phil Dean Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 So I have the new top and bottom pulley for thin fan belt conversion all fitted torqued up but still can't get the thin belt between the fan extension shaft for the fan and the steering shaft!!! There is a small ruler thickness between the 2 off them.!! I think means the engine mounts have collapsed. Can anybody give me an answer on how to change them. TRGB said its not difficult support the gearbox change one side at a time jacking the engine up but didn't really say were to jack the engine up. Also do you have to take front wheels of to get at the nut on bolt that goes though the chassis. My engine mounts are the rectangular type. Any suggestions as usually gratefully received. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 Hi Phil forget the rectangular mounts as the rubber is iffy I use these LandRover mounts LandRover engine mounts - www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk Part # NRC2054 The studs are M8 Put the jack under the front of the engine to one side. Replace one mount then jack the other side. Wheels off should make it easier. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phil Dean Posted October 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 Thanks Roger but we’re on the engine are you talking about the sump flange so you know you are up against something hard like the bottom of the block Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 Hi Phil Under the sump. Use a piece of wood to spread the load Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 Lift as close as possible to the front of the sump using a piece of wood as wide as the sump. Like that you are lifting on three of the ‘walls’ of the sump. Lift just high enough to be able to remove the old engine mounts and not strain the gearbox mounts. Don’t forget to put the earthing strap back! Not done this on a 4/4A but on my 3A it was relatively simple but required the fingers and arms of an octopus. james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
keith1948 Posted October 14, 2023 Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 Hi Phil I made my own version of this device that Machine Mart sell. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cec500ds-dual-hook-enginegearbox-suppo/ It sits in the channels each side of the engine bay. I use the lifting eye on front nearside of engine one side and a rope around the exhaust manifold the other. A couple of threaded eye bolts from Screwfix instead of the two threaded screws. Works fine. I can use the same device for holding up the rear of the engine during gearbox removal. I don't like jacking the sump. If you do then make sure the sump bolts are checked for tightness because chances are you will compress the gasket a bit. I have in the past made something to fit over the bottom of the front engine plate that I could get a bottle jack on but wasn't entirely happy with that. I used the round type mounts and was able to raise the engine a bit at the front by using steel spacing washers. For these I 'repurposed' the old round engine mounts, removing the steel 'bits' to make the washers. You can cut the rubber apart with a saw, knock out the threaded stud and hey presto you have a thick spacer washer same diameter as the round mounts. I have tried both round and square and I think the round ones seemed easier to fit. Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phil Dean Posted October 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 Thanks Keith yes I did think about using a engine steady on the top might have a word with my mate I think he might have one. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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