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I didn't ask for a frame off but here I am...suspension questions


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Long story short, my stepfather is Welsh and grew up with Triumphs in Swansea.  In the past 2 years, I have procured a 1972 TR6 and a 1962 TR3B (TR4 engine).  The TR6 is at the shop for some serious repairs (bad mechanic in Florida I rescued my TR6 from). 

 

The TR3B is in my garage.  This is the car in question.

I am in the process of replacing all the bushings with superpro bushings from Moss.  I've read about camber issues.  I have purchased TRF's Magic Kit (RFK 1120) for the front suspension, plan to purchase new springs, and new shocks (Koni).  I have an ADDCO front and will get a rear Anti Sway Bar from ADDCO. 

I have half a mind to get the Revington geometry kit and have my steering box rebuilt by Macey's garage.  Should I also change out the steering arms for TR6 steering arms?  Just in its current state, I want to make sure I am taking advantage of it.

I do not desire to build a track car, merely a street performance.  I live in New Orleans for what it matters.

Thanks so much guys!

Edited by marmoset54
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The Revington steering idler modification is good too plus the replacement of the steering silentbloc and pin joints in the steering cross shaft.  Moss do a delrin conversion, Revington do Oilite bushed version.   ( we have both  on our 2 cars with little noticeable difference) 

Locating the rear leaf spring at the front eye bush with the Racetorations  kit is very helpful if combined with firmer rear shackle bushes.   I made my own from phosphor bronze washers at the front and MGB rear spring delrin bushes.

 

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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

The Revington steering idler modification is good too plus the replacement of the steering silentbloc and pin joints in the steering cross shaft.  Moss do a delrin conversion, Revington do Oilite bushed version.   ( we have both  on our 2 cars with little noticeable difference) 

Locating the rear leaf spring at the front eye bush with the Racetorations  kit is very helpful if combined with firmer rear shackle bushes.   I made my own from phosphor bronze washers at the front and MGB rear spring delrin bushes.

 

Would the steering idler be affected by the steering bush rebuild?  I’ve seen these delrins from both moss and Revington.

concerning the rear leaf spring eye, I got two new ones from moss.  Good enough?

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7 hours ago, marmoset54 said:

Would the steering idler be affected by the steering bush rebuild?  I’ve seen these delrins from both moss and Revington.

concerning the rear leaf spring eye, I got two new ones from moss.  Good enough?

Are you getting Macy’s to do your steering box?   Ask them about the bronze bushed idler.  Moss poly bushes in the rear shackle are good.   The original rubber worked fine but was a bit squidgy and allow the springs and axle to deflect sideways.

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On the subject of anti roll bar fitment…..there is a lot on here about their positives and negatives.  

Fitting a very light (9/16”) front bar only has a benefit for the driver who does not push it.

  A  3/4” or 7/8” front bar on its own induces serious understeer and you end up sawing with the steering wheel to go round corners,   Adding a rear bar I am told negates that issue but no doubt introduces other handling anomalies as you are transferring rolll to the front from the rear and roll to the rear from the front.   Giving you the sea saw motion of a Tesla.
 

Some on here propose no bars at all.    I have joined that camp and removed the single (TR6 sourced) front bar.   I do have much firmer front and rear springs though and have raised the rear tyre pressures.

Be aware the roll bars can dangle below the chassis reducing your ground clearance significantly.  Addco I think propose fitting their rear bar under the chassis.   Think speed humps here.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Are you getting Macy’s to do your steering box?   Ask them about the bronze bushed idler.  Moss poly bushes in the rear shackle are good.   The original rubber worked fine but was a bit squidgy and allow the springs and axle to deflect sideways.

Yep!  I’ll be using Maceys eventually for the work.  I’ll ask them about the idlers.

Thanks so much!  And those eye bushings will be from Moss.

Thanks!

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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

On the subject of anti roll bar fitment…..there is a lot on here about their positives and negatives.  

Fitting a very light (9/16”) front bar only has a benefit for the driver who does not push it.

  A  3/4” or 7/8” front bar on its own induces serious understeer and you end up sawing with the steering wheel to go round corners,   Adding a rear bar I am told negates that issue but no doubt introduces other handling anomalies as you are transferring rolll to the front from the rear and roll to the rear from the front.   Giving you the sea saw motion of a Tesla.
 

Some on here propose no bars at all.    I have joined that camp and removed the single (TR6 sourced) front bar.   I do have much firmer front and rear springs though and have raised the rear tyre pressures.

Be aware the roll bars can dangle below the chassis reducing your ground clearance significantly.  Addco I think propose fitting their rear bar under the chassis.   Think speed humps here.

I’ll need to do some more research into this.  As of now, my anti roll bar is SOMEWHERE in the garage…

Hidden like most things.

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4 minutes ago, Lebro said:

I have front & rear antiroll bars, & love the way it goes round corners !

Bob

What diameter bars and where does the front bar pick up on the wishbones?

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Mine are:

Front

7/8” arb

450lb springs

1.75 deg camber

3deg caster

Koni shocks 25% from soft. 

Rear

5/8” arb (adjustable)

160lb springs with location washers

Uprated lever arms. 

IMG_0850.jpeg

Edited by Drewmotty
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On 10/19/2023 at 12:42 PM, Lebro said:

I have front & rear antiroll bars, & love the way it goes round corners !

Bob

+1

Used the Revington kit. One big benefit is that by playing with the position of the rear arb link you can dial in neutrality/under steer or oversteer to your liking.

 

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post-12009-0-52683700-1531411483_thumb.jpgpost-12009-0-22732800-1531411522_thumb.jpgpost-12009-0-95430300-1531506582_thumb.jpg

On 10/19/2023 at 12:47 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

What diameter bars and where does the front bar pick up on the wishbones?

22mm dia front, 16mm dia rear.   Both from TR shop, so probably both Bastuk

   8c04b3c6-131f-4dee-a7e4-3ae534c1e911.thumb.jpg.f6664b814bc88c535105fd1da34b7bad.jpg  663e78b8-2a90-4406-9ff9-b59363842c18.thumb.jpg.9b93c26c74aa8d7d1f6dc09857258f6a.jpg Click on to enlarge

Front mounting was straight forward, rear was less so.

post-12009-0-76823700-1531506598_thumb.jpg post-12009-0-72073300-1531411544_thumb.jpg post-12009-0-40424400-1531411473_thumb.jpg post-12009-0-92288900-1531411513_thumb.jpg post-12009-0-49456500-1531411531_thumb.jpg post-12009-0-16439400-1531411493_thumb.jpg post-12009-0-11780800-1531411502_thumb.jpg

Had to re-shape the pipe on the rear silencer to avoid the ARB, & decided the proposed mounting of the links to the spring plate was not strong enough, so changed that also. Other modifications shown above.

Bob

Edited by Lebro
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