like this in your panels during restoration do you learn to work round them or replace the panel?

 

I'm finding a few like this at the back, usually where two or three panels overlap and would have been spot welded together. The repairs are under an incredible depth of filler, so I am wondering whether new panels may mean better panel alignment, or whether I should take the 'if they can do it I can do it' approach.

 

Advice from those who have been there and done that will be gratefully accepted.

[Kiwifrog]

Jim,

 

Hard one to call, If they were structural panels I would say straight away to replave them as brazing is not a good idea on structural panels. As they look like non structural repairs then there is a choice to be made. If you are not rebuilding a concourse car and can get a reasonable finish with a thin skim of filler I would leave them, however if it takes 3 ton of filler and you end up with lumps like warts on the back of the car and you have the metalwork skills to do so I would repair them. If you use replacement panels then you will end up using filler anyway as the bends are not as sharp on the Repro panels and the fit can be terrible.

 

Cheers

 

Alan

[marvmul]

I think most people will repair this : you have to be patient, not skilled to repair this : use 2 or 3 pieces : most important is : don't make joints at the bends, but make them join 1/2" or more into a flat area.

Edited October 28, 2006 by marvmul

[littlejim]

Those who read the Buckeye triumph Magazine will have seen this shot of a Church noticeboard.

At the moment I feel that I am doing the opposite, turning my Triumph into a tragedy!

[stuart]

You could always clean it all back to shiny steel and then lead fill the shape back in. An acceptable and permanent repair.

Stuart.

[littlejim]

You could always clean it all back to shiny steel and then lead fill the shape back in. An acceptable and permanent repair.

Stuart.

 

thanks Stuart,

 

your filler special sounds like this one. The filler is all pink but has been done over brown coloured metal. Whoever did it was an artist, the shape with the paint over it is totally different to the shape of the metal underneath. The 3" deep shape at the front near the headlights made Rodin look like a bumbling amateur.

Is the lead readily available? I think I would prefer sculpting lead to F/G and already have considerable experience casting 'snapper bomb' sinkers. That must count for something. Won't be touching the engine for a long time, but if you use the lead fill do you have to get the head shaved to provide power for the extra weight?

[stuart]

Jim,

Frost 01706 658 619 do lead sticks for £35 plus post for 10 which should be enough to do all of your shell repairs or you can still obtain them from plumbers merchants but they tend to charge about £6.50 each. Surprisingly if you take all the rot out of most of the repairs and then lead fill there isnt that much extra weight. TRs along with most other cars of that era had a fair smattering of lead already around the shells anyway to either smooth out panel joins or to correct pressing imperfections. (XK150 Jaguars had about 140lbs of lead on their bodys!!) If you would like more detailed instruction on lead filling techniques PM me or ring on 01726 882680 weekdays. Hope this helps.

Stuart.

thanks Stuart,

 

your filler special sounds like this one. The filler is all pink but has been done over brown coloured metal. Whoever did it was an artist, the shape with the paint over it is totally different to the shape of the metal underneath. The 3" deep shape at the front near the headlights made Rodin look like a bumbling amateur.

Is the lead readily available? I think I would prefer sculpting lead to F/G and already have considerable experience casting 'snapper bomb' sinkers. That must count for something. Won't be touching the engine for a long time, but if you use the lead fill do you have to get the head shaved to provide power for the extra weight?

Edited October 28, 2006 by stuart

[Guest harry dent]

Repair it at all cost,s.The repros do not fit and look terrible.I was lucky in finding a new old stock Stanpart rear valance after a search which took nearly three years.It was expensive but oh so worth it.Good luck.

Regards Harry.

[littlejim]

Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice/encouragement.

Stuart, I've printed off your piccie and stuck it to the front of the boot as a model of what I'm after, and for inspiration.

[BrianC]

Seeing the neat job Stuart has done and the incredible work done by Tim at TRGB to replace the filler and amateur repairs on my TR3A, there is no substitute for doing it right first time. If you bodge it, you will never be truly happy with the car. I speak from experience - my car looked fine, but I knew that beauty was only skin-deep, so it's being done properly this time.

 

Unless you have experience or lots of time and patience to practise, I understand lead-loading is probably one of the most difficult skills to acquire and use - especially on vertical surfaces.

 

If you don't have the skills, farm it out - it could be cheaper in the long run.